91diesel

I did a 1KZ diesel swap and want to lower the stall in the automatic (I can't just put a manual in because of the bell housing, or believe me, I would!). I had a TC shop do up a converter for me, but after I put it in there is almost no change. The converter feels like it has a little more 'traction' at low speeds and small throttle openings, but it still stalls at 2100rpm instead of the 1400-1500rpm I specified. The TC guy says that it must be something in the tranny doing that. Does anyone know?

Ed H.

everything i have ever heard to do with stall is converter controlled and line pressure controlled (to lock up the converter at low rpms), the only thing behind the converter is clutches and those dont adjust or atleast they shouldnt.

I would suggest maybe looking at some kind of diesel forum for domestic trucks i know they have a lot of problems keeping the converted locked at low rpms, i have seen kits to eliminate this problem for dodges and chevy's

I could be totally off to so take it for what its worth. I know i am mixing mac and cheese with sushi here.

Blizzard

Do you need a manual bellhousing for the 1KZ-T? I did the opposite swap, put an auto behind my 1KZ-T (Stock was manual).

I've never understood the TC stall speed thing. What effect would you get if you get the 1500rpm stall speed you wanted?

David

91diesel

Yes, I need the manual BH for a 1KZ. How much! (need and can get are two different things!)

If I could get the 1500rpm stall, the truck would get rid of a lot of mushiness and would get better mpg around town, and lower transmission temps! what's not to like? I found a guy that can actually do it at sun coast converters, he took one apart and really looked at it. He said for $500 he could lower it. It would take some machining to the stator along with 'bending' the fins/vanes, hence the higher cost. Unfortunately I already spent the money on the one that didn't work, one of those times of you live and learn.
Why did you go to the auto???? everyone here wants a manual!

Blizzard

Hello,

I did the auto swap because I always liked the auto trannies... My truck is also dual purpose and I wanted it to be capable of slow wheeling and also be better in sand driving, and the auto is far superior with that.

My auto is quite fast, but I don't have any stock ECU, I've a SupraStick controller and shimmed accumulators for increase in the line pressure (Faster shifts and more realibility) and also I'm able of drive it like a manual but without clutch, just with paddles...

If you want to do a manual conversion you'll need the bellhousing, the flywheel (That weights a ton!) and the clutch parts. 3.0TD clutch kits aren't cheap...

David

bigt

HERES I LINK THAT LETS YOU CONTROL your auto like a manual i want one!
http://www.awshifting.com/index.html
you can lockup in any gear..

i love my auto in my surf.. all my others yotas were manuals..
I LOVE the auto.. and would love it even more if i wheeled with it!

91diesel

How do you shim the accumulators in the valve body/transmission? I'm assuming this is something I could do.. I'd love to see how this is done, and I'll post a write up on it.
I know what I need for a manual conversion, and how much work it would be, which is why I've resigned myself to the auto, unless maybe I win the lottery!

Blizzard

I followed this post.

Altought the A340 is a bit different of the A343F it's the same thing. I put 6mm shims I made in the lathe.

http://www.supraforums.com/forum/sho...d.php?t=267655



Also clamped the throttle cable in the max position. Now the shifts are more noticiable but nothing unconfortable.

David

idayota

wow, that thread on supraforums is super helpful. i've been lurking over there for some time and hadn't run across this one yet. very good thread! should be a sticky on yotatech!