1st Gen P/U with OM617.951
More vid? lol.
06-05-2011, 09:41 PM
#65
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well i'm trying to do everything right and i'm on a time crunch. i started the actual swap 9 days ago and i have 5 days until i take it on a 250 mile trip with my boat and a bunch of gear over the cascade pass. so i hope all the "pro" work is going to pay off for me. but thanks for all the positive criticism! makes me want to post more! and chef, i will have a driveby turbo spool video for ya soon.
06-06-2011, 07:31 PM
#66
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so i wired in the tach and picked up my 1.5" tubing for my radiator piping and got my radiator that came out of a 71 K20 350 truck. it's huge! got a couple fans to put on it and should be buttoned up either tomorrow or wednesday. i'll take more pics/video tomorrow
07-14-2011, 06:17 AM
#67
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Tach
I have the tach and tach amp setup. Hod doses the tach get wired up is it as simple as 12v somewhere and connecting like colored wires? I couldent trace the wires through the fire wall but i have the tach and tach amp with 10" pig tails. I see that the wires from the tach amp to crank sensor on the front of the motor straight forward black and white. Any help would be awesome.
07-14-2011, 06:43 AM
#68
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there's a connector on the crank sensor that plugs into the tach amp. then you need keyed power to both the amp and tach itself. i will find wire colors today when i'm at work. then there is the signal wire which goes from the amp to the tach (i believe it is brown.) I'll double check later today.
07-15-2011, 09:04 AM
#69
Nice improv, mista! lol.(or, well, just digging out the 'solution'!)
Just thought I'd mention, I saw an 87 SAS rig the other day with a Vortec V8 in it...Supercharged, ..... SICK! lol. Yeah, but one thing, ..... he aint getting no 30+MPG's! lol.
Keep up the good work, Truckman
Just thought I'd mention, I saw an 87 SAS rig the other day with a Vortec V8 in it...Supercharged, ..... SICK! lol. Yeah, but one thing, ..... he aint getting no 30+MPG's! lol.
Keep up the good work, Truckman
07-15-2011, 01:45 PM
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there's a connector on the crank sensor that plugs into the tach amp. then you need keyed power to both the amp and tach itself. i will find wire colors today when i'm at work. then there is the signal wire which goes from the amp to the tach (i believe it is brown.) I'll double check later today.
Awesome thanks. That sounds straight forward. Im going to pull the stuff out tonight. Its hard to get advice about this stuff bacause only a hand full of poeople are doing the swap and sharing info. I was showing the truck to a guy then other day who was thinking about putting one in his truck, after i told him most of what he needed to know /buy i was thinking "Dam i wish i knew this when i started, could have saved a lot of money." Anyway the build looks awesome and good luck
07-16-2011, 06:28 PM
#72
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for those of you interested in doing this swap, don't put it in front of a G52. I killed mine 4 days ago and made a banzai run from bellingham to spokane today to get a R151F. I don't know how the W56 would have faired but i was certain i didn't want to do this again. got a good used one from a guy off of pirate4x4. and 4 hrs before i left on my cross state journey, i was offered another R151F with bellhousing and transfer case. so if anybody on this side of the mountains needs one, i know where a good used one is! 
07-29-2011, 11:27 AM
#74
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Hows the truck running? get that trans in yet? Whats are your thought so far. Ive run about 4 tanks through the motor so far and im intrested to hear what your thoughts are so far.
08-01-2011, 10:36 PM
#75
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I read through sokoji's thread, and studied your pics more carefully, trying to figure out engine and radiator fitment issues. I don't have the skills to modify a Benz hood, and for my camper project, I can't put a radiator in the back. On the other hand, I won't be lifting anything much if at all, and probably no need for high-steer.
For vertical clearance, can you clarify what on your truck is lifted and by how much, and which pics above are with it on the ground, or the frame on stands, or what?
It also occurred to me that a lot of German engines of the period (Benz and BMW, anyway) are slanted to one side. There seems to be tons of room on either side of the OM; suppose I made my own trans adapter plate and motormounts, and installed the engine canted 30* to starboard (would help with the oilpan not hitting the diff, too)? Do you think it could take it, as far as oil return and other issues are concerned?
For longitudinal clearance, it looks like there's an inch or two left to move the engine back, if you modified the driveshafts and cut out the shifter holes further back. Is this more trouble than it sounds?
What do you think of putting the rad above the cab? The camper enclosure I'll be building will include a smaller version of a cab-over sleeping compartment, which won't be used for sleeping, just miscellaneous storage that can happen elsewhere.
For vertical clearance, can you clarify what on your truck is lifted and by how much, and which pics above are with it on the ground, or the frame on stands, or what?
It also occurred to me that a lot of German engines of the period (Benz and BMW, anyway) are slanted to one side. There seems to be tons of room on either side of the OM; suppose I made my own trans adapter plate and motormounts, and installed the engine canted 30* to starboard (would help with the oilpan not hitting the diff, too)? Do you think it could take it, as far as oil return and other issues are concerned?
For longitudinal clearance, it looks like there's an inch or two left to move the engine back, if you modified the driveshafts and cut out the shifter holes further back. Is this more trouble than it sounds?
What do you think of putting the rad above the cab? The camper enclosure I'll be building will include a smaller version of a cab-over sleeping compartment, which won't be used for sleeping, just miscellaneous storage that can happen elsewhere.
08-12-2011, 02:50 PM
#77
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how are you getting 20psi boost?
I got a call into 4x4 labs foe an adapter
looking for a good running 300sd, want to pump up the noost before I swap motor
on your swap, do you need a fuel pump or is this like a toy diesel where the pump on motor does it all?
just researching this motor, & seems far better then a 2l or 1kz
parts everywhere
cars everywhere
might be most reliable diesel in the world too
any advice on what to look for when I look at a car,they rattle so much how do you know nothing is wrong? lol
08-14-2011, 12:22 PM
#78
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1st cool write up !
how are you getting 20psi boost?
I got a call into 4x4 labs foe an adapter
looking for a good running 300sd, want to pump up the noost before I swap motor
on your swap, do you need a fuel pump or is this like a toy diesel where the pump on motor does it all?
just researching this motor, & seems far better then a 2l or 1kz
parts everywhere
cars everywhere
might be most reliable diesel in the world too
any advice on what to look for when I look at a car,they rattle so much how do you know nothing is wrong? lol
how are you getting 20psi boost?
I got a call into 4x4 labs foe an adapter
looking for a good running 300sd, want to pump up the noost before I swap motor
on your swap, do you need a fuel pump or is this like a toy diesel where the pump on motor does it all?
just researching this motor, & seems far better then a 2l or 1kz
parts everywhere
cars everywhere
might be most reliable diesel in the world too
any advice on what to look for when I look at a car,they rattle so much how do you know nothing is wrong? lol
The fuel pump on the motor doses all the work
