CitrusTheDragon

Does anyone know the size difference between the 22re, 3.0, and 3.4? How far across are they?

DeathCougar

iTrader: (23)

In reference to what? Radiator? Fan blade? etc

theMonch

Also, there are 2 different versions of the 3.0 fan, so you need to be very specific as to what you are wanting to know.

DeathCougar

iTrader: (23)

This is true, but the only difference between them is the ring around the 88-92 fan. The diameters are the same regardless.

CitrusTheDragon

i was wondering the fan and the rad

DeathCougar

iTrader: (23)

22RE fans are very small. The only fan you can use is the 3.0 Fan. The 3.4 fan could be used, if you don't run a shroud.

3.4 fan is about 2" wider/taller than the 3.0 fan

CitrusTheDragon

roughly how many inches are the 3.0 fans? I have a 19.25 e fan I am going to try to match up to the v6 shroud

DeathCougar

iTrader: (23)

I would have to measure it, I am unsure. My 4Runner is about 60 miles away from me right now. Anyone else chime in?

mt_goat

I would not use the 3.0 fan with the outer ring. Those have a bad habit of exploding at high rpms with lots of collateral damage. I'd use a 3.4 fan or an e-fan, I've tried both and now use a Taurus fan.

slacker

iTrader: (1)

just to let people know .. Precision 4x4 center (toyotafiberglass.com) offers an excellent rad replacement .

brass and copper , complete dimentions measure , 2 3/4 core" X 22.5" X 22.5" accepts a 22re or 3.0 L shroud
excellent cooling charistics .. I have one in my /83 Trekker , and it's perfect .
with a electric fan





davids swap


Our Price to the lower 48 , including shipping $289.00 (business addresses only)
Canada - $299.00


basically EXCELLENT for ANY engine swap into a toyota truck ...
currently 12 in stock
watch our vendor area for launch of our new Precision 4x4 Center web site

I have better pics , and will post asap

.

CitrusTheDragon

you seem a little one sided aput this company almost like you own it

slacker

iTrader: (1)

what can I say .. I'm a little bias .. + I think I'm the luckiest guy in the world

it is a great deal though .. your "Radiator Barn" sells theres for $343.00 + freight , how could you not buy it from us ? .. supporting a yotatech vendor , and getting a super deal


.

CitrusTheDragon

that is a killer price

77RogueRunner

Little late but here's setup: 2 10" Proform fans pushing 1100 cfm each. Painted sheetmetal shroud soon will be stainless, mounts to factory shroud location. This pic is of the radiator side....





Powered through a relay that is switched on by either an OEM thermo switch at 196* on and 185* off (my jamnut bung mod) or a manual override on the dash...



Works well, never seen my temps above 205 on my scan tool. Also cools my intake tube and intake temps as observed on my scan tool....

Cole Brooks

Im looking for some feedback please as to what the core thickness is of the 3L "stock replacement" everyone seems to be using.

The brand new stock replacement I bought from Napa (p/n 2272) is over an inch thinner than the brass-tanked radiator I replaced, and Im thinking thats why I cant keep engine temps below 215 deg.

I have tried the 3L fan and shroud and also the 3.4L fan with custom shroud and neither combination makes a difference.

Thanks in advance

theMonch

Elaborate on the problem a little and I think I might be able to help.

Under what conditions are you getting the 215 degrees? Slow crawling in the woods, daily driving on the highway, etc.

Also what is your rig? 3.4 swapped? 3vze stock? auto, manual?

Regardless, I'm surprised to hear of the rad core size difference. My rockauto "stock replacement was relatively the same size, just was different engineering (newer and better tech and materials)

Other than the fact that it was made to fit a wider range of applications, it was relatiely the same. By wider range, it was setup for both auto or manuals, where my stocker was manual only.

Cole Brooks

Thanks Monch

2nd gen 4runner, 3.4L swapped from 2000 Tacoma. manual trans

From a cold start the engine will warm to about 200*F. A mellow 5 min cruise trough the hood and creeps up to about 210. Brief drive at good speed and it gets to about 215 before I shut it down.

Brand new 180* thermostat, radiator, water pump, hoses. Cooling system was bled properly with a large funnel reservoir. Doesnt matter which fan and shroud combo, same results...

Brand new autometer temp sender mounted at engine coolant outlet.

This stock replacement with plastic tanks and aluminum fins is only about an inch thick core where the old beat up brass tank one I replaced was double that.

Bottom line is I dont think this "stock replacement" has the balls, but curious to know if other people have had this problem.

theMonch

Cool. I unfortunately dont have my OEM rad around anymore to compare the two, but I am pretty sure the core thinknesses were about the same. i can tell you that before I put a proper shroud on mine it was running similarly hot. Once the shroud was on there the temps dropped considerably.

Maybe stop by another auto parts shop and see what they have for your application and check how thick the cores are on those.

Cole Brooks

Update….
Installed a new, all aluminum stock replacement 2-row radiator. After bleeding, steady state temperatures still above 200 when idling in the driveway, cruising 2nd gear at 25 mph, or 50 mph.

Tested and installed a second thermostat to replace the already new unit. Oriented the thermostat with the jiggle valve in the 12 o’clock position. Bled the system, same result. Below is a picture of the funnel reservoir used to bleed air.





Pretty dang sure Im getting coolant flow because the heater is blowing hot, and radiator gets too hot to touch. Also I can see fine sediment in the troughs of the cooling fins inside the radiator, which tells me the coolant from the block is getting to the radiator. Still would like to verify Im getting the proper amount of fluid flow. Does anyone have a suggestion for a flow test?

Also correlated the aftermarket temperature gauge to the factory temperature sender via the OBDII/scanner. Gauge reads +/- 2 degrees.
Once again, brand new water pump, 2 mechanical fans, 2 new radiators, all new hoses, 2 new thermostats (180 degree), etc. Engine is an unmolested junkyard ’00, 100k miles.

If 200+ is where the engine wants to operate, I want to get it lower. Im going to try and procure a 160 degree thermostat and see if it helps. Friends suggested I pull the thermostat completely in exchange for a restrictor plate to govern flow rate, but I disagreed because this engine was engineered to use a thermostat…

Does anyone have any suggestions? Im willing to try just about anything…

theMonch

Well, from what you have said, I am pretty much at a loss as well. Since you ar echecking temps with 2 different devices (the stock temp sender/gauge via OBD2, and the aftermarket autometer with seperate gauge) We can assume that the temps are actually what your readings are telling you.

I couldn't imagine flow being a problem because when the waterpump wears out, its not like it flows less, the bearings just go.

The only thing I can think of is the fan clutch is shot. Even at cruising speed, if the fan clutch isn't working properly. it will restrict air flow through the radiator. And absolutely will effect parked cooling.

Other than that, the type of coolant, and mixture will also make a difference some times. But I think your problem is too extreme to be just a coolant type/mixture problem.