3.4 Swaps The 3.4 V6 Toyota engine

NEED Motor to Trans Mounting Help!!

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Old 09-24-2010, 03:13 PM
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NEED Motor to Trans Mounting Help!!

I have a 94 Toyota Pickup 3.0 Auto 2wd swap to a 01 3.4 2wd Auto.

Been tryin all day to get the motor to mount up to the trans.

Any helpful tips or tricks?
I've been moving the hoist up and down to slide the motor in and jackin the tranny up and down to find the the sweet spot, yet no luck.

Any help would be awesome!
Old 09-24-2010, 03:36 PM
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you are using the 3.4 motor and the trans that came with it right? not the 3.0 trans?
Old 09-24-2010, 03:41 PM
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that shouldn't matter. I thought auto's were easy. or do you mean the bolt holes are lining up?
Old 09-24-2010, 03:46 PM
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Auto's are not always easy. Sometimes Ill play with jacking the front of the motor up to get the angle....you using a floor jack or a tranny jack?

Its usually all about angle....take it back down and make sure the dowels are where they are supposed to be and not half pulled out...that could jam you up...if it were a manual trans motor...there could be a pilot bearing in the back of the crank still....makes it impossible to put an auto in that way....


hold it......are you making sure the torque converter bolts are going through the flexplate? the tc needs to be lined up with the flexplate to slip up there....
Old 09-24-2010, 03:48 PM
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with the manuals you keep it in gear, and turn the output shaft a little, and it pops right in. But isn't it with the autos, you have the torque converter on and then that bolts to the flex plate is all? or do you bolt the torque converter on first, and then put the tranny on. Sorry never put an auto in before, only manual.
Old 09-24-2010, 03:52 PM
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torque converter slips on trans shaft......it needs to seat...so you have to move it around and get it to go as far back on shaft as you can...you have to "feel" it. He may not have tc seated all the way.

So yes slide on tc....get it seated....then trans and tc go up together...tc bolts line up with bolt holes on flexplate....slip trans up and in...should fit flush...then bolt it up....then bolt tc bolts....
Old 09-24-2010, 03:57 PM
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Make sure the torque converter is double seated...ie it has to click down TWICE to be in correctly. If not, you WILL break the front pump ears.
Old 09-24-2010, 04:04 PM
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Unfortunately....I have way to much auto trans experience...

Ive killed every ford 4r75w I have driven.
Old 09-24-2010, 04:40 PM
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wait I'm confused.. a lot of responses haha.
3.0 auto tranny and 3.4 motor utilizing the 3.0 torque converter.

torque converter is on flywheel and that's how I'm trying to install it?..right?
I've been trying to hoist the motor up and down and the tranny as well to the highest point I just can't quiet get the motor to slip al the way onto the tranny.
Old 09-24-2010, 04:41 PM
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No....torque converter goes on trans first....
Old 09-24-2010, 04:42 PM
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Slide tc (torque converter) onto trans shaft...make sure it seats....takes 2 clicks...rotate it...push it back onto the trans as much as you can....then put trans in...lining tc up with holes in flywheel....
Old 09-24-2010, 04:48 PM
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Generic pic....\



tc goes on the shaft....then tranny goes up and in. see the bolts on the tc? sticking out....line those up with holes on flexplate....you will only be able to put on one nut at a time....then rotate the engine with the crank pulley bolt...till the next tc bolt rotates around to put another nut on...and so forth...
Old 09-24-2010, 05:19 PM
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get some bolts and cut the heads off and screw into the motor to act as guides.

Cut a slot so you can use a flat screw driver to get them out.

Old 09-24-2010, 05:33 PM
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The problem is not the bolts acting as guides or any of that.

The WHOLE problem is him installing the converter on the flexplate FIRST, then trying to slide it together. It can't be installed that way. You have to seat it into the trans FIRST, then bolt it to the flywheel.

And don't forget you have to fill the torque converter FULL of ATF first.
Old 09-24-2010, 06:21 PM
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Ok that's what I thought.
But on my torque converter the bolts don't stick out of it you place the bolt from the inside of the fly wheel closer to the motor and the torque converter has built in bungs.

I'm not at home right now but once the torque coverter is competely seated on the shaft does the fly wheel stick out of the bell housing enough to bolt up to the torque converter spin it to do one at a time?

sorry for asking and not looking I'm out of town and its bothering me and I wanna make sure I have a solid plan of attack when I get home tommorow.
Old 09-24-2010, 06:24 PM
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flywheel stays bolted to motor, you will put just the torque converter on the tranny....there will be room. I promise.
Old 09-24-2010, 06:41 PM
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Yeah I know the flywheel stays on the motor.

I was just makin sure there room to bolt the tc to the flywheel once the tc is fully seated.

Thanks for your guys help..is bolting the motor to the tranny going to be a issue?

I seen a lot of people do what like the guy above posted about cutting the heads off and making it screwdriver capable?
Old 09-24-2010, 07:08 PM
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It took me 4 MONTHS(!!!!!) to figure out that you cant mount the engine to the tranny with the tc attatched. Id get it in every time but it would never go that last 1/2 inch. I ended up finding out I was doing it wrong, took it all apart, put the tc on the input shaft and figured it all out in 10 minutes!

Of course, what I didnt know was that I had destroyed the input shaft bushing and within 200 miles the thing pissed fluid out from the pump and I had to take it all apart again and rebuild the front pump.



1: So, take off the tc and mount it to the input shaft.

2: Line up the two tang deep inside the tranny along the shaft with the two slots cut into the tc shaft. At first it will go on easy but then you need to then get it to slide another 1+ inch. You will need to wiggle and force this somewhat as the splines become a tight fit.

3: Check to make sure the front of the tc is about 3/4 back from the edge of the bellhousing where it mates with the engine block.

4: Once you've done that, you can introduce the engine to the transmission. I made sure my top bolts where in the tranny and pushed in as far as possible. I also had a couple on the sides so I could visually see how it was lining up.

5: Moving a bit at a time, get the dowels in and then the bolts to slide into the engine enough to starting threading them.

6: Put all the bolts in then thread them down about 1/2 inch at a time, snugging up the engine to the tranny.

7: Dont forget the starter!

8: When you have about a 1/4 inch gap between the engine and tranny you can start to bolt up your tc. Do not do this with more than a 1/4 gap or you will pull the tc off the splines and have to remove the engine and start again. You need this 1/4 gap or you will never fit the dust cover metal plate that covers the bottom engine side of the tc.

9: Once the tc is bolted up you can finish tightening the tranny bolts and it should be done!

Last edited by UKrunner; 09-24-2010 at 07:12 PM.
Old 09-25-2010, 10:06 PM
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thanks for the write up man. i appreciate it!!!!!

i will be tackling this tommorow.
i will let you know how it goes after that.
Old 09-28-2010, 07:05 PM
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Got the motor in and hooked up to the tranny.

Now can someone tell me why still the crossmember and my centerlink hit the pan?
Im running a 2wd T100 Oil Pan.

I know people say to use the original 3.0 Pan but i found that mine was a little longer when placed on the bottom of the block and the holes did not line up to mount it up?
Anybody have any insight as to why that was?..i still have the 3.0 oil pan and it was off of a 94' 2wd Automatic. After finding out the 3.0 problem I read to use a 2wd T100 oil pan and now here i am.


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