Lysmachia's CAB/Engine Swap for Tippy
05-20-2008, 12:24 PM
#41
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Hey Molly, look up TheFatKid for sorting the motor and performance. When you get to that point.
I used the T100 2WD pan but, whatever works! The blocks are externally the same 3.4 vs. 3.0. My swap was a little tougher and I had ORS do it. Superb work too. I was busy with building a house.
I used the T100 2WD pan but, whatever works! The blocks are externally the same 3.4 vs. 3.0. My swap was a little tougher and I had ORS do it. Superb work too. I was busy with building a house.
In fact I am gonna hire him to do my crossover exhaust....I'll probably do the ORS wiring harness and then ask Brian for suggestions since he has done like 5 of these swaps....
05-20-2008, 06:28 PM
#42
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The fan I use is out of the 95 4runner. It will fit the stock shroud and doesn't have the goofy explodo ring. I used the 3.4l fan clutch because it was shiny (either one works). Use the oil pan off of the 3.0l, like everyone else said, if it cleared ok before it will clear now.
I weighed both engines and found the 3.4l was heavier. I'll have to check again now. The blocks weighed the same I remember that much. I have a set of heads I could weigh. I think the difference was 12lbs with all the accessories on both engines.
I weighed both engines and found the 3.4l was heavier. I'll have to check again now. The blocks weighed the same I remember that much. I have a set of heads I could weigh. I think the difference was 12lbs with all the accessories on both engines.
05-21-2008, 05:33 AM
#43
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I used a later 2nd gen fan too, and dropped it off for Mike.
I think TheFatKid (he isn't fat... ???) is down to about 6 hours for one of these swaps, the last I heard from Justin.
I think TheFatKid (he isn't fat... ???) is down to about 6 hours for one of these swaps, the last I heard from Justin.
01-28-2009, 05:04 PM
#44
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Hey guys... I am BACK IN ACTION! Who Hoo! We now have an engine stand and are getting ready to service the 3.4 before we drop it in!
I need to double check that I am covering all my bases on servicing this thing.
Here is what I intend to do. What am I missing?
* Drill new dip-stick hole
* Change water pump
* Check the tensioner and ideler pulley to make sure they make no noise. If so - replace
* Change the Valve cover gaskets
* Change the cam seals
* Change the Intake gaskets
* Mount up the 3.0 alternator onto the engine (the reason I am using the 3.0 is because it has been upgraded by Boyles Future Technologies so I have 60 AMPS at idle!) If someone were to WANT this alternator, all they have to do is pay to have me upgrade my 3.4
I now have an oil pan so I am good there.
What else am I missing as I ready the engine?
Thanks yo! -Mols
I need to double check that I am covering all my bases on servicing this thing.
Here is what I intend to do. What am I missing?
* Drill new dip-stick hole
* Change water pump
* Check the tensioner and ideler pulley to make sure they make no noise. If so - replace
* Change the Valve cover gaskets
* Change the cam seals
* Change the Intake gaskets
* Mount up the 3.0 alternator onto the engine (the reason I am using the 3.0 is because it has been upgraded by Boyles Future Technologies so I have 60 AMPS at idle!) If someone were to WANT this alternator, all they have to do is pay to have me upgrade my 3.4
I now have an oil pan so I am good there.
What else am I missing as I ready the engine?
Thanks yo! -Mols
01-28-2009, 06:13 PM
#46
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No way babe! Just financially challenged. But we have been collecting parts all year and it is time to get it done! (Before May when we go to Moab... and before Troy's 3.0 gives out too!)
01-29-2009, 06:34 AM
#49
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Timing belt x3. And I would change the idler pulley with it, regardless. Be sure to 'spin' the idler when you get it; I have gotten two dry from the factory. You need a super whoopee special tool to relieve the tension on the belt. I need to get me one' O dem. If you get one and want to recoup the money let me know and I will take it off your hands.
Adjust the valves too?
Pull a main bearing and rod bearing cap just to have a lookeesee? It's easy now, harder later.
Adjust the valves too?
Pull a main bearing and rod bearing cap just to have a lookeesee? It's easy now, harder later.
01-29-2009, 09:55 AM
#51
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01-30-2009, 01:20 PM
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01-30-2009, 01:29 PM
#54
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oh, yours will go fine, once you get started. I'm afraid mine won't be anywhere as easy/straight forward. The wiring seems to be the biggest headache and my junk hardly has any to begin with. I haven't figured out if that's a good thing or a bad thing yet.
Besides, mine is hardly a swap, more like a build from scratch.
Besides, mine is hardly a swap, more like a build from scratch.
02-05-2009, 03:07 PM
#57
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A TON!!!!!!!
So uh i wanna help out to see what it will entail when i do mine.
you should tow that sukka out to CA.
Then it will be warm working on the swap.
So uh i wanna help out to see what it will entail when i do mine.
you should tow that sukka out to CA.
Then it will be warm working on the swap.
02-06-2009, 07:24 PM
#58
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OK Progress!!! 
My Baby!
Getting it on to the engine stand
The Difference in Alternators. The 3.4 is on the left. But the 3.0 has been upgraded by Boyl's Future Technologies. The only difference in size is the small mounting bracket on the upper left side of each alternator.
My Baby!
Getting it on to the engine stand
The Difference in Alternators. The 3.4 is on the left. But the 3.0 has been upgraded by Boyl's Future Technologies. The only difference in size is the small mounting bracket on the upper left side of each alternator.
Last edited by Lysmachia; 02-06-2009 at 07:28 PM.
02-07-2009, 06:08 AM
#60
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