UKrunner

It's ALIVE!


FIXED!! and running like a dream.

Gravehunter

RobD

Awesome. Welcome to the world of the 3.4!

Fink

Pics or it didn't happen!

Congrats on getting it running.

Fink

UKrunner

Ok, so I've had a couple of threads on this swap but I guess I'll update this one with the pics.

Preface: The swap is driveable and good enough for winter but I need to get the cruise and AC working. Not a real big issue other than I'm out of time. Oh and the other issue. It has a MASSIVE oil leak. I cant tell if its from the rear main seal or the torque converter or the seals around the input shaft on the transmission. Either way, engine has to come out again.

So here are a few pics.







Left some wires out of the tape and free for future playing with. They did something with the 3.0 ecu but dont go anywhere at the moment and everything seems to be working!



I noticed this and thought the fuel line connection was leaking but I don't smell fuel. It feels like very thin oil



Traced it to coming out of a small metal tube which comes out of the bulk head with a rubber gasket around it. On the end of the metal tube is a small rubber tube. I have no idea what it connected to, but it is leaking or venting a very thin oil like substance.



You can see the line position better on this pic when the 3.0 was still in. It's by the coil of brake line.



And on to the oil leak. The transmission fluid is disgusting. It looks like engine oil with 1000 miles on it. Thus I cant tell if this is engine oil or tranny fluid as they literally look identical. I have new engine oil and a rear main seal "fix" thats supposed to swell the rubber and stop it leaking. We'll see. Not convinced it is the rear main seal. Could be the torque converter or transmission. I did have a hell of a time getting them to come together and I have a nagging suspicion that a farked up the oil pump seals and bearing in the tranny.

cadman

I tend to agree that the transmission leak could be the result of trying to bolt the engine and tranny together with the tc already bolted on the flex plate. The oil pump seal may have been torn. You don't need to pull the engine to fix it. Rent or buy a cheap Pep Boys tranny jack and drop the transmission. Just remember to install the tc on the tranny first this time.

Oh, and congrats on finally getting it running.

UKrunner

Is taking the tranny out an easy job compared to engine removal? Any gotchas on the way? I guess all I have to do is drop it enough to get to the input shaft. Or does it have to come out completely?

Any idea on the oily substance around the fuel and brake lines leaking from that pipe?

UKrunner

Parking this link here so I can find it later. Looks like that small pipe has a line on it in this pic.

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...y-part-148064/

cadman

Dropping the tranny is easy. After I initially installed my engine and tranny, I had to remove the tranny for some reason I've since forgotten and it only took about 15 minutes.

Your going to want to remove the tranny completely from the vehicle to get to the seal. You won't have any room to work with the tranny sitting there on the jack while under the vehicle. You'll need to jack up the side of the vehicle enough to pull the tranny out, not a big deal.

I don't know what that other leak is, but the 3.0 in my wife's 4Runner also has a similar leak at the same area and it's been driving me nuts trying to find where it comes from. The fluid is amber colored like motor oil but thinner. That 3.0 is a bit cluttered in that area and I have a hard time tracing the leak to it's origin.

Lysmachia

When was the input shaft seal last done? Might as well get that one done too.

Like I should talk. LOL Tippy has that 3.4 sitting in her. But that's about it. it's just sitting in her. LOL

UKrunner

I've never done the seal so I'd assume its 18 years old!

Good link to tranny removal? Replacing the seal easy? Anyone has a couple of good close up pics of a good seal area? I'm also worried about the bearings as at one point for a few seconds, the whole weight of the engine was hanging off that input shaft.

Lysmachia

Check this thread by iamsuperbleeder. https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116.../#post51281578 While he didn't post pics he can prolly guide you to the right info. I haven't personally done the input shaft bearing since whenever we have dropped the tranny/ dual cases in Troy's rig there were several guys here fighting eachother to get under there and help. (LOL I have all the luck huh?)

RobD

That little tube looks a lot like the A/C drain tube from the evaporator box.

At least, that's what it looks like to me.

cadman

Heres a few pics. You need to remove the bellhousing and use some sort of slide hammer to remove the pump. I used an old timing belt idler and a long bolt for the hammer. Just go a couple taps on opposite sides at a time and the pump comes out pretty easy. Besides the seal, there is an O-ring that goes around the pump body. Replace this too.







My tranny is the A340F, but this should be identical to your A340H.

To remove your tranny you need to disconnect the cooler lines, front (4WD) & rear driveshafts, shifter linkage, and harness. If you have the tc cooler on your tranny, unbolt this from the frame. When everything is disconnected and the jack is positioned under the tranny, it will be easier to separate the tranny with it tilted downwards slightly. Place something like a 2x4 between the firewall and the engine to help take some of the weight off of the tranny.

UKrunner

Doesn't seem too bad except the wife is going to be major pissed when she see's it in bits again.

Fuel consumption question. How many miles average per tank are you guys getting and how accurate is the gauge? I filled the tank with regular, have done 75 miles and am sitting a shade over half a tank. Now if its off by 20% I'll be ok with that but if it's a true reading, I'm getting what, 10mpg!! Shouldn't these things be in the 16mpg range?

cadman

I'm getting 16-27 mpg on the freeway. I have the Scangauge II and watch the realtime mpg gauge all the time. It's a real eye opener on your driving habits and fuel usage. When the freeway is level, my best average mileage is about 22-24 mpg @ 70-72 miles per hour. I'm running 255/85/16 Toyos with 4.88 gears and it is spot on with the speedometer. The Scanguage II and my gps verify what the speedometer reads. I haven't actually kept track of the mileage I'm getting out of a full tank, but I probably should.

UKrunner

Interesting. This thing is leaking like a sieve but non of the fluid levels have dropped. I wonder if its the torque converter? Are they the same '91 through '98?

Ok went for a 100 mile round trip today and found some issues:

1. Speed is off exactly 10% the whole range from indicated 10mph to indicated 90mph.
2. An outstanding 11.7mpg!!
3. There is soooo much fluid under the car its being thrown out far enough to reach the inside of the front tires.
4. Where is the fluid coming from?! Tranny fluid is identical before/after the trip, as is engine oil. Color of fluid is dirty red. Looks like tranny or ps fluid. PS fluid level is also good.
5. If it the tranny thats leaking it probably is the input shaft seal and oil pump bearings. It may also by that the input shaft is bent because we had the weight of the engine hanging on it at one point. How hard is it to replace the input shaft?
6. Anyone have a 340H in good, safe reliable working order for sale?
7. Should the torque converter leak oil if its tipped over? Mine did when I had it on its face on the garage floor.

Anyone have a step by step guide to removing the tranny?

cadman

Not the same, different part numbers.

Yes

The FSM will be as straight forward as you can get.

UKrunner

So if the TC has different part numbers, I presume I can still use my '91 TC with my '91 transmission and my '98 engine?

cadman

Should be no problem.