After this swap sitting for almost a year Im ready to finish it with some help...?
10-21-2010, 05:42 PM
#21
Registered User
I would just add that if there is a referee at C.O.S., I would go there rather than the guy n Fresno. He is way too "good" at his job and is giving me fits at this point.
10-22-2010, 05:38 AM
#23
Registered User
Cat will have to be for what is called for for your donor motor, not the vehicle it is going into. It is part of the emissions for that donor so has to be the proper one.
10-25-2010, 10:05 AM
#24
Registered User
Just out of curiosity what exactly is the procedure for going to regular inspection in CA? I am assuming that they actually check every vehicle to make sure it has the original engine and smog equipment? I was just curious if it was possible to do a swap and just drive it through like it was the original motor?
It seems so unlikely that a government run organization would have people that are actually trained to recognize a swapped motor.
Don't want to highjack your thread, but I keep reading about the dreaded BAR ref and was curious what was the procedure, etc.
Also, what about if you transferred a swapped vehicle into CA from another state, does it have to go through this same procedure?
It seems so unlikely that a government run organization would have people that are actually trained to recognize a swapped motor.
Don't want to highjack your thread, but I keep reading about the dreaded BAR ref and was curious what was the procedure, etc.
Also, what about if you transferred a swapped vehicle into CA from another state, does it have to go through this same procedure?
10-25-2010, 10:28 AM
#25
Just out of curiosity what exactly is the procedure for going to regular inspection in CA? I am assuming that they actually check every vehicle to make sure it has the original engine and smog equipment? I was just curious if it was possible to do a swap and just drive it through like it was the original motor?
It seems so unlikely that a government run organization would have people that are actually trained to recognize a swapped motor.
Don't want to highjack your thread, but I keep reading about the dreaded BAR ref and was curious what was the procedure, etc.
Also, what about if you transferred a swapped vehicle into CA from another state, does it have to go through this same procedure?
It seems so unlikely that a government run organization would have people that are actually trained to recognize a swapped motor.
Don't want to highjack your thread, but I keep reading about the dreaded BAR ref and was curious what was the procedure, etc.
Also, what about if you transferred a swapped vehicle into CA from another state, does it have to go through this same procedure?
The swap must be a newer engine from a newer vehicle. So... my 94 4runner must have a 94 or newer engine. Cant put 87 into a 94. Wont pass.
The ref does a visual inspection to make sure all the equipment from the donor has been used.
CA's smog laws are super strict. Your vehicle would have to have the required smog equip, cat, etc. and the DMV will want lots of $ to register it here.
Smog shops look at the EVERYTHING. They know what engine goes in what car. Theres a sticker under your hood. They have to make sure it matches. The sticker from the ref is the sticker that tells the smog shop its all good!
Hope that helps a lil bit.
10-25-2010, 02:24 PM
#27
Registered User
Ok, so the regular SMOG shop or inspection actually checks for originality in every vehicle it inspects. Now I get it. Here in Jersey your lucky if the inspection station agent can drive stick, nevertheless knows what engine came in a '88 and how to identify it and it's emissions equipment.
You guys might have the weather out there, but it's gotta suck for classic car guys.
You guys might have the weather out there, but it's gotta suck for classic car guys.
10-25-2010, 02:41 PM
#28
Ok, so the regular SMOG shop or inspection actually checks for originality in every vehicle it inspects. Now I get it. Here in Jersey your lucky if the inspection station agent can drive stick, nevertheless knows what engine came in a '88 and how to identify it and it's emissions equipment.
You guys might have the weather out there, but it's gotta suck for classic car guys.
You guys might have the weather out there, but it's gotta suck for classic car guys.
06-30-2011, 12:50 AM
#29
After this swap sitting for almost a year Im ready to finish it with some help...?
So I started this swap about a year ago and due to my schedule and a few other factors just have not had the time or money! (I rebuilt the 302 in my '68 Ford Galaxie instead!#
But now to this project because I am ready for the power of this 3.4L and SC to bring my 4Runner back to life!
First here is a list of what I did before it sat for so long:
My rig: 1994 4Runner #3.0 Auto swapped to manual#
Donor: 2001 Tacoma #3.4 w/ manual 4x4 ecu#
-3.0 was gutted and half parts sold some still available!
-Engine bay degreased and sprayed w/ undercoating #looked great before it sat w/ the hood off in a field for 6 months )
-Crossover built for driverside drop
-Dipstick hole has been drilled and union/tube in place
-Oil pan/pickup tube swapped
-Engine/Transmission installed
I am now working on hose/vacuum/fuel/coolant routing and then those very few wires it should take to start this thing!
Here is a picture of how it sits now.
I have the coolant lines figure out for the most part. I know drivers side on motor goes to drivers side on firewall and same for passenger. Since I am deleteing the rear heater I have chosen to either do away with the T fittings or make them into burpers as I have read on other threads.
So my questions is in regards to where these plugs go...
1) 2 wires w/ connectors on the passenger side:
one comes from under the fuse box bundle of wires, and the other comes from the harness running along the upper radiator support. They are both 2 wires each with a connector
UPDATE: The one from the upp radiator support is for the wiper fluid container! DOH! Still looking for the other one.
2) 2 more wires the come out on the passenger side of the engine, just above the timing cover. They are 1 wire each with a connector.
Seeing as how they fall in the same place, I wouldnt be suprised if they are somehow related..?
Also There is a single wire coming from the firewall and a single wire from the rear of the engine that Im guessing are related to the heater... sensor? not sure... here are a couple pictures..
and from the engine...
I am also a little confused over this hose...?
And the routing on these items... I noticed the small hose below the SC in other rigs is routed to the plenum... so this means I do what with it?
Also the boost port routing.. anyone have a diagram by chance?
This comes from the back of the head and goes to what...?
I have read many of your threads and I appreciate all the help you can give and with it I hope to be driving the beast soon!
Thanks again!
But now to this project because I am ready for the power of this 3.4L and SC to bring my 4Runner back to life!
First here is a list of what I did before it sat for so long:
My rig: 1994 4Runner #3.0 Auto swapped to manual#
Donor: 2001 Tacoma #3.4 w/ manual 4x4 ecu#
-3.0 was gutted and half parts sold some still available!
-Engine bay degreased and sprayed w/ undercoating #looked great before it sat w/ the hood off in a field for 6 months )
-Crossover built for driverside drop
-Dipstick hole has been drilled and union/tube in place
-Oil pan/pickup tube swapped
-Engine/Transmission installed
I am now working on hose/vacuum/fuel/coolant routing and then those very few wires it should take to start this thing!
Here is a picture of how it sits now.
I have the coolant lines figure out for the most part. I know drivers side on motor goes to drivers side on firewall and same for passenger. Since I am deleteing the rear heater I have chosen to either do away with the T fittings or make them into burpers as I have read on other threads.
So my questions is in regards to where these plugs go...
1) 2 wires w/ connectors on the passenger side:
one comes from under the fuse box bundle of wires, and the other comes from the harness running along the upper radiator support. They are both 2 wires each with a connector
UPDATE: The one from the upp radiator support is for the wiper fluid container! DOH! Still looking for the other one.
2) 2 more wires the come out on the passenger side of the engine, just above the timing cover. They are 1 wire each with a connector.
Seeing as how they fall in the same place, I wouldnt be suprised if they are somehow related..?
Also There is a single wire coming from the firewall and a single wire from the rear of the engine that Im guessing are related to the heater... sensor? not sure... here are a couple pictures..
and from the engine...
I am also a little confused over this hose...?
And the routing on these items... I noticed the small hose below the SC in other rigs is routed to the plenum... so this means I do what with it?
Also the boost port routing.. anyone have a diagram by chance?
This comes from the back of the head and goes to what...?
I have read many of your threads and I appreciate all the help you can give and with it I hope to be driving the beast soon!
Thanks again!
Last edited by calipatient; 06-30-2011 at 12:32 PM.
08-14-2011, 02:45 PM
#32
so... after about a years worth of procrastination and a few days of good hard work... ITS ALIVE!!! I finally have my 3.4 Swapped and Supercharged 94 4Runner! Still need to weld in the exhaust and my tach is not working for some reason. Also it started dumping out oil so had to kill it... appears the oring to the oil cooler was shredded! So Im headed to grab another and more oil! Other than that it sounds awesome! I have video I'll upload shortly!
SO STOKED and I havnt even driven it yet! lol
SO STOKED and I havnt even driven it yet! lol
08-15-2011, 07:14 AM
#33
Registered User
Awesome! I am jealous of the SC.
On the tach, really not a whole lot it could be I dont think.
Either the black wire isn't connected properly in the kick panel, the tach mod is not done or done incorrectly, or the tach is bad. I would assume that since it run the ignitor is working properly.
Good luck
On the tach, really not a whole lot it could be I dont think.
Either the black wire isn't connected properly in the kick panel, the tach mod is not done or done incorrectly, or the tach is bad. I would assume that since it run the ignitor is working properly.
Good luck
08-15-2011, 11:31 AM
#34
Heres the video...
First start of 3.4 SC
Had a hard time starting it due to a bad ground, fixed that and it fires right up everytime now! Also after I stopped the video I looked on the ground and the entire flood was covered in oil! Oil cooler gasket was shredded. Replaced it and NO leaks! Even got to drive it down the street and back! 4WD works as well.
I think I have have not plugged the gauges in properly and that might be the issue with the tach because I also notice neither does my water temp gauge, but battery, fuel and oil pressure work... maybe tach and water temp are on the same plug? I guess ill know when I tear it apart.
First start of 3.4 SC
Had a hard time starting it due to a bad ground, fixed that and it fires right up everytime now! Also after I stopped the video I looked on the ground and the entire flood was covered in oil! Oil cooler gasket was shredded. Replaced it and NO leaks! Even got to drive it down the street and back! 4WD works as well.
I think I have have not plugged the gauges in properly and that might be the issue with the tach because I also notice neither does my water temp gauge, but battery, fuel and oil pressure work... maybe tach and water temp are on the same plug? I guess ill know when I tear it apart.
08-15-2011, 04:49 PM
#36
Registered User
If your truck started as being an auto, there is no circuit wired for the NSS. You would have to install one and wire it to interrupt the starter feed wire. Should be fairly easy.
One the gauges, the last one I did the speedo was not working after it was working fine. The plug into the cluster was loose. Cleaned it up, reconnected it and it was good.
One the gauges, the last one I did the speedo was not working after it was working fine. The plug into the cluster was loose. Cleaned it up, reconnected it and it was good.
Last edited by dntsdad; 08-16-2011 at 07:03 AM.
08-15-2011, 04:54 PM
#37
I your truck started as being an auto, there is no circuit wired for the NSS. You would have to install one and wire it to interrupt the starter feed wire. Should be fairly easy.
One the gauges, the last one I did the speedo was not working after it was working fine. The plug into the cluster was loose. Cleaned it up, reconnected it and it was good.
One the gauges, the last one I did the speedo was not working after it was working fine. The plug into the cluster was loose. Cleaned it up, reconnected it and it was good.
Now that I think of it the speedo wasnt working either... Ill have to tear it down tomorrow when I get time. Classes started today at Fresno City, headed that way now as a matter a fact!
08-21-2011, 08:54 AM
#38
So i ripped the dash apart, checked all the plugs to the gauges. Everything securely plugged in and not working... I even tried swapping clusters as I have a spare I got that was closer to my new mileage w/ the 3.4L.
The lights to the cluster works as well as the fuel, oil pressure, and volts... but speedo, tach and water temp gauges are not working...
Any ideas on where this could have gone wrong?
I purchased the wiring harness from Toyonlyswaps... maybe they made a minor mistake..? I plan to call tomorrow when they are open but was hoping to get some ideas here first.
The lights to the cluster works as well as the fuel, oil pressure, and volts... but speedo, tach and water temp gauges are not working...
Any ideas on where this could have gone wrong?
I purchased the wiring harness from Toyonlyswaps... maybe they made a minor mistake..? I plan to call tomorrow when they are open but was hoping to get some ideas here first.
08-21-2011, 08:58 AM
#39
Awesome! I am jealous of the SC.
On the tach, really not a whole lot it could be I dont think.
Either the black wire isn't connected properly in the kick panel, the tach mod is not done or done incorrectly, or the tach is bad. I would assume that since it run the ignitor is working properly.
Good luck
On the tach, really not a whole lot it could be I dont think.
Either the black wire isn't connected properly in the kick panel, the tach mod is not done or done incorrectly, or the tach is bad. I would assume that since it run the ignitor is working properly.
Good luck
