3.4 Swaps The 3.4 V6 Toyota engine

91 SR5 3.0 Conversion To 98 T100 3.4 Wiring

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Old 03-25-2011, 05:30 PM
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Originally Posted by 91SR5PU
the funny thing is, i didnt.. and it still works, so im assuming that is a part of the body harness that does not have to be converted.. i was looking for my starter relay to be in my passenger kick panel and figured it didnt exist but i found out today it is in the drivers side and is already all hooke up. there is no need to tamper with it or any of its wires for the swap..

Like I said earlier, you are catching the starter circuit downstream of all the clutch start and relay. Therefore, everything will work as always. You are simply extending the starter trigger wire to the starter and joining in a small wire to go to the STA terminal to give your new ECM info that the truck is trying to start.

Also, I read on your Pirate thread that you do not have any of the EVAP stuff hooked up. What are you doing with all the various vacuum lines that would normally go to it? If they are all unhooked and uncapped. That would surely cause your motor to run like crap.
Old 03-25-2011, 05:36 PM
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haha yea you were right, its so simple now.. it was just that stupid relay that guy put in there that was throwing me off so bad.. and yea i figured.. i did cap the ones i saw but i have it all hooked up now except for 2.. i have the port that is supposed to go to the gas tank and i have the one that is supposed to recieve air from my air intake but i dont know where on the motor to hook these up.. i need a vac line diagram for this motor... hrmm
Old 03-25-2011, 05:42 PM
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See if these help



In this picture, I think that:
A: goes to the fuel tank vent line
B: Goes to the air cleaner
C: Just a vent. I ran a hose to inside the frame rail with a small motorcycle fuel filter on it.


The line that is at the base of the red arrow is the one that runs over to the airbox. It just happens to be off in this picture.


Old 03-25-2011, 05:47 PM
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ok yea, with my expirience you are correct with all of that.. so can the fuel tank vent line and air cleaner just stay open like that? does it matter? because if it doesnt my truck is still messed.. cause it idles great but it just has trouble on start up and then if i gas it up a lot my engine bogs down to almost just stopping completely
Old 03-26-2011, 12:51 PM
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if anybody has any ideas on why my truck would do this please let me know.. i think im probably going to have to take it into the shop come monday unless i can get some help here cause i have no idea.. when i try to start it could it fires up and dies several times before it will stay on and run but then once its running it sounds fine.. when i give it a little gas at a time it revs right up what when i slam on it the engine boggs way down.. im thinking it just has to be a fuel issue, i cant think of anything else.. my pump is working, i feel the gas running through the lines at the motor.. i dunno
Old 03-26-2011, 06:36 PM
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Shop

Get your self an OBD II scanner, but or rent one from an auto parts store. This I'm willing to bet will get you pointed in the right direction.

Can you explain to me how you got the starter to stop constantly running with the truck is started? I'm having the same issue as you.
Old 03-26-2011, 07:23 PM
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Originally Posted by 91SR5PU
ok yea, with my expirience you are correct with all of that.. so can the fuel tank vent line and air cleaner just stay open like that? does it matter? because if it doesnt my truck is still messed.. cause it idles great but it just has trouble on start up and then if i gas it up a lot my engine bogs down to almost just stopping completely
If none of those lines are hooked up, you have some serious vacuum leaks. They need to be hooked up. I dount any shop is going to diagnose it without you doing that , or them. Much cheaper for you and see if that helps your issue as well.

Originally Posted by tirogers
Get your self an OBD II scanner, but or rent one from an auto parts store. This I'm willing to bet will get you pointed in the right direction.
This could help as well. Clear all the codes and then restart it and drive it the best you can, even on jackstands, or just let it run and see if any codes trip.

Personally, I think that you have a MAF issue but I could be wrong. I would be checking the connections at the MAF

Is your battery all charged and the alternator is working properly? Do you have about 13.8 volts on the battery at idle? Does it nosedive when you rack the throttle?

Last edited by dntsdad; 03-26-2011 at 07:25 PM.
Old 03-27-2011, 03:01 AM
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hrm i will definately check all these things in the morning and get back to you, but i also thing i may have a short in one of my spark plugs cause today i was checking the plugs while the truck was running and im not sure exactly sure where i toughed cause i was reaching under my air intake but i got shocked super hard.. i dont know, im guessing it came from my spark plug or wire but i dunno.. im guessing thats sort of a problem haha, i want to know if it was a freak thing or if its shorting but im afraid to test it again
Old 03-27-2011, 02:49 PM
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yep, you guys are too smart.. i hooked an indicator light to each wire going to my MAF sensor and it never lit up aka i have 0 power going to my MAF.. yay, another wiring mystery. ill get back to you guys once i figure out whats going on with it
Old 03-27-2011, 06:56 PM
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well im pretty sure i have a bad MAF because i did the test where you stick the rods from the ohmeter in two of the ports on the plug and blow into the intake. There should be a shift in voltage when this happens and mine did nothing.. So i am planning on buying a new MAF tomorow and hopefully that will be my last problem! ha right....
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