7mge in pickup
#1
7mge in pickup
Hi, I have been working on putting a 7mge engine into my pickup. Lots of hard work. Starting to get near the end. Also I am bolting this up to an auto trans. I did not go turbo because I didnt want to start breaking drive train parts and I was on a budget. Adding intercooler and all of the parts for the turbo gets costly. Plus I got the engine for free. Also I dont really like the JDM engines because you never know what type of use they got. I rebuilt the engine from ground up. I used Clevite, NPR, Hasting, Commetic, Arp, GMB, and gaskets all made in japan. I hate crap that comes from china. Well let me know what you think.
#3
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hey there I am also putting in a 7mge into my 88 yota, I have it bolted up but I am having troubles wiring it up, how did you wire yours and did you have a write up from anywhere?
#4
Here is a link to the wiring. It actually simple if you know what the wires are
http://www.off-road.com/trucks4x4/ar....jsp?id=274612
Out of all of that here is what it is
This list along with the wiring manuals should make the wiring a snap. ECU1) +B and +B1 (B-R) of Supra ECU to the wires running to the +B and +B1 terminals (B) of the truck ECU. The B-R Supra wires were accessed at the J/B#2 connector (see below), and the truck B wires were accessed at the connector for the truck ECU. 2) BATT (B-Y) of Supra ECU to BATT (W-L) of truck ECU. The wire locations were same as above. 3) IGN (B-O) of Supra ECU to wire from truck IGN fuse (B-Y). The B-O Supra wire was located at the ECU, and I accessed the B-Y truck wire from the unused rear heater relay. I mounted the ECU in the stock location- it is slightly larger than the truck ECU so the kick panel does not fit back on, and I plan on constructing a new panel to protect the ECU when I get a chance. STARTER B-L wire in Supra harness to B wire from truck starter relay. Both wires can be accessed where the wiring harnesses enter the right kickpanel. IGNITION COIL B-O wire in Supra harness to B-R wire from truck IGN switch. I used the B-R wired that originally connected to the truck coil and connected it to the B-O Supra wire at the coil location. ALTERNATOR I ended up using only the truck's alternator wiring- it has the same connector as the Supra alternator. That way the charging circuit remained intact and separate from the Supra's harness. I just needed to run an 8 gauge wire from the truck's junction box to the (+) battery terminal. FUEL PUMP I temporarily connected the fuel pump to a wire that has power with the IGN switch on. Ideally, it should be run through a dual relay setup that would cut power to the pump when the engine is not running, in case of an accident. I plan on doing this in the very near future.
http://www.off-road.com/trucks4x4/ar....jsp?id=274612
Out of all of that here is what it is
This list along with the wiring manuals should make the wiring a snap. ECU1) +B and +B1 (B-R) of Supra ECU to the wires running to the +B and +B1 terminals (B) of the truck ECU. The B-R Supra wires were accessed at the J/B#2 connector (see below), and the truck B wires were accessed at the connector for the truck ECU. 2) BATT (B-Y) of Supra ECU to BATT (W-L) of truck ECU. The wire locations were same as above. 3) IGN (B-O) of Supra ECU to wire from truck IGN fuse (B-Y). The B-O Supra wire was located at the ECU, and I accessed the B-Y truck wire from the unused rear heater relay. I mounted the ECU in the stock location- it is slightly larger than the truck ECU so the kick panel does not fit back on, and I plan on constructing a new panel to protect the ECU when I get a chance. STARTER B-L wire in Supra harness to B wire from truck starter relay. Both wires can be accessed where the wiring harnesses enter the right kickpanel. IGNITION COIL B-O wire in Supra harness to B-R wire from truck IGN switch. I used the B-R wired that originally connected to the truck coil and connected it to the B-O Supra wire at the coil location. ALTERNATOR I ended up using only the truck's alternator wiring- it has the same connector as the Supra alternator. That way the charging circuit remained intact and separate from the Supra's harness. I just needed to run an 8 gauge wire from the truck's junction box to the (+) battery terminal. FUEL PUMP I temporarily connected the fuel pump to a wire that has power with the IGN switch on. Ideally, it should be run through a dual relay setup that would cut power to the pump when the engine is not running, in case of an accident. I plan on doing this in the very near future.
#5
Here is a pin out.
Also my comp ratio is around 11.5ish with minor porting. Truck should scoot along nice and fast. Another thing is the 7m should get better gas mileage. I live in cali, so I do a lot of free way. When I had rebuilt the 22re 3000 miles ago it sucked gas trying to keep up to speed so I said screw this I want power and to save money on gas. I sold that engine back in February.
Also my comp ratio is around 11.5ish with minor porting. Truck should scoot along nice and fast. Another thing is the 7m should get better gas mileage. I live in cali, so I do a lot of free way. When I had rebuilt the 22re 3000 miles ago it sucked gas trying to keep up to speed so I said screw this I want power and to save money on gas. I sold that engine back in February.
Last edited by DanMcCutcheon; 03-18-2010 at 05:39 PM.
#6
Here are more pics. Its a diamond in the rough. Still got to reroute fuel, exhaust finish the engine and some more small stuff. Another thing is I gutted the whole engine compartment because I wanted to start from new and did not want crap falling apart. I have always had the thought to do it right the first time so you do not have to do it a second. Eventually once I get more $$$ I will start on suspension. I plan to race it some day. I hope
#7
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Hey man i hear ya, it was a pita to get mine going. I still havent got the wiring figured out but just enough to get it going. I have to wait a lil bit longer b4 i can get on it since I completely rebuilt it. but i can already tell the difference. I drove it one day to work and back with open exhaust manifold, holy crap that was annoying! needless to say its at the local exhaust shop getting it connect to my 2.5 exhaust and flowmaster 40 series from my 22re should sound mean
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#8
Ya, I will be runing a 3in system with no cat. I will most likely use flow master. With my school and work I have very little time to work on it. Tomorrow i will put some more pics.
#9
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sounds sweet ya the time constraints suck. I work 40 hours a week and take 15 credit hours, not to mention the nagging gf saying I spend too much time working on my truck ha what does she know. I just order a 2" body lift for it so i can clear the supra radiator and put my stock hood latch back on since i cut the whole core support to fit the radiator and e-fans
#10
Well, its all most finished. ya right. I still got throttle linkage, gas lines, exhaust, radiator set up, and wiring. Well here is what I was able to do today. Also no smog crap on this nice engine.
#11
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ok so I have been trying to figure out at least my oil pressure gauge and water temp wiring to see where its at but I cannot figure it out..
I have a pic of my M1 connector
but it looks like im missing a few wires..
i connect what was suppose to be the water temp gauge wire from the truck body harness which is yellow/green, you are suppose to to connect that to the supra harness on the M1 connect to yellow/green which there is no yellow/green on this connector.. so i tried the yellow/green wire from the truck body harness to all the wire's and still nothing wth??
so i did the same for the oil pressure gauge which is black/yellow coming from the sending unit on the engie and again in this connector there is no black/yellow wire so i tried it on the wires from the engine harness and again nothing.
I dont understand whats going on with this can someone help me out
I have a pic of my M1 connector
but it looks like im missing a few wires..
i connect what was suppose to be the water temp gauge wire from the truck body harness which is yellow/green, you are suppose to to connect that to the supra harness on the M1 connect to yellow/green which there is no yellow/green on this connector.. so i tried the yellow/green wire from the truck body harness to all the wire's and still nothing wth??
so i did the same for the oil pressure gauge which is black/yellow coming from the sending unit on the engie and again in this connector there is no black/yellow wire so i tried it on the wires from the engine harness and again nothing.
I dont understand whats going on with this can someone help me out
Last edited by aviator; 03-27-2010 at 08:55 PM.
#12
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Looks like a great write up Dan.. keep the info coming... sorry no help on the wiring issue sullivan...
Last edited by aviator; 03-27-2010 at 08:57 PM.
#13
Well about the wires I have no clue, I am using a gauge set to watch over my engine vitals. Ill look threw some wiring diagrams to see what I can find to help you out.
#14
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thanks dan that would be great. The connector i posted is actually the HAC sensor. but as far as the large connector i think is B1 or M1 and the IH1 connect i could use diagrams.. I spoke with my local toyota dealerships and they told me they couldnt get the wiring diagrams for my truck, I was kinda surprised
#15
Well Ill see what I can dig up. What year is your truck??
well on Sunday I worked a little on power management. I used a 4 gauge cable off of the batt into a fuse centre and then went into the trucks fuse system.
well on Sunday I worked a little on power management. I used a 4 gauge cable off of the batt into a fuse centre and then went into the trucks fuse system.
#17
ok hey I was just thinking a good cheep route is to get a gauge set. I look a little a some diagrams and dint find much. I will look more latter. But they are like $45 and it comes with oil pressure, water temp, and volts. They are easy to install and look cool.
#18
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that looks pretty sharp, if you wanted an oem look you can get an sr5 cluster off ebay or in the junkyard if they have a cluster in your area. Its plug and play i did that for my truck
#19
Ya, I really dont like the oem look as much. I like the race look and plus that is the area that the truck is moving for. Over the summer when I do my long travel I will be gutting the dash and doing it in sheet metal.