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Biggest tire size with Trail Gears 5" SAS?

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Old 11-28-2011, 08:32 PM
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Biggest tire size with Trail Gears 5" SAS?

The All Pro site only guarantees to fit 33's, but says you can fit 38's with trimming. I want to know with Trail-Gears HD 5" kit, what you can run without rubbing and without trimming. I also have a 1" body lift. I'm starting with 35's, but will need to buy new rubber pretty soon, and want to know what size to upgrade to. I'm thinking 37's, but I want to make sure they'll fit, and was wondering if I could go even bigger.

Thanks
Old 11-29-2011, 04:56 AM
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35s are as big as you can go and not rub without moving the axle forward an abnormal amount or trimming and possibly tubbing the firewall.

:wabbit2:
Old 11-29-2011, 08:48 AM
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I plan to move the front spring hanger forward the recommended 3/4" I also have a 1" body lift, and have already trimmed the pinch weld on the firewall, as well as taken a sledgehammer to it to fatten it out. I wasn't even close to rubbing my 33's with the IFS 1 1/2" Ball joint spacer lift. The new perches I welded onto my front axle will also allow me to move the axle forward 1" or back 1"
Old 12-06-2011, 11:13 AM
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84 4Runner - 4" Trail Gear springs F&R - tubbed firewall (back to the body mount) - high cut front fenders - major cut of rear quarter panel & rear wheel tub = 39.5" Iroks











Don't be scared to cut the sheetmetal
Old 12-06-2011, 12:45 PM
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I'm not scared to cut on a dedicated rock crawler, but the truck I'm working on is a lemon and has virtually no rust, its just weird. So I don't want to hack it up and destroy it. I wouldn't be building it up even, except most the time when I need to crawl out in the field or the pasture to get cattle back in, I'm usually in my daily driver.... and we have some pretty rough terrain for the "Great Plains" Beating in the firewall however, I do not mind. I've already done about as much as I thought was necessary.
Old 12-06-2011, 12:48 PM
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go 37's, mount the front axle forward one inch or so by redrilling the front perch
that being said, I would keep it a little lower and go 4"
Old 12-06-2011, 04:21 PM
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Originally Posted by ocdropzone
go 37's, mount the front axle forward one inch or so by redrilling the front perch
that being said, I would keep it a little lower and go 4"
That's what I don't get, I've been told that before. This guy had 38's and a 4" lift with some fender trimming. It's amazing how much fenders inhibit suspension articulation with bigger tires. I'm also throwing a heavy diesel engine in, which I think will squat the front end down, especially with my heavy bumper/winch. My axle came without perches, so I installed new ones from Low-Range Off Road, which have 3 holes, spaced 1" apart. So if mounting my front spring hanger forward 3/4" doesn't work, I can just scoot the axle forward on the springs by 1" Or do you think I should skip scooting the hanger forward and just go with the perch relocation holes? Trail Gear recommends moving the hanger forward with their 5" springs that I got.

Sorry for the "stupid" questions. I'll quit bugging you guys, and I'll make sure to follow up with a post on the outcome of my SAS. My 35's I will putting on aren't more than an inch bigger than my new 33" kevlar mtr's, so I won't have to worry about 37's rubbing for a while, at least not until I'm rich or rubber gets cheaper.
Old 12-11-2011, 09:43 AM
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Originally Posted by Volcom


Don't be scared to cut the sheetmetal

Words to live by.
Old 12-13-2011, 07:16 AM
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Originally Posted by pyrojoe22
Sorry for the "stupid" questions. I'll quit bugging you guys, and I'll make sure to follow up with a post on the outcome of my SAS. My 35's I will putting on aren't more than an inch bigger than my new 33" kevlar mtr's, so I won't have to worry about 37's rubbing for a while, at least not until I'm rich or rubber gets cheaper.
Wasn't a stupid question and your not bugging us. In your first couple posts, you never said that you're not building a rock crawler. Most guys that run 4-5" lift and 38's are playing in the rocks. That's why I posted what I posted. I'd say run the 35's if you don't plan on cutting sheetmetal.
Old 12-13-2011, 08:17 AM
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Get the tg hd springs. I was running the standard tg springs with my 3.4, and winch and was bottoming out all the time, on road and off. I now have the 4" tg hd's. it rides a whole much better, has good uptravel, its just still a little taller than i want it. I think i would n't go any bigger than 4" if i was you, and wanting 37's eventually.
Old 12-13-2011, 12:22 PM
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I already have the springs, 5" HD, but haven't bought tires yet. I won't need tires till my 35's I got for free run bald. Tires come through work from time to time though, so if I see a pair I guess I'll snag 37's. As far as cutting, again, this is my one of a kind rust-free truck without dents, so I won't be cutting. This truck isn't going into the Hammers race or Top Truck Challenge, so it doesn't have to be a perfect off-roader. And like I said, I think the om617 diesel will weigh those front springs down quite a bit, so I could potentially be at the same ride height as a 4" spring set up with a 22R....
Old 12-13-2011, 12:59 PM
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Originally Posted by pyrojoe22
I already have the springs, 5" HD, but haven't bought tires yet. I won't need tires till my 35's I got for free run bald. Tires come through work from time to time though, so if I see a pair I guess I'll snag 37's. As far as cutting, again, this is my one of a kind rust-free truck without dents, so I won't be cutting. This truck isn't going into the Hammers race or Top Truck Challenge, so it doesn't have to be a perfect off-roader. And like I said, I think the om617 diesel will weigh those front springs down quite a bit, so I could potentially be at the same ride height as a 4" spring set up with a 22R....
How much does that diesel weigh? I think you need to compare it to the weight of the toyota 3.4, I'm still higher currently than i was when i had the regular 4" springs on my truck. Point being i dont think you will have any clearance issues with 37's minus maybe the pinch weld needing folded over. I think your ride height will be above that of a regular 4" spring truck with 22r.
Old 12-13-2011, 02:25 PM
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True, that's what I'm hoping for, and I'll post up specs in my build up thread when it's finished, and also as I mentioned earlier, I already folded the pinch weld over so that's out of the way.

Here's my build thread:
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f162...l-swap-244367/
Old 12-19-2011, 10:32 PM
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If you move your axle forward clearing 37's should be easy in the front. stuffing them into an uncut rear could be interesting.
Old 12-23-2011, 11:35 AM
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Ive seen people run 39.5 inch tires on TG 3" springs haha but they did trim a bit.... Ive seen people with 5" springs with 38s and rub at times. Im planning an SAS on my truck but dont want to go any bigger than 37s personally
Old 12-23-2011, 11:43 AM
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One thing to keep in mind is with a SAS, you will actually be 1" taller than whichever springs you get, in your case you'll be at 6" + your body lift. This is because the front spring hanger adds an extra 1" of lift when you weld it in.

I say, see if you can't test fit some different tire sizes that you were planning on running. Even if that means cutting out a piece of cardboard in the tire size you want to run, mounting it on the axle and using a jack to simulate the suspension travel. May look dumb, but you'll get your answers.
Old 12-23-2011, 11:48 AM
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Yep, that spring adds an extra inch. So you would be sitting at 7 inches of lift=enough for 38s
Old 12-23-2011, 03:22 PM
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I know the bit about the 1" more from spring hanger and shackles, so I just call them 6" springs, like All-Pro does, to try to avoid confusion.
Old 12-23-2011, 05:13 PM
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FWIW Heres my junk with a TG 4" SAS on 36" Iroks
Name:  0228001650b.jpg
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I'm now running RUF (about 2" lower than TG "four inch" springs) and can RUN 39.5s with the pinch weld and firewall beat
Old 12-26-2011, 02:35 PM
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wow that runner sits really high. i like it


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