Lifts and Tires
11-02-2006, 07:05 PM
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Lifts and Tires
First, let me start out by saying...THIS SITE ROCKS! You don't see much for T100's but, this site has it all!
First question: Are there any catalogs/websites that do a service for these unique trucks? I have looked at JC Whitney and the like but, they cater to ford, chevy and dodge mostly.
Second question. In the spring, I plan to put 31x10.5/15 on. Since the truck is stock, I assume I don't need a lift. That said, I want a lift but I tend to be cheap and I'm not a fan of suspension lifts. I saw a 3" body lift for about 100 bucks. Would I be wasting my money by going this route?? Thanks for any assistance!
--Mule
First question: Are there any catalogs/websites that do a service for these unique trucks? I have looked at JC Whitney and the like but, they cater to ford, chevy and dodge mostly.
Second question. In the spring, I plan to put 31x10.5/15 on. Since the truck is stock, I assume I don't need a lift. That said, I want a lift but I tend to be cheap and I'm not a fan of suspension lifts. I saw a 3" body lift for about 100 bucks. Would I be wasting my money by going this route?? Thanks for any assistance!
--Mule
11-02-2006, 07:13 PM
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it depends on what you want.. to get a body lift and stuff for a t100 go to www.4wheelparts.com and www.ntwonline.com for the body lift.. i got my body lift from ntwonline for 185 shipped.. im puttin it on in 2 weeks.. for 31s you do not need a lift if you truck is 4x4..
11-02-2006, 07:29 PM
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since yotas arent american made and they are already built badass out the box theres not much you can do to make em better.. powerful yea there alot needed, but since t100s were only made for a short time and they were kinda the prototypes for the tundra they dont make much for them, but when you find something get it, cause you might never be able to get it again!!
11-02-2006, 08:09 PM
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I found the most optimal way to do a decent lift for the cheapest and get the most out of it. This lift will get you about 1.5-2"
Wheelers offroad carries a kit under the tundra section that is called:
Deaver add a leaf pack, its 190 bucks and will bolt right on according to a person who has already done it on another board. This will lift it about 1.5-2" or so.
A 4Crawler ball joint spacer kit will work as well, and net 1.5" or so and cost 100 bucks.
This mild lift will allow for bigger tires and better articulation...
Wheelers offroad carries a kit under the tundra section that is called:
Deaver add a leaf pack, its 190 bucks and will bolt right on according to a person who has already done it on another board. This will lift it about 1.5-2" or so.
A 4Crawler ball joint spacer kit will work as well, and net 1.5" or so and cost 100 bucks.
This mild lift will allow for bigger tires and better articulation...
Last edited by CJM; 11-02-2006 at 08:30 PM.
11-02-2006, 08:23 PM
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Only partially true. You can either get one or the other with BJ spacers, but not both. If all you do is install BJ spacers you get 1.5" extra droop, but the compression is unchanged, therefore on compression the hub (wheel and tire) is in the same location it was stock, meaning if it would rub w/out BJ spacers it would rub with them. If you install BJ spacers and a bumpstop extension equal to the BJ spacer height, then you get the added room for tires, but no extra travel.
11-02-2006, 08:30 PM
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Good point AH64ID. This brings to light though the possibility it can work, but in theory we dont really know. I do wonder and will discuss it with Roger when I get a chance and report back.
For now I assume also cranking the torsion bars (or not it depends), using low pro bump stops, the BJ spacers and a hammered fender seam (clearance) will work. This guy did it in his 94 pick up and it amazingly worked well, only thing he did was use the bodylift over the BJ spacers. http://www.4x4wire.com/toyota/hottoy/west/ which one to use is still up inthe air and like I said I will have to talk to Roger about it.
Supposing I did this it can theoretically work, but for now the front end is up in the air as using a BJ spacer or bodylift and which will work better for the application. In my case, I wouldnt be throwing anything bigger than 33's on there anyways and may just stick to 32's. Bigger isnt always better, what will help are some lockers.
Edit:
As per Roger though:
http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/ForSale/...ml#Description
For now I assume also cranking the torsion bars (or not it depends), using low pro bump stops, the BJ spacers and a hammered fender seam (clearance) will work. This guy did it in his 94 pick up and it amazingly worked well, only thing he did was use the bodylift over the BJ spacers. http://www.4x4wire.com/toyota/hottoy/west/ which one to use is still up inthe air and like I said I will have to talk to Roger about it.
Supposing I did this it can theoretically work, but for now the front end is up in the air as using a BJ spacer or bodylift and which will work better for the application. In my case, I wouldnt be throwing anything bigger than 33's on there anyways and may just stick to 32's. Bigger isnt always better, what will help are some lockers.
Edit:
As per Roger though:
http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/ForSale/...ml#Description
These spacers are 1.5"/38mm tall and provide about that much lift over stock suspension settings as well as that much more overall travel.
Last edited by CJM; 11-02-2006 at 08:39 PM.
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11-02-2006, 11:50 PM
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I am not sure about a t100, but a 33x12.50 can fit on a stock truck, with minor mods to the pinchweld with a BFH. I beleive its slosulfer that has this setup with minor rubbing, but backspacing is crutial at 3.75" on a 15x8" rim. 33x10.50's fit no problem, and is the size that many run with the BJ spacer setup. You get the added diff clearance, but dont have to worry about rubbing.
While I am not in favor of body lift a 1" BL provides room for a 2" taller, but not wider tire. If you go wider you can still go taller, but not the full 2".
While I am not in favor of body lift a 1" BL provides room for a 2" taller, but not wider tire. If you go wider you can still go taller, but not the full 2".
11-03-2006, 04:47 AM
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it depends on what you want.. to get a body lift and stuff for a t100 go to www.4wheelparts.com and www.ntwonline.com for the body lift.. i got my body lift from ntwonline for 185 shipped.. im puttin it on in 2 weeks.. for 31s you do not need a lift if you truck is 4x4..
11-03-2006, 05:00 AM
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This therory is based on my own rational/irrational way of thinking. If you raise the suspension, you are raising the engine, transfer and tranny. If you do that, the angle of the drive shaft connections are going to be increased. Therefore, putting additional stress on the drive shaft and gear housings, joints, etc.
The last part of this therory is this; Toyota is a reputable company and they made this truck in the manner it did for a reason. Leave the suspension alone or suffer the problems that may arise from it. The way I see it, the body lift does the least amount of "damage" to the truck.
How far off track am I?
--Mule
The last part of this therory is this; Toyota is a reputable company and they made this truck in the manner it did for a reason. Leave the suspension alone or suffer the problems that may arise from it. The way I see it, the body lift does the least amount of "damage" to the truck.
How far off track am I?
--Mule
11-03-2006, 11:38 AM
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This therory is based on my own rational/irrational way of thinking. If you raise the suspension, you are raising the engine, transfer and tranny. If you do that, the angle of the drive shaft connections are going to be increased. Therefore, putting additional stress on the drive shaft and gear housings, joints, etc.
The last part of this therory is this; Toyota is a reputable company and they made this truck in the manner it did for a reason. Leave the suspension alone or suffer the problems that may arise from it. The way I see it, the body lift does the least amount of "damage" to the truck.
How far off track am I?
--Mule
The last part of this therory is this; Toyota is a reputable company and they made this truck in the manner it did for a reason. Leave the suspension alone or suffer the problems that may arise from it. The way I see it, the body lift does the least amount of "damage" to the truck.
How far off track am I?
--Mule
Personally I dont like body lifts becuase it works like a breaker bar on a wrench does. You raise the vertical center of gravity above the suspension. It takes effort to induce body roll. Where as on a suspension lift the force acting on the suspension hasnt changed. Search around here, you will find that just about everyone has an opinion on BL's, some love em and some hate em, but there is plenty of good info either way.
11-04-2006, 11:08 AM
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I see where you are coming from, however a quality suspension lift is designed to keep everything at stock angles. Your driveshafts will be at a slightly greater angle, but not so much that they are affected. Its the larger tires that stress the joints and bearings, not the lift kit itself. I have owned BL's, not on toyota, and suspension lifts and I will always choose a suspension lift. I havent had anything wear out prematurley from a suspension lift.
Personally I dont like body lifts becuase it works like a breaker bar on a wrench does. You raise the vertical center of gravity above the suspension. It takes effort to induce body roll. Where as on a suspension lift the force acting on the suspension hasnt changed. Search around here, you will find that just about everyone has an opinion on BL's, some love em and some hate em, but there is plenty of good info either way.
Personally I dont like body lifts becuase it works like a breaker bar on a wrench does. You raise the vertical center of gravity above the suspension. It takes effort to induce body roll. Where as on a suspension lift the force acting on the suspension hasnt changed. Search around here, you will find that just about everyone has an opinion on BL's, some love em and some hate em, but there is plenty of good info either way.
There is still one thing that a body lift has that a suspension lift doesn't and that is price. It is far less expensive for me to put a body lift in than a suspension.
Here's the deal. I don't want to spend a lot of cash and I don't (unfortunatly) don't get off road much except for deer hunting. Also, it is a daily driver. I am, however, looking for a local off road group to hook up with. Based on that, what would you guys recommend?
11-06-2006, 11:09 AM
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I'd still go for a suspention lift. As stated above, Add-a-leaf kits are availiable and not too pricey, and ball joint spacers arn't too shabby(I liked mine).
The added bonus to a suspention lift, especially an add-a-leaf route, is that you will increase the amount of weight you can put in your box without it squatting down.
The added bonus to a suspention lift, especially an add-a-leaf route, is that you will increase the amount of weight you can put in your box without it squatting down.
11-07-2006, 06:32 PM
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We shall see how mine goes after xmas when I get some cash, shouldnt be to hard to install at home either. I really think the BJ spacers and the rear leaf pack will work well enough for me.
I may add a 1" 4crawler bodylift later on but I think I can squeeze 33's on there with no problems on the rear and the front I may have to hammer the pinch weld on the fender.
Total cost if you do the work yourself is only about 400 bucks, which isnt bad. I think it is way better than a body lift.
In the mean time, you should also look into replacing your shocks with some bilstein HD, ranchos or pro comps to improve your ride further.
I may add a 1" 4crawler bodylift later on but I think I can squeeze 33's on there with no problems on the rear and the front I may have to hammer the pinch weld on the fender.
Total cost if you do the work yourself is only about 400 bucks, which isnt bad. I think it is way better than a body lift.
In the mean time, you should also look into replacing your shocks with some bilstein HD, ranchos or pro comps to improve your ride further.
11-08-2006, 06:08 PM
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We shall see how mine goes after xmas when I get some cash, shouldnt be to hard to install at home either. I really think the BJ spacers and the rear leaf pack will work well enough for me.
I may add a 1" 4crawler bodylift later on but I think I can squeeze 33's on there with no problems on the rear and the front I may have to hammer the pinch weld on the fender.
Total cost if you do the work yourself is only about 400 bucks, which isnt bad. I think it is way better than a body lift.
In the mean time, you should also look into replacing your shocks with some bilstein HD, ranchos or pro comps to improve your ride further.
I may add a 1" 4crawler bodylift later on but I think I can squeeze 33's on there with no problems on the rear and the front I may have to hammer the pinch weld on the fender.
Total cost if you do the work yourself is only about 400 bucks, which isnt bad. I think it is way better than a body lift.
In the mean time, you should also look into replacing your shocks with some bilstein HD, ranchos or pro comps to improve your ride further.
11-08-2006, 06:14 PM
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What's what
I want to add one more twist to the conversation. I know what size (31x10.50), but what brand do you guys recommend? I know people have there prefrences, but I'm leaning to BFG AT's but considering Goodyear Wranglers ATs. Whatcha think?
11-08-2006, 06:54 PM
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I cannot explain it any better than 4Crawler can: http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/ForSale/...ml#Description
I think my whole system is shaping up, I conversed with 4Crawler today on the BJ spacers and he gave me the green light. You can fit 33x12.5" tires if you choose 15x8 wheels with a 4.75" backspace. I dont know if we really need the backspace, b/c that setup is for 4runners, pickups and tacos-we may not need anything at all besides hammering the pinch weld flat.
See this page for more info: http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/ForSale/...it.shtml#FAQ10
I have been slowly researching everything needed to do the perfect mild 2" or so lift without buying an expensive kit. The main thing is all the kits for this truck use rear blocks for a lift-this will cause axle wrap: http://www.google.com/search?q=defin...en-US:official
Which is very, very bad and could tear your rearend apart. Thats why I am slowly and carefully working out the parts list-thus far for a overall 1.5" lift which should work very nicely you need:
Rear:
Deaver Racing 1.5" Lift Progressive Add A Leaf Kit: 190.00 Replaces factory overload with a 3 leaf progressive add a leaf kit. Includes U-bolts. http://www.wheelersoffroad.com/donahoetundra.htm Get 6.75” U-bolts since your not using blocks.
Maybe also need shackles for rear - I dont know? 1.0", 1.5” or 1 5/8” depending on the lift desired. http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/ForSale/Shackles.shtml
<I dont think we need them, but later on maybe-dunno at this time>
Front:
1. 4Crawler ball joint spacers
2. 4Crawler roger brown front 1-1.5” body lift
3. may need a 1” diff drop to reduce cv angles http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/ForSale/DiffDrop.shtml
I dont know for sure but we may only need the ball joint spacers and to hammer the weld on the inner fender behind the tire depending on the wheels and tires run.
That whole kit averages out to maybe 500 dollars if you install it all yourself, figure the BJ spacers and the springpack that gave you 1.5" cost 300 bucks + shipping, throw in another 200 or so for the body lift, shackles and the diff drop if needed. However with the larger height of our trucks already I figure we can get away with the 1.5" BJ spacers and that leaf pack. And get a good amount of flex.
For reference Erik over @ 4x4wire has a T100 that he installed a custom 4" lift on. After discussing my plan with him and another member of 4x4wire we agreed what I want to do is doable and will gain you about 1.5-2" lift overall without using a body lift. Both of them commented that I should be able to fit 33x12.5's in thier perhaps stock or with a 4.75" backspaced wheel. This is what it will possibly look like: http://home.4x4wire.com/erik/t100/t100-bikes2.jpg
I figure if the total kit I build out of mostly 4Crawlers parts and that leaf pack is good it will negate even bothering to do anything else. The worst that can happen is I need to do the a small body lift, possibly add rear shackles for the leaf pack, a differential drop (I dont think so), and the different wheels. But it still costs less than a total kit and will be better made and out of better materials than a procomp or other such lift. The only other thing I dont know for nor is if I need longer shocks, but I doubt it for such a mild lift-we shall see though.
After xmas when I can finally start ordering the parts I will begin the build, I figure it should work out nicely. I plan on laying out my whole plan to Roger over @ 4crawler as well as asking Erik and others over at the 4x4wire T100 forum and here as well. I want as much feedback as possible. This guy is the lift I am modeling mine after a bit: http://www.4x4wire.com/toyota/hottoy/west/
When combined with a mild rear suspension lift, either a lift shackle or block or coil spring spacer, and possibly a mild body lift, it is easy and relatively inexpensive to fit 33" tires under an IFS truck. While a full 4" IFS spacer lift can be installed and will work fine for 33" tires, for less than 1/2 the price and less than half the time and effort, you can install a milder lift that will actually work better than the taller lift. In fitting with the 4Crawler Offroad motto of "lift as much as you need, but as little as possible", why use a 4" lift when 1.5"-2.5" will work just as well, if not better? With less lift, your center of gravity will be lower, driveline angles will be less, brake lines will usually not need to be extended, and overall there will be less stress on the components.
See this page for more info: http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/ForSale/...it.shtml#FAQ10
I have been slowly researching everything needed to do the perfect mild 2" or so lift without buying an expensive kit. The main thing is all the kits for this truck use rear blocks for a lift-this will cause axle wrap: http://www.google.com/search?q=defin...en-US:official
Which is very, very bad and could tear your rearend apart. Thats why I am slowly and carefully working out the parts list-thus far for a overall 1.5" lift which should work very nicely you need:
Rear:
Deaver Racing 1.5" Lift Progressive Add A Leaf Kit: 190.00 Replaces factory overload with a 3 leaf progressive add a leaf kit. Includes U-bolts. http://www.wheelersoffroad.com/donahoetundra.htm Get 6.75” U-bolts since your not using blocks.
Maybe also need shackles for rear - I dont know? 1.0", 1.5” or 1 5/8” depending on the lift desired. http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/ForSale/Shackles.shtml
<I dont think we need them, but later on maybe-dunno at this time>
Front:
1. 4Crawler ball joint spacers
2. 4Crawler roger brown front 1-1.5” body lift
3. may need a 1” diff drop to reduce cv angles http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/ForSale/DiffDrop.shtml
I dont know for sure but we may only need the ball joint spacers and to hammer the weld on the inner fender behind the tire depending on the wheels and tires run.
That whole kit averages out to maybe 500 dollars if you install it all yourself, figure the BJ spacers and the springpack that gave you 1.5" cost 300 bucks + shipping, throw in another 200 or so for the body lift, shackles and the diff drop if needed. However with the larger height of our trucks already I figure we can get away with the 1.5" BJ spacers and that leaf pack. And get a good amount of flex.
For reference Erik over @ 4x4wire has a T100 that he installed a custom 4" lift on. After discussing my plan with him and another member of 4x4wire we agreed what I want to do is doable and will gain you about 1.5-2" lift overall without using a body lift. Both of them commented that I should be able to fit 33x12.5's in thier perhaps stock or with a 4.75" backspaced wheel. This is what it will possibly look like: http://home.4x4wire.com/erik/t100/t100-bikes2.jpg
I figure if the total kit I build out of mostly 4Crawlers parts and that leaf pack is good it will negate even bothering to do anything else. The worst that can happen is I need to do the a small body lift, possibly add rear shackles for the leaf pack, a differential drop (I dont think so), and the different wheels. But it still costs less than a total kit and will be better made and out of better materials than a procomp or other such lift. The only other thing I dont know for nor is if I need longer shocks, but I doubt it for such a mild lift-we shall see though.
After xmas when I can finally start ordering the parts I will begin the build, I figure it should work out nicely. I plan on laying out my whole plan to Roger over @ 4crawler as well as asking Erik and others over at the 4x4wire T100 forum and here as well. I want as much feedback as possible. This guy is the lift I am modeling mine after a bit: http://www.4x4wire.com/toyota/hottoy/west/
Don clears 33" BFGoodrich Mud Terrains on American Racing Outlaw II wheels with a 1" 4Crawler body lift and tweeked stock suspension. The front supsension utilizes cranked torsion bars, low profile bump stops, Rancho RS9000 shocks, and a modified (read: hammered) fender seam for clearance. The rear suspension consists of stock leaves with an add-a-leaf, 4Crawler extended shackles, and Rancho RS5000 shocks.
Last edited by CJM; 11-08-2006 at 06:56 PM.
11-08-2006, 07:48 PM
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wondering
will the ball joint spacer and add a leaf work on my truck?
i have a 97 t100, 2wd. ext cab
i have a 3inch body lift. and i have very happy with it. but i would like adding another 2 inches or so with a lift that is descibed here.
would the add-a-leaf affect the shocks?
i have a 97 t100, 2wd. ext cab
i have a 3inch body lift. and i have very happy with it. but i would like adding another 2 inches or so with a lift that is descibed here.
would the add-a-leaf affect the shocks?
