spaugh

Is there a reason for the stock heat range? NGK is suggesting 1 step colder plug for every 75-100 HP that your modified engine is making and URD is pushing the 2 step colder denso plugs.

It looks like the BKR7EIX-11 plugs are the same as the denso IK22s at half the cost too. I do have knock issues even with a URD timing adjuster and fuel mods, so I'm thinking colder plugs are a must. By the way, the K22 copper 2 step colder plugs that I'm currently running are not fouled at all, in fact they are very light brown almost looking like they are running too hot even with the mods.

rimpainter.com

Are your fuel/timing maps tweaked properly? Even with the "wrong" plugs you should be able to tune out audible ping.

Are you running the NAPA 170* thermostat?

Some other things I did to reduce HG/LR ping were:
1) Do the TB coolant bypass mod. I've been running it for 3 years now with no issues. It doesn't mess up your idle and, being that you're in SD, you should have no concerns with icing.
2) Wrap the fuel line in heat reflective tape.
3) Use Redline Water Wetter with a much higher water ratio

I agree though, get the 2-step colder plugs from URD. I have gone through 2 sets in 3 years (changed them out as a precautionary measure).

mt_goat

X2... how much retard do you have on your timing map? What's your A/F ratio running?

mt_goat

http://www.ngksparkplugs.com/product.../iridiumix.asp

Yeah those look very similar to the IK22. Personally I have not had good results with the IK22 though and these look like to me to have the same problem. The problem is the ground strap is not iridium, its not even platinum, just the center electrode is iridium and with our wasted spark ignition system the ground strap wears out too fast. 2 ground straps would be better (like Toyota recommends for this engine) but that's just so it will last longer. IK22 may be the best plug out there for us, but I'm not happy with mine. I'm still searching for a better choice.

dannie

I will be very interested in what all you do to fix this problem. I've read all the URD stuff and I can't afford the 7th injector kit or the 6 injector mod. I'm not crazy about Bosch either, but when you do get those from URD you get a wiring harness to attach to the oem injector harness. I was wondering if I could just add a little at a time. I would love to know what type piggy back controller you use and I was also curious if you have to drop the tank to change out the fuel pump. Let me know please.

mt_goat

I didn't drop the tank for that, I raised the bed on one side. Tip: Just loosen the bolts on the side you don't raise, don't take them all the way out. It helps if you look at some body lift instructions: http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/ForSale/...ft_HowTo.shtml

rimpainter.com

On a 4R you have to drop the tank - at least I did. Taco's are different.

As for piecing stuff together, yes, you can do that if you wish. Just remember every time you floor it there's a greater risk of engine failure if you don't have ultimate control of the AFR and timing.

mt_goat

I assume he has a T-100, no?

rimpainter.com

Sorry Dale, I was responding to Dannie's post. I should have quoted it.

mt_goat

So was I, he has a 4runner?

rimpainter.com

I don't know. I just stated what I did. Maybe I didn't need to drop the tank after all. (?)

mastacox

You have to drop the tank to change the fuel pump on a 4Runner (I did too). In a truck you can be a little sneaky by jacking up the bed, but I'm not sure that's much easier than dropping the tank.

http://wheezingyak.com/fuelpump.html

spaugh

fuel air ratio is good around 12:1. richer under high rev open loop full boost.

I think I need to add some more retard. The thing is, I am pulling a 5,000lb trailer over mountain passes. If I'm not above 3,000 rpms, its not good.

I love the toyota, but I'm getting a dodge cummins soon, the yota just ain't cut'n it for towing.

mt_goat

Wow, that's a hard pull for a little 3.4. Bet the coolant and oil temps get pretty high doing that.

spaugh

you ain't kiddin. But I'll tell you this truck is die hard. I just did a timing belt at 120K. The blower has been on there for all 120K. Still runs great. Did a compression test and all cylinders read 170 with no throttle open and 210 psi with full throttle on. I assume the blower was making my compression so high even with just the starter motor speeds. The original timing belt looked great, could have gone a lot longer, all cylinders are in good shape as far as I can tell, and the truck has definetly been worked hard but still running excellent. Truck never gets overheated even pulling the trailer over the passes with AC blasting and truck running at 4500rpms 6lbs of boost for half an hour straight at a time. Running 25% peak long lasting coolant the rest water with a bottle of water wetter and using castrol GTX every 3K when towing.

rimpainter.com

Holy moley, I wouldn't want to be your EGT gauge.

dannie

Sorry guys, I just saw that this post had a second page. No I have a 97 T100 with 5 speed. The thing about the 5 speed is I know about when it will knock so it's a little easier to control than with an automatic.

maui taco 808

i had a 99 taco with s/c man trans and had no problems. i now have a 04 taco auto trans just put in a s/c and was wondering if anybody had any problems with the trans with no mods. in input would be cool thanks

mylittletacoma

I got a set of Denso dual ground, 1 heat range colder than stock, i forget the number, but they helped me alot with fouling in my sc taco.