sided00r

So I'm troubleshooting my fuel delivery, anyway, the blue fuel power wire is attached to the pump bracket with this sealed rubbery lock, there is green corrosion evident in there, I wouldn't worry but the pump doesn't always kick and I'm not getting regular voltage to it all the time, and I also have a second pump I want to try in there. It often kicks with the AFM flap open, but not as often with B+Fp jumpered. Anyway, besides the point, when I just tried this morning with B+Fp jumpered, I watched SPARKS FLY from the little area see where there's a tear in the plastic before the connector - I had sealed it with liquid tape but pried it up again when I was going through wiring. Sparks flying around fuel tank = REALLY NOT SAFE. So I'm held up again now.

So my QUESTIONS are:

POWER:
1A Can I tear up the surface of the scotchlok, clean the green stuff, apply dielectric grease until I find a more permanent repair to that area?
1B Can I alternatively for now just wrap TAPE around the injured area at the connector to prevent sparks, I don't understand the reason WHY SPARKS ARE FLYING THERE.
GROUND:
2A. If I attach a separate wire to GROUND the thing, would sparks be less likely? If so, see 2B, I am not sure if i can ground it well.
2B The ground attached to the top of the bracket is attached to a rusted protrusion. I have zero clue how to get that off of there to clean up underneath, again, without permanent damage - is there some way to repair a locked ground connection - maybe I can wrap a length of wire onto the ground that's inside attached to the bracket, feed it up through a lid screwhole, and bring it somewhere that seems like a good place to ground???

Really I just want to try both pumps for troubleshooting today, but these connectors have me down.

wyoming9

iTrader: (1)

it is arcing because of a bad connection!!( patching will not fix the problem!! )

Which will cause what ever connection there to shortly be burnt to the point it does not work at all.

I would spend the money and buy a new fuel pump bracket or pull that one out and spend a few hours cleaning it.

resolder and heat shrink the connections

Both those connections if you want to get real fancy you can drill them out but I would just cut and resolder the connections.

I can`t see how you got the fuel lines off with out breaking.:jessica:

Leviticus6432

This is really ghetto... but i was on a budget... My fuel line broke right there at the bend coming out of the sending unit. I ended up drilling through the top and running some brake line from napa through. I then jb welded it in. It has held up for years. Just sayin you might wanna try something like that and replace the whole sending unit with all that rust you got there. and I agree with wyoming... replace all connections and solder.

sided00r

Well i took wyoming's advice best i could at 5 am, it's noon now, i scuffed off some rust and re-attached the wires best i could...pretty new at all this speaking of ghetto, what a mess, get mostly soldered then the whole thing slips off [sigh]. But i'm done and i get 0.00 ohms going through both. When I started de-rusting i noticed the ground wire was loose in my hand - terminal crumbled in two though rest of the copper from a cm back looks ok...

I will probly show a photo later with another question cause I'm not real clear how to protect the power wire, i tore open the gel cap and patched the wire there but i hesitate to drill through that one. Rather wait on a new bracket. I really don't think much of those gel cap scotch lock things. PITA

I did have the fuel supply line get kinked from trying to work the nearby big nut loose, then it got a pinhole but i cut that part out and clamped hose on, holding fine for now.

So NEW QUESTION, I'm about to go grasp the concept of 'voltage drop testing', but i read you can make a problem if say you touched a screwdriver to two things at the same time, so my question is can that happen when you're voltage drop testing? Is caution required what i put the red and black probes to??

???

And thank you SO MUCH for the guidance

wyoming9

iTrader: (1)

As long as you don`t ground the wire that has voltage most often the white/black is the ground.

best way to protect the wire is to heat shrink putting it on before you attach the wire moving it back far enough so the heat from soldering does not shrink it before it is in place.

If it is to late for the option a good grade of silicone allowed to cure before reinstalling.

Yes those scotch-Lok connectors are made for people to lazy to make connections correct:jessica:

sided00r

Well i'll be f'n damned, fixing those fuel pump wires, and swapping out the pump, and additionally swapping the EFI fuse which blew probly when the sparks went off, and then i got the pump to come on again today with the AFM flap open, and I had listened to the injectors ticking a moment before, and I said, hell, no reason this truck can't run, twisted to start, AND MY TRUCK STARTED!!!! It's been six long weeks man. I am so fn happy. It was the wiring at the pump.