Installed two power outlets
07-01-2010, 01:44 AM
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Installed two power outlets
Thanks to yotatech and other boards. I used info from various write ups and threads, to come up with my power outlet install. Just bought this 4Runner a few months ago. Other recent mods were bigger tires and ISR mod. Many more planned.
Bought the outlets from Walmart, in line fuse from ACE. Connected it to the battery with a toggle switch in between. Placed on passenger side of console. It works!
Bought the outlets from Walmart, in line fuse from ACE. Connected it to the battery with a toggle switch in between. Placed on passenger side of console. It works!
07-01-2010, 10:33 AM
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07-01-2010, 08:02 PM
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07-01-2010, 08:18 PM
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Nice install, but Scuba is right...I know, I know...
I'd be worried about runnin amps thru that switch, causing it to heat up and eventually melt. I had this problem with driving lights(55w) pulling 4.5 amps thru toggle switches. It wasn't an immediate melt down, but after lot of use I couldn't figure out why the switches weren't working. Now if you are just going to plug in cell chargers and SMALL items then you'll "probably" be ok. I would also recommend a relay too.
The nice thing about a relay though is you could mount it right there by the switches or next to the battery. Then you can run a 20 gauge wire from the switch to the relay and free up space under the dash and you don't have huge wires runnin all over. You done good with the inline fuse which is RIGHT next to the battery...right, RIGHT?
It's so simple even a Scuba can do it....
I'd be worried about runnin amps thru that switch, causing it to heat up and eventually melt. I had this problem with driving lights(55w) pulling 4.5 amps thru toggle switches. It wasn't an immediate melt down, but after lot of use I couldn't figure out why the switches weren't working. Now if you are just going to plug in cell chargers and SMALL items then you'll "probably" be ok. I would also recommend a relay too.
The nice thing about a relay though is you could mount it right there by the switches or next to the battery. Then you can run a 20 gauge wire from the switch to the relay and free up space under the dash and you don't have huge wires runnin all over. You done good with the inline fuse which is RIGHT next to the battery...right, RIGHT?
It's so simple even a Scuba can do it....
07-01-2010, 08:50 PM
#10
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lol yes.. i'd relay it as well. pin 30 to the sockets/lights/etc, pin 87 to the fuse->battery pin 86 to the switch, pin 85 to the ground. easy peasy lemon squeezie.
07-01-2010, 11:54 PM
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Yes the fuse is next to the battery. Don't know what "pin" means. I will try a search for installing a relay. None of tech articles/write-ups mention a relay. I am confused as to why these tech articles are allowed/showcased if they are not safe.
07-02-2010, 12:13 AM
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07-02-2010, 08:29 AM
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AZTOYOTA -
I respectfully disagree with some parts of this thread. As long as you got the right switch, it is no more likely to catch on fire with 20 amps than is the right relay with 20amps.
The advantage of using a relay is mostly aesthetic; you can use an itsy-bitsy switch where you can see it, and a big-honking relay tucked out of the way. And, as BigBluePile points out, this may help you limit the amount of heavy cable you're running. For instance, you always see relays in headlight circuits because the headlights themselves are out there near to the battery; no point running 10gauge cable back into the tiny stalk control. But for a power outlet, you've got to run the "heavy" cable all the way to the outlet anyway.
The "pins" Tofer is referring to sound like the pinouts on certain common automotive relays. But there is no guarantee that you'll get the same relay he's talking about, so be sure to read the documentation.
The point is to read the package for your switch (and your wire, and your fuse holder, and your relay, and your power outlet); is it rated for the current you plan to run through it? If not, putting a relay into the mess only deals with a single issue (switch too small).
I respectfully disagree with some parts of this thread. As long as you got the right switch, it is no more likely to catch on fire with 20 amps than is the right relay with 20amps.
The advantage of using a relay is mostly aesthetic; you can use an itsy-bitsy switch where you can see it, and a big-honking relay tucked out of the way. And, as BigBluePile points out, this may help you limit the amount of heavy cable you're running. For instance, you always see relays in headlight circuits because the headlights themselves are out there near to the battery; no point running 10gauge cable back into the tiny stalk control. But for a power outlet, you've got to run the "heavy" cable all the way to the outlet anyway.
The "pins" Tofer is referring to sound like the pinouts on certain common automotive relays. But there is no guarantee that you'll get the same relay he's talking about, so be sure to read the documentation.
The point is to read the package for your switch (and your wire, and your fuse holder, and your relay, and your power outlet); is it rated for the current you plan to run through it? If not, putting a relay into the mess only deals with a single issue (switch too small).
07-02-2010, 09:18 AM
#16
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Probably like this...
So you read anything and think it is a good idea? If so, I have a bridge I can sell you.
Even with a fuse, the way its wired, that switch is handling the current that is being put through it. The switch could melt before the fuse pops
A relay would tell the outlets when they can have power. Give the relay power and it tells the lights they can have power. I'm no electrician, or an electrical engineer. So I won't try to preach. But theres tons of stuff on the internet about relays. You can educate yourself.
read me
read
read
It would take an hour to add a relay.
Even with a fuse, the way its wired, that switch is handling the current that is being put through it. The switch could melt before the fuse pops
A relay would tell the outlets when they can have power. Give the relay power and it tells the lights they can have power. I'm no electrician, or an electrical engineer. So I won't try to preach. But theres tons of stuff on the internet about relays. You can educate yourself.
read me
read
read
It would take an hour to add a relay.
07-02-2010, 11:05 AM
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I searched for and found how to install a relay when first mentioned by scuba. I understand the concept of it, and how to install it. I want power without engine on or acc. on. A relay will prevent this, right? I appreciate the responses and info on this thread.
Last edited by AZTOYOTA; 07-02-2010 at 11:09 AM.
07-02-2010, 12:43 PM
#18
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no.. just hook the relay to the battery.. a relay works like a 2nd switch.. you turn it off or on by sending a small amount of electricity to it (this is why your able to run a small gauge wire to the switch in the cab.. it doesnt take much draw all your doing by flipping the switch in the cab is turning on the relay) once you flip the relay it the connects the source (lights etc) to the battery via larger gauge wire.
as far as your current set up, you should be fine the way its wired.. you're not usually pulling THAT much through the 12v port, cell chargers, dvd players, etc pull small amounts of electricity.. but adding a relay is more erroring on the side of caution.. once of prevention > lb of cure kinda thing.
as far as your current set up, you should be fine the way its wired.. you're not usually pulling THAT much through the 12v port, cell chargers, dvd players, etc pull small amounts of electricity.. but adding a relay is more erroring on the side of caution.. once of prevention > lb of cure kinda thing.
07-02-2010, 03:22 PM
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Sorry for no punctuation trying a new app on my phone that controls the computer
i dont know how a lighter plug works but why does it look like there is only a positive going to the lighter plugs
Last edited by alil2cul4u; 07-02-2010 at 03:23 PM.
07-03-2010, 12:07 AM
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