4Crawler

iTrader: (3)

Sorry, missed that test in your results. But that says, someplace between 100 and 200 is what it needs. Not sure what current the LED pulls, but the resistors would be pulling between 70mA and 140mA. If you wanted to check the LED current, if you have a digital meter, put it into current/amps mode and put that meter in series with the LED.

ThatGuy1295

Didnt know that. Ill do that, would be helpfull to know what there drawing.

ThatGuy1295

Well I tried these:

http://www.carid.com/2001-toyota-tac...FUlxQgods04Asg

Same deal. Works only with the key on. And they said they require no modifying. Guess all leds need a resistor for these particular trucks.

ThatGuy1295

I emailed the website were I got the light.

They actually wrote back apologized, and called me the next day. Thiere suggestion was to use a 6ohm 50watt resistor. No were near what I was trying. But the fact that they were so quick to respond and willing to help, well thats pretty cool in my book.

Looking at those resistor's, those appear to be what lots of people use for led blinkers. Guess it would be the same for domes. Its all 12v anyways. Funny I tried searching for a resistor that was the same resistance as the original bulbs, and no info to be found. Maybe I didnt search good enough, but Im still surprised on the lack of people talking about this problem that faces many people with led swaps. I even read a post from one guy saying " my led dome lights are so powerfull they only work with the ignition on." Right, cause thats why they dont work right . Geeess... Will I'm goina try me a 6ohm 50watt and let ya know what happens.

And the other thing, those resistors are big. To big to fit into the light socket with the light. Sooo, they need to be put inline somewhere else then.

ThatGuy1295

My second thought is this:



Cuting were the red circle and line is. The splicing that wire in with the hot next to it.

As a result all leds would work fine. And you would have full functionality of your door switches and lights. Only loss would be the auto lights off timer function thats there to keep your battery from dying if you leave your domes on. But with leds who cares, they dont use electricity anyways. About .1 watt.

ThatGuy1295

Just did what I mentioned above, and thats exactly what it did. Worked awesome. And the only side affect is you lose auto power off timer for the domes. These leds are really bright so I dont think ill forget there on, or even if I do it would take months to drain the battery's. But everything else still works, lights turn off when you close the door, and turn on when you open it, and all that stuff.

Since nobody actually knows where the integration relay is for these trucks, and I couldnt find it without tearing the dash apart and actually tracing wires I had to go here to find the black wire:

Drivers side pillar



Cut the black wire before the split, and connect it to a new wire that you run back down into the dash and tap into any hot. Make sure its one thats always hot, not an accessory wire. And cap the old one as you can see I did, its still a hot when the key is on and you dont wanna short out your integration relay cause youll never find it. Then bam, you can run any led you want without screwing with resistors that get red hot and waste more energy then a regular light bulb.

I found a few places on the web that shows were they think the integration relay is, but thats really not were it is, Its definetly part of the big cluster of wires going into the fuse panel under the dash, buuut, were,, I dont know. And dont care either, this worked great.

4Crawler

iTrader: (3)

That is basically how the earlier trucks are wired. My '85 just has an always hot wire feeding the dome light and then either the door switch or the switch on the dome light supplies a ground path to turn on the light or LED. I have a 1 watt LED, so that pulls about 0.08 amps. Could probably be left on a week and not kill the battery. I rarely use the dome switch, just as easy to pop the door open a bit if I need some light inside.

ThatGuy1295

Exactlly, my 89 is that way. Its what made me look for a way to change the 01. Of coarse I didnt want to lose any features. But im ok without the auto thingy. In fact ive never needed it, but I did notice the domes kick off after an hour or so while camping one time. We were up late drinking and playin the stereo as loud as it could go in woods. Dual batteries sure helped with that night. Didnt have to get a jump the next afternoon. Not next morning, didnt wake up that early gees.

TRDevelopment

Hey 4crawler Im in need of your help again. So I finally got to do some more digging trying to see if I could find out this interior light problem. I just went ahead and pulled all the led bulbs out in the dome and interior light sockets to start over. I found out that the dome light 7.5amp fuse keeps blowing and was blown when I test the interior fuse box. As soon as I put another 7.5amp fuse it blows it. So I figure I have a short to ground somewhere in the circuit. My question is Im looking at the wiring schematic and the dome light circuits, the power wire taps into the stop 15amp fuse(which is not blown) and then goes the door control relay and taillight relay, I visually looked at the wires starting from the fuse box and going to the door control relay and found nothing. Then I ran a test light from the positive side of the battery all the way to the dome light socket terminal(the side of the switch) and it lite up. I tested this with the passenger side door open and when I pushed in the door switch in the door jamb nothing changed,the test light was still on. What do you think I should do next? Sorry if I sound vague, im a little over my head and im not really a electrician. I do have access to a dvom if I need to use it.

4Crawler

iTrader: (3)

Hard to say, but the dome light circuit works on a floating ground sort of setup, that is nothing is grounded normally. Only the door switches supply the ground to turn lights on. So any unintentional ground connection will cause the problems you are describing. Any chance you have any after market electronics hooked up to that circuit? Radio, CD player, or anything with a back light like a gauge? All those devices often have back lights and those back lights are usually hard grounded to the case and if you hook the dome light circuit to one of those devices, you can pick up a ground connection. Could also be a "ground" wire that had its insulation rubber off and is now grounded all the time. Those wires usually run through the a-pillar from the roof down to the driver's side door hinge area.

TRDevelopment

I do not have any factory lighting or radio as of right now. Matter of fact the radio harness is cut but I know none of the wires on the radio harness are touching each other. As mention above the PO did have an aftermarket alarm that I pulled out when I bought the truck. Im going to take a look on the a pillar and see if I could find anything thats causing the wires to ground to the body.

4Crawler

iTrader: (3)

Check all the places the old alarm was connected to, those alarms are notorious for causing problems. The other thing to look for is any sort of trailer wiring plug in back, if those are connected wrong, they can cause problems as well.

TRDevelopment

Ill go ahead and check the wires again and see if I spot anything. I dont have a trailer wiring plug in back. The truck never came with one.

4Crawler

iTrader: (3)

Might want to take a look in back for a trailer plug anyway. On my '85, the PO had actually installed one but it was tucked away behind the trim panel in the back of the bed, where the jack is stored. I guess he only towed with the truck once or twice so did not leave the plug out. Turns out he did not have the plug completely wired properly so I finished it up. But the wiring convertor box still causes some minor problems, if I run LED turn signal bulbs, at night when the other lights are on, my dash turn signal indicator will slowly brighten then dim all on it's own. Also one of the tail light LED bulbs will have a faint glow when the truck is off. I suspect there is some minor current leak in the convertor box. Never bothered looking for it and I just put regular turn signal bulbs in and all seems to be fine. I think the regular turn signal bulbs are more visible anyway.

TRDevelopment

I just checked for any sort of wiring for a trailer and came up with nothing. I also looked at all the wires going to the fuse box where the alarm was and no trace of anything that could be grounded or cause a short. I think Im going to tackle this a pillar and see what I come up with.

4Crawler

iTrader: (3)

See if you can divide up that circuit half and then try and isolate the problem to one half or the other. So find some place you can disconnect the wiring and then see if the fuse still blows or not. The keep dividing and working towards the source of the problem.

And in place of the fuse, see if you can rig up a light bulb and some wires to plug into the fuse holder. Then that bulb should light up as long as a short exists (assuming you have the dome bulb and any door bulbs out). Keep going until the bulb goes out.

TRDevelopment

Where do you think would be the easiest to divide the circuit from? I have the whole dash out of the rig right now so its easy to disconnect relays, fuses etc. Im going to try this light bulb method your talking about and see what I come up with.

4Crawler

iTrader: (3)

Never messed with that circuit, but just pick a spot that is easy to get to and go from there. Not a lot to that dome light circuit. Probably try unplugging the light reminder relay, try disconnecting one or both door switches. You just want to eliminate as many good parts of the circuit as you can and then what is left will have the bad part.

TRDevelopment

Door control relay, light reminder relay, both door switches are all unpluged and the lightbulb is still on .

4Crawler

iTrader: (3)

So that means that the problem lies in what is left of the circuit. Might need to break the circuit at some point (i.e. cut or disconnect a wire) and see if you can isolate the problem to either the power or ground side of the wiring.