3.4 swap almost done, high idle and no pedal action?
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3.4 swap almost done, high idle and no pedal action?
I hate to have this be my first post, but my project is almost complete and this is my d/d so I'm in a desperate state right now. Let me begin by saying I have gotten a lot of good info off this site and believe there may be a person out there who can help me out and make some money. I have 25.00 to give from my PP account to the person who can accurately diagnose and hlep me fix my problem. Here's what's going on as I can describe to the best of my ability. The engine is in, the wire harness has been spliced. When the engine was pulled the engine wire harness had the 3 engine plugs and the 2 body plugs (IK2 & IK6) 5 total. The ECU had the 2 remaining plugs that tapped in the power, ABS ECU, etc. Everything works great, it fires up no problem and high idles, no problem. The problem is the idle does not go down. I can press the gas in about halfway to the floor and nothing happens when it is high-idling like there is no tension on the cable. Alternately I can go to the engine bay and rotate the throttle assy and there's nothing there till about half way. I kill the engine go to the bay and rotate the throttle again. Halfway up it sounds like a gate or metal valve is being actutated. I'm under the impression that as the vehicle warms, this valve slowly drops as the idle does, which would give more pedal feel? The engine will high-idle till it's warm, never drops. I'm under the impression that this is the IAC or the Thottle control motor. I have a hard time beleiving these are bad as the engine only has 23k (rollover) when pulled. I'm wondering if my wiring is correct. I have the OBD-II conn hooked up but no scan tool, no CEL after 5 minutes of running. All the large w/r wires were hooked up through the EFI circuit which were the main power leads for the engine functions. The only wire I couldn't place was a pink one and there was no mention of it in the FSM. Does anybody know why this valve isn't droping? Anybody else have this problem and fixed it. I'm gonna go out and tinker today. If I figure out the problem myself I'll donate the 25.00 to this site for the great information I've gotten. Here are some pics of some of the mods so you can see I'm not a total redneck (just a little), the fan switch in the radiator is the $1.00 M16x1.5 jam nut solder mod (I'll explain in detail if anybody is interested), the gas tank stuff was punched and soldered also for the EVAP...Previewed post and pics aren't there, gonna post anyway and maybe they'll show up
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#2
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I see the images didn't work, here's links
http://i677.photobucket.com/albums/v...yl77/002-2.jpg
http://i677.photobucket.com/albums/v...yl77/006-1.jpg
http://i677.photobucket.com/albums/v...yl77/001-1.jpg
http://i677.photobucket.com/albums/v...yl77/006-2.jpg
Rented diag tool, code P2118 TAC motor current range/performance. Time to check my wires...
http://i677.photobucket.com/albums/v...yl77/002-2.jpg
http://i677.photobucket.com/albums/v...yl77/006-1.jpg
http://i677.photobucket.com/albums/v...yl77/001-1.jpg
http://i677.photobucket.com/albums/v...yl77/006-2.jpg
Rented diag tool, code P2118 TAC motor current range/performance. Time to check my wires...
#3
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Think I figured it out. After checking the code in the FSM, there is a supplemental wiring diagram that showed a fused ECTS pink wire in the same ECU location as my pink. Hmmm, that would explain no motor action. If it works Yotatech got paid!!
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Problem solved. Pink wire is 15A fused through battery for ETCS control. It's all good!! 20.00 contribution made to Yotatech.... 25.00 wasn't an option....
More pics for anybody in the process of doing this..
Canister mounting, EVAP air inlet filter, tierod and draglink clearance with T100 pan (about 2" up), steering rag joint removal mod (used an oversized alt belt by.3" for worst case scenario situation), and cooling through the 196*on/185*off fan switch from an Avalon (all Avalon 3.0's from early 90's to 96 have this fan switch with a normally open ground to trip the fan relay) p/s return through tranny cooler on radiator....ran it like this with 5MGE with no issues
http://i677.photobucket.com/albums/v...yl77/001-2.jpg
http://i677.photobucket.com/albums/v...yl77/006-3.jpg
http://i677.photobucket.com/albums/v...yl77/009-1.jpg
http://i677.photobucket.com/albums/v...yl77/010-1.jpg
http://i677.photobucket.com/albums/v...yl77/011-1.jpg
More pics for anybody in the process of doing this..
Canister mounting, EVAP air inlet filter, tierod and draglink clearance with T100 pan (about 2" up), steering rag joint removal mod (used an oversized alt belt by.3" for worst case scenario situation), and cooling through the 196*on/185*off fan switch from an Avalon (all Avalon 3.0's from early 90's to 96 have this fan switch with a normally open ground to trip the fan relay) p/s return through tranny cooler on radiator....ran it like this with 5MGE with no issues
http://i677.photobucket.com/albums/v...yl77/001-2.jpg
http://i677.photobucket.com/albums/v...yl77/006-3.jpg
http://i677.photobucket.com/albums/v...yl77/009-1.jpg
http://i677.photobucket.com/albums/v...yl77/010-1.jpg
http://i677.photobucket.com/albums/v...yl77/011-1.jpg
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