Terrys87

iTrader: (1)

I am getting in over my head, but maybe this will bump you to the top and get some more eyes on as electric is my weakness. Since I know your wiring is messed up by PO, was just wondering if your Fusible link is good. It would be a easy check

Also RAD4Runner has some great electric diagrams that might help. Try seeing if there is something in his thread that could help. Link>>>https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f199...ild-up-252300/

Picture of Fusible link. Disconect from positive side of battery and run a resisitance check.

Here is a picture of the Fusible Link. It is connected to 80 amp fuse and to the positive battery cable. The white part is the actual link. Took me awhile to find this out.


Here is the Fusible link attached.


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Here is a better update of the Fusible Link..
When I ran into this on my 88, I thought someone had did a cheap repair job, but it is actually a factory Fusible Link. Chef helped me figure this out back then. It is crimped to the Positve pigtail coming off of your Postive Post.


All of the other fuses lift up and out. The 80 Amp you have to pry this tab to the firewall and push out the bottom.


Here it is mounted to the Fuse. It mounts behind the wires. I usually have to take a 8mm socket to the screws the first time. They can be TIGHT.

Northwestedition22re

Thanks terry,

when i took out the 80a fuse to replace it after it blew I tested the fusable link.

My truck starts and will cut out after 2-3 seconds. Also not getting check engine light with key in on position. Is this afm related do you think? I pulled afm apart and it is opening during the 3-4 seconds in which the truck is running.

Im completely stumped has anyone ever had their check engine light go off causing the engine not to stay running?

Northwestedition22re

also put in brand new co relay

Northwestedition22re

Hey guys still no luck all fuses are good.. maf appears to be good as it is opening and co relay is doing its job aswell.

Nothing at all is explaining how to get the check engine light to com back on in the on position. hope someone has had this problem and can share some insight.

its been almost a week now without my truck. Finally towed it back to my ranch. (its been sitting in the suburbs for 4 days) not an ideal spot to do mechanics as all the assholes drive by and glare at me.

Terrys87

iTrader: (1)

Try seeing where the wire goes to at one in a salvage yard, I made many a run to the salvage for that. Wondering if that isnt what could be biting you in the butt.

The fuse box wiring isnt hard to swap out. I think the injectors disconnect from the box and the fuse box harness basically runs along the core support, headlights and to the alternator. Not bad to swap out if really messed up.

The start for only a few seconds is normally the AFM not hooked up so am wondering about the contacts or where the wiring goes to if it isnt broken in two for the contacts. May need to run resistance checks and I am not the best for advise on following schematics.

Just trying to get a few ideas and possiblities.

Northwestedition22re

Hey terry.

Noticed today my start clutch cancel switch doesnt want to engage when pressed in could this have something to do with it?

The light comes on once i stick the clutch in.. but not on its own.

Terrys87

iTrader: (1)

That isnt right. It should lite up when the key is on and THEN the switch is pushed. That has me back to a wiring issue. You said there were some wiring issues at the fuse box. I would try to correct that wiring to the way the factory had it.

Two other common areas that POs butcher the wiring is where the stereo is and adding trailer lights. On 3 of the 4 trucks that I have mentioned on in my builds, on the 88 pick up they even used stereo wire from the front marker lights to the gas tank and tail lights. No idea what they were trying to accomplish.

Do you have a bunch of butt connectors in your wiring harness? If so, remove them and solder the wires and shrink wrap the joints when done. Those butt connectors are a poor design. At this stage, I would try just getting the wiring back to the way the factory had it. Running resistance checks and with a hack job wiring and butt connectors could have you going in circles.

383COOT

replace the EFI relay in the power distribution center under the hood by the battery it will correct your problem use a Toyota relay nothing else

Derrick Bonham

I have the same problem with my 87 toyota 4cyl 5spd 4x4 I started the truck and it was warm and it died outta nowhere, No check engine light anymore, that was on because of a faulty temp sensor, now I run a jumper to my fp port by my dude box ,,, the truck runs but like 💩 but check engine light comes on after the engine rolls over then it starts if I turn the pump off then back on real quick the truck will come to life but once the rooms drop so does the way it runs

Chev-yoda

I know it's been 11 years since this post was created, but I have an identical issue now and wondering how or if it was resolved?
I have a 1985 Toyota 4Runner 22RE I was replacing the alternator on with the positive battery cable disconnected and it flipped back into position blowing my 80amp fuse. After replacing the fuse I have no check engine light, jumping my diagnostic port does nothing, and my motor starts fine and runs 2 seconds before it dies. I have a fused jumper from my battery directly to my fuel pump byassing the COR circuit and still nothing. If you're still active please let me know what you did. I've been checking wiring, fuses, relays for days and can't find what's causing this. Thanks