Replace 22r piston rings
09-20-2013, 09:47 AM
#1
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Oregon
Posts: 88
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Replace 22r piston rings
My 1983 22r has only 10-15k miles on a rebuild from a reputable shop here in town. The truck sat for 10 plus years with this mileage before I bought it a few weeks ago. It drove great and I worked out a few kinks etc. we'll I noticed a hesitation a couple weeks ago and have tried to track it down, thought I fixed it. When climbing a hill and keep the RPMs at 4k for 30 seconds or more it would billow whitish smoke out the exhaust and then clear up fairly quick after the hill and lowering the RPMs back down. We'll yesterday I went 2 miles and it started smoking really bad under the hood and out of the exhaust. I noticed tons of oil soaking the carb. I pulled the vent line that comes from the valve cover into the air cleaner and it was a choo choo train of blow by. It clogged the air filter with oil and was spurting oil all over the engine bay. I stopped at a 4x4 repair shop that happened to be next to where I had the problems. Bill, the owner pulled the plugs and didn't notice anything too bad he said he expected to see one covered in wet oil. He cleaned them up and we got it starting, he noticed an uneven starter crank and said told me he thinks piston rings on one of the cylinders are bad. Told me it would get me home and i now had a metro 3 cylinder. Anyway, the main question is after doing a compression check today I will probably end up tearing the motor down auto further investigate and I am hoping I can just put new rings on all the pistons and call it good. Since the motor is still low mileage and if the cylinder walls and everything else seems tight would a hone and new rings be a good idea? I just hope nothing is cracked or has a hole.
09-20-2013, 12:05 PM
#2
No way to really know till you have it apart.
It could go either way
See what the compression check tells you.
Good possibility the oil rings rusted fast or are just stuck from sitting all that time.
If the compression is good maybe you can free them up
It could go either way
See what the compression check tells you.
Good possibility the oil rings rusted fast or are just stuck from sitting all that time.
If the compression is good maybe you can free them up
09-20-2013, 02:25 PM
#3
Super Moderator
Staff
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Anderson Missouri
Posts: 11,788
Likes: 0
Received 22 Likes
on
20 Posts
If I understand it right, it had 10-15k miles THEN sat 10 years. I would suspect a stuck ring. I would try and soak the pistons with Marvel Mystery Oil a few days and then hand crank it with the plugs out to get the excess oil out. Then crank it with starter with plugs out to help remove more of the oil. I would then run the truck and eventually do a compression check and see it frees up. It might save you a rebuild. As to your question, I would have a machine shop to check the suspected cylinder and see what he recommends.
You see alot of carshows and they try to fire a motor up about as fast as they can. I did that once and it bit me in the butt, I wont do that again. Any motor that has sat for a long period of time, I soak with MM and then do the above and havent had any problems since.
I have been into two motors where they sat awhile and eventually start smoking. When I tore the motors down, you could see where the rings rusted to the cylinder walls. Had they had some time to soak and break up the rust, it may have not ruined the cylinder walls and broken the ring.
You see alot of carshows and they try to fire a motor up about as fast as they can. I did that once and it bit me in the butt, I wont do that again. Any motor that has sat for a long period of time, I soak with MM and then do the above and havent had any problems since.
I have been into two motors where they sat awhile and eventually start smoking. When I tore the motors down, you could see where the rings rusted to the cylinder walls. Had they had some time to soak and break up the rust, it may have not ruined the cylinder walls and broken the ring.
Last edited by Terrys87; 09-20-2013 at 02:27 PM.
09-20-2013, 04:58 PM
#4
Engine sitting that long.
Give it a couple Red-lines to free up the rings and carbon build-up.
It may help.
If not then you may be looking at deeper investigation into the engine.
Give it a couple Red-lines to free up the rings and carbon build-up.
It may help.
If not then you may be looking at deeper investigation into the engine.
09-20-2013, 11:38 PM
#5
Super Moderator
Staff
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Anderson Missouri
Posts: 11,788
Likes: 0
Received 22 Likes
on
20 Posts
From now on I soak the cylinders and three days later, I turn it over with a breaker bar and soak it again for another three days or so. As tempting as it is to hear it run, it may save you from doing a rebuild. I learned that off of an old Chevy restore site and some of them have had motors that sat for yearsss and no problems.
Also drain all of the fuel out. If you ever notice it leaves a white powder were the old fuel was. In my mind that white powdery stuff is like sand. Todays fuel is not the quality that is was several years ago.
Also drain all of the fuel out. If you ever notice it leaves a white powder were the old fuel was. In my mind that white powdery stuff is like sand. Todays fuel is not the quality that is was several years ago.
09-25-2013, 06:22 PM
#7
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Oregon
Posts: 88
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
So I've checked the plugs two different times after driving when it started this problem and both times the plugs looked perfect with no oil. Just a nice brown tan. After the first plug check I cleaned them up, we'll a mechanic at a shop used a tool to clean them up. They looked good just today after I drove it on the clean plugs they looked fine. Would not a ring out on cylinder 2 likely cause oil on the plug? Maybe I just have a bad valve? Would or could a bad valve or head cause oil to puke out of the air cleaner breather port on the valve cover? Either way I am preparing the garage to take the head off for further inspection but I am curious and have to wait till tomorrow till u can get it in the garage for tear down.
Trending Topics
09-25-2013, 06:45 PM
#8
A broken oil control ring or a damaged piston can cause excessive oil "blow-by" into the combustion camber.
However the cyldiner can have a broken compression ring and not necessarily have excessive "blow-by" but will still carry a loss of compression.
Very possible you could have a valve seating problem and or a damaged cyldiner head/cyldiner block/cyldiner head gasket.
Cylinder leak down test to locate compression loss...?
Check Valve clearance(lash)...?
Sticky valves/springs...?
-Oil "puking" out of the breather on valve cover... VIA "crank case ventilation hose/port?"
If a hose is not connected from the crank case vent on the valve cover to the intake there can be some minor "splash" or "spatter" from the hole.
However you could have and excessive crank case pressure problem if there is poor crank case ventilation VIA the PCV system.
However the cyldiner can have a broken compression ring and not necessarily have excessive "blow-by" but will still carry a loss of compression.
Very possible you could have a valve seating problem and or a damaged cyldiner head/cyldiner block/cyldiner head gasket.
Cylinder leak down test to locate compression loss...?
Check Valve clearance(lash)...?
Sticky valves/springs...?
-Oil "puking" out of the breather on valve cover... VIA "crank case ventilation hose/port?"
If a hose is not connected from the crank case vent on the valve cover to the intake there can be some minor "splash" or "spatter" from the hole.
However you could have and excessive crank case pressure problem if there is poor crank case ventilation VIA the PCV system.
09-25-2013, 06:57 PM
#9
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Oregon
Posts: 88
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
The "PCV" valve and grommet is new and the hose is connected to the intake and seems to being functioning properly. The puking is coming from the hose that is near the front of the vehicle on the cover. Near the oil filler cap. It puked out almost all the oil on a 10 mile drive into a catch can I "rigged" the hose too because it was saturating the air filter above the carb that is was originally located too.
Thanks for the info too.
Thanks for the info too.
09-25-2013, 07:05 PM
#10
Engine oil escaping that much from the crank case vent breather is not normal and sign of excessive crank case pressure.
That excessive crank case pressure assuming the PCV valve/system is functional could indicate compression gases escaping passed the piston(s) VIA damaged rings and ect.
That excessive crank case pressure assuming the PCV valve/system is functional could indicate compression gases escaping passed the piston(s) VIA damaged rings and ect.
09-25-2013, 07:09 PM
#11
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Oregon
Posts: 88
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I'm going to pull the valve cover and check the valves tomorrow. If they look fine or don't lead me to a conclusion I'll proceed with taking the head off tomorrow too. Should know for sure tomorrow.
10-01-2013, 02:06 PM
#12
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Oregon
Posts: 88
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
So I took the head off. Here is some pictures. The stamp on top of the pistons read 1.00mm I believe or 100mm but I think it's 1.00mm which would be .040 over if I'm correct. No cross hatching on walls. Supposed to be only 10-15k on the bottom rebuild. Hmmmm. Well I dunno what I'm doing yet. Still need to drop the oil pan and pull the pistons. Also I added a tablespoon of oil to cylinder 2 before I pulled head and did another compression check and it bumped it up to 150 and held on the gauge. 
10-01-2013, 05:13 PM
#13
Hmm.. looks like someone did a simple re-build without re-conditioning the cylinders.
I would pull the pistons and have the cylinder block measured/checked/machined.
Verify pistons and rings are correct for the cylinder bore.
I would pull the pistons and have the cylinder block measured/checked/machined.
Verify pistons and rings are correct for the cylinder bore.
Last edited by Kiroshu; 10-01-2013 at 06:48 PM.
10-01-2013, 06:25 PM
#16
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Oregon
Posts: 88
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Well the previous owner had is running when I got it. Had ppl taking it for test drives. I sea foamed when I first got it first time 100 miles then drained and did it again for 200 miles.
10-01-2013, 06:43 PM
#19
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Oregon
Posts: 88
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Looks like the pistons are brand Sealed Power 12326p. Looking at summit they describe them as budget pistons. Anyone have suggestions on a good brand of new bearing, rings and pistons? I think I caught in time to not have to machine the walls. They look and feel fine and I might just hone them and throw new pistons and bearings in. I will get a gauge and check bore to double check though.
