Forced Air Velocity Stacked Deck-Mod
#1
"Super" Velocity Stacked Deck-Mod
So after reading multiple threads on here and other forums about the well known deck-plate mod and the not so well known velocity stacked deck-plate mod, I started thinking about ways to make these mods better. First I thought about using some sort of air-foil technology but after much research on the topic, threw that idea out. I then came to the idea of adding a fan to the equation and came up with this:
After ordering the same speaker Bass port they used on off-road.com, the search was on for a powerful fan with a small enough profile. I found a 120mm 12v fan that pushes 200cfm at 4400rpms, for the low low price of $9.95 plus S&H!
Along the way I also picked up:
-4x m4-.70 x 60 stainless steel machine screws
-4x m4-.70 Wing Nuts
-A role of aluminum window screen
-Some scrap Stainless Steel sheeting my father got me from work
-Black silicon caulk
Most of the fab work can be done before taking the intake deck out so leave it in there until absolutely necessary. Especially if this is your DD like mine, you may need to drive to the store
Step 1.
Line your fan up with the base port and use a paint pen/silver sharpie to mark the holes to be drilled. Drill the wholes.
Step 2.
Using 1" masking tape, mark the bottom of the base port. Cutting an inch off will allow just enough room to change/clean your air filter.
Step 3.
Now is the time to pull out your intake deck. After using bass port to mark a circle, drill a starter hole and use a jigsaw to cut about 1/4" in from the outlined circle.
Step 4.
Line the bass port up so your holes are position such that the fan sides will be sitting parallel with the deck. Now mark where the fins of the bass port come in contact with the deck and where you will need to cut the original intake hole. Cut these markings out. The bass port should now sit flush with the deck.
Step 5.
Now you may insert the bass port and drill the holes into the deck.
Step 6.
Use your caulking to run a bead around the edge of the deck hole, insert the bass port and clamp it down using your hardware. Using your caulking again, seal any open seems including where you cut the original intake hole.
Step 7.
After letting it sit for a while you can now mount the fan and fill in the gaps using the same caulking.
Step 8.
Now while you are waiting for that to set you can make your screen cover. Using the jigsaw(now with a metal cutting blade installed) cut a frame to hold the screen down.
I know some of you are thinking it, so..
At the same time you should cut out a solid plate that can be used to block off the face of the fan. This will allow you to close it off in case you are entering large amounts of water or feel you are in to dusty of an environment to be running the fan. It will also allow me to close it off when I get a chance to use the dyno at my fathers work so I can "take it back to stock".
Step 8.
After about 4 hours you can now install your screen and reinstall the deck into the vehicle. In my vehicle('98 4runner) I had to remove the clip that holds the washer reservoir so that it could be pushed to the side slightly.
Step 9.
Now all you have to do is wire it up! For now I just have it wired directly to the battery with a switch under the hood until I decide exactly how I want it set up.
Your Finished!!
I have taken it for a spin to test it out but unless requested, will not reveal my "findings" until I have a chance to get some real data from the dyno.
Let me know your thoughts!
Thanks
After ordering the same speaker Bass port they used on off-road.com, the search was on for a powerful fan with a small enough profile. I found a 120mm 12v fan that pushes 200cfm at 4400rpms, for the low low price of $9.95 plus S&H!
Along the way I also picked up:
-4x m4-.70 x 60 stainless steel machine screws
-4x m4-.70 Wing Nuts
-A role of aluminum window screen
-Some scrap Stainless Steel sheeting my father got me from work
-Black silicon caulk
Most of the fab work can be done before taking the intake deck out so leave it in there until absolutely necessary. Especially if this is your DD like mine, you may need to drive to the store
Step 1.
Line your fan up with the base port and use a paint pen/silver sharpie to mark the holes to be drilled. Drill the wholes.
Step 2.
Using 1" masking tape, mark the bottom of the base port. Cutting an inch off will allow just enough room to change/clean your air filter.
Step 3.
Now is the time to pull out your intake deck. After using bass port to mark a circle, drill a starter hole and use a jigsaw to cut about 1/4" in from the outlined circle.
Step 4.
Line the bass port up so your holes are position such that the fan sides will be sitting parallel with the deck. Now mark where the fins of the bass port come in contact with the deck and where you will need to cut the original intake hole. Cut these markings out. The bass port should now sit flush with the deck.
Step 5.
Now you may insert the bass port and drill the holes into the deck.
Step 6.
Use your caulking to run a bead around the edge of the deck hole, insert the bass port and clamp it down using your hardware. Using your caulking again, seal any open seems including where you cut the original intake hole.
Step 7.
After letting it sit for a while you can now mount the fan and fill in the gaps using the same caulking.
Step 8.
Now while you are waiting for that to set you can make your screen cover. Using the jigsaw(now with a metal cutting blade installed) cut a frame to hold the screen down.
I know some of you are thinking it, so..
At the same time you should cut out a solid plate that can be used to block off the face of the fan. This will allow you to close it off in case you are entering large amounts of water or feel you are in to dusty of an environment to be running the fan. It will also allow me to close it off when I get a chance to use the dyno at my fathers work so I can "take it back to stock".
Step 8.
After about 4 hours you can now install your screen and reinstall the deck into the vehicle. In my vehicle('98 4runner) I had to remove the clip that holds the washer reservoir so that it could be pushed to the side slightly.
Step 9.
Now all you have to do is wire it up! For now I just have it wired directly to the battery with a switch under the hood until I decide exactly how I want it set up.
Your Finished!!
I have taken it for a spin to test it out but unless requested, will not reveal my "findings" until I have a chance to get some real data from the dyno.
Let me know your thoughts!
Thanks
Last edited by bSkogie; 09-26-2010 at 09:41 PM.
#2
Registered User
I think you will yield more hp with this bad boy.
What about driveline mods? i cant see stock driveline holding up
What about driveline mods? i cant see stock driveline holding up
Last edited by 874runnersr5; 09-26-2010 at 10:12 AM.
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#9
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Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Ottawa, Illinois
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Shouldn't the fan come after the filter? Hmm. How about a potentiometer hooked up with the throttle somehow, so the fan speed changes according to the throttle position?
How about a fan on the exhaust side, too? That would be like super-turbocharged then. J/K.
How about a fan on the exhaust side, too? That would be like super-turbocharged then. J/K.
#11
Registered User
I can tell you after years of working at a drag strip, and seeing a leaf blower on the engine, at least once a year. IT DOES NOT WORK.
A leaf blower is not a supercharger nor is it a turbo. It is a fan. By the time you plumb all the hose and electrical-- there is no benefit. It does not compress the incoming air charge, only a supercharger or turbo can do that.
A leaf blower is not a supercharger nor is it a turbo. It is a fan. By the time you plumb all the hose and electrical-- there is no benefit. It does not compress the incoming air charge, only a supercharger or turbo can do that.
#12
Registered User
you do realize that that motor is gonna eat more than 200cfm right?
hell the 22r carb eats more than that. let alone that 3.0
I hate people who don't think things through.
This is an EPIC fail in my mind.
hell the 22r carb eats more than that. let alone that 3.0
I hate people who don't think things through.
This is an EPIC fail in my mind.
#15
Registered User
I can tell you after years of working at a drag strip, and seeing a leaf blower on the engine, at least once a year. IT DOES NOT WORK.
A leaf blower is not a supercharger nor is it a turbo. It is a fan. By the time you plumb all the hose and electrical-- there is no benefit. It does not compress the incoming air charge, only a supercharger or turbo can do that.
A leaf blower is not a supercharger nor is it a turbo. It is a fan. By the time you plumb all the hose and electrical-- there is no benefit. It does not compress the incoming air charge, only a supercharger or turbo can do that.
#16
Perhaps I should change the "forced" part of my title. I realize I am not forcing air into the engine, I am simply putting more air into the box for the engine to suck down, just couldn't think of a better word.
I'll leave you guys to the flaming until I am able to test it on a dyno.
For those of you not flaming that just want to know what "I" have noticed:
First thing I noticed was that after start up the engine quieted down much quicker. My acceleration is noticeably faster, even after reaching 80mph(I took it to 95) the speed at which the odometer climbed was surprisingly fast. The acceleration also seems to be much smoother.
Even when trying, I have never been able to spin my tires on asphalt (unless snowy, icy, or rainy) but today I spun my tires for a good 15-20ft. This was very surprising for me.
To answer some other question:
I haven't thought about doing anything to the drive line, I guess I will have to see what kind of gain I am getting and decide from there. At what increase would you guys recommend I need to change it?
Because I am not "Forcing" air in I don't think I will need to compensate for it with the fuel system, but maybe I'm wrong. Thoughts?
I've only had it on for a day, but so far I haven't noticed anything with the internals. The engine sounds better IMO, so as of now I don't see any problems.
xxxtreme22r- I'm not limiting the intake to 200cfm. The stock port is still there which means it is pulling at least as much air in as it was before.
"I hate people that don't think things through"
Questions, comments, concerns, sarcastic remarks?
I'll leave you guys to the flaming until I am able to test it on a dyno.
For those of you not flaming that just want to know what "I" have noticed:
First thing I noticed was that after start up the engine quieted down much quicker. My acceleration is noticeably faster, even after reaching 80mph(I took it to 95) the speed at which the odometer climbed was surprisingly fast. The acceleration also seems to be much smoother.
Even when trying, I have never been able to spin my tires on asphalt (unless snowy, icy, or rainy) but today I spun my tires for a good 15-20ft. This was very surprising for me.
To answer some other question:
I haven't thought about doing anything to the drive line, I guess I will have to see what kind of gain I am getting and decide from there. At what increase would you guys recommend I need to change it?
Because I am not "Forcing" air in I don't think I will need to compensate for it with the fuel system, but maybe I'm wrong. Thoughts?
I've only had it on for a day, but so far I haven't noticed anything with the internals. The engine sounds better IMO, so as of now I don't see any problems.
xxxtreme22r- I'm not limiting the intake to 200cfm. The stock port is still there which means it is pulling at least as much air in as it was before.
"I hate people that don't think things through"
Questions, comments, concerns, sarcastic remarks?
#19
Will do. I'm hoping I can get to use the dyno within a week or so.
Prorunner- It does have over 204k on it so you never know
Prorunner- It does have over 204k on it so you never know
Last edited by bSkogie; 09-26-2010 at 10:02 PM.