what gear ratio to use for 33's
#21
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THIS is what you should be looking for - stock acceleration/power after regear.
Bigger gears don't = more gas consumption, especially not if you're pairing them with larger tires. it's possible to consume more gas if you regear but don't increase tire size - this is because you'll be at higher RPMs for the same speed. on the other hand...the higher RPMs could put your into more optimum conditions and you'll see slightly better MPGs because the engine isn't struggling as much.
I find it VERY hard to believe that your rig doesn't bog down. I also live in Sac and the entire reason you feel you're ok with stock gears is because the area is FLAT with a couple "hills" that don't even count as more than a "mound", lol. try driving up 80 or 50 with 33s/stock gears while loaded up for camping/wheeling, and then report back about how you had to use 3rd or even 2nd gear on the hwy while everyone else was passing you at twice your speed
To the OP: if your plans are to use the rig more offroad or do all city driving, then get 5.29 gears - you'll appreciate the extra torque at trail/lower speeds. If it's a DD/hwy rig, then get 4.88s because you'll have lower RPMs at cruising speed but the power will still be close to stock ratio - it'll be similar to stock gearing with one tire size up.
Bigger gears don't = more gas consumption, especially not if you're pairing them with larger tires. it's possible to consume more gas if you regear but don't increase tire size - this is because you'll be at higher RPMs for the same speed. on the other hand...the higher RPMs could put your into more optimum conditions and you'll see slightly better MPGs because the engine isn't struggling as much.
I find it VERY hard to believe that your rig doesn't bog down. I also live in Sac and the entire reason you feel you're ok with stock gears is because the area is FLAT with a couple "hills" that don't even count as more than a "mound", lol. try driving up 80 or 50 with 33s/stock gears while loaded up for camping/wheeling, and then report back about how you had to use 3rd or even 2nd gear on the hwy while everyone else was passing you at twice your speed
To the OP: if your plans are to use the rig more offroad or do all city driving, then get 5.29 gears - you'll appreciate the extra torque at trail/lower speeds. If it's a DD/hwy rig, then get 4.88s because you'll have lower RPMs at cruising speed but the power will still be close to stock ratio - it'll be similar to stock gearing with one tire size up.
Well you said it. Lol you know sac, thats why my rig doesnt bog down and thats what i was saying to the OP. We all have no idea what he plans to do or where he plans to drive it(hopefully off highway) but i can remember last year i went up 50 to hope valley in my 2wd ranger and had people passing me in minivans :/
So im gonna go with smaller tire or bigger gear. I love the 33's though so a bigger gear sounds better!
#23
An easy rule I learned years ago on gearing for tires and works great.
For every inch increased in tire diameter over factory size, add .1 to the stock gear ratio.
For example my stock gearing was 4.10, my factory tire size was 31.
I lifted the truck to run 35 inch tires, so 4 inches taller would be .4
That would be a ratio of 4.50, so I installed 4.56 gears, and BANG she was pulling like stock again.
Now im running 38's, so technically I need 4.88 gears.
For every inch increased in tire diameter over factory size, add .1 to the stock gear ratio.
For example my stock gearing was 4.10, my factory tire size was 31.
I lifted the truck to run 35 inch tires, so 4 inches taller would be .4
That would be a ratio of 4.50, so I installed 4.56 gears, and BANG she was pulling like stock again.
Now im running 38's, so technically I need 4.88 gears.
#24
Another thing to consider is tire drag. 35x12.50 in an all terrain tire has way less drag than16/35 Boggers. With my 3.4v6 I could pull 35x12.50's with stock gearing all day but wider and more aggressive tires would drag it down.
#25
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An easy rule I learned years ago on gearing for tires and works great.
For every inch increased in tire diameter over factory size, add .1 to the stock gear ratio.
For example my stock gearing was 4.10, my factory tire size was 31.
I lifted the truck to run 35 inch tires, so 4 inches taller would be .4
That would be a ratio of 4.50, so I installed 4.56 gears, and BANG she was pulling like stock again.
Now im running 38's, so technically I need 4.88 gears.
For every inch increased in tire diameter over factory size, add .1 to the stock gear ratio.
For example my stock gearing was 4.10, my factory tire size was 31.
I lifted the truck to run 35 inch tires, so 4 inches taller would be .4
That would be a ratio of 4.50, so I installed 4.56 gears, and BANG she was pulling like stock again.
Now im running 38's, so technically I need 4.88 gears.
And with 38's no matter what, you should have 5.29's to stay anywhere near stock performance.
Last edited by ThatGuy1295; 05-07-2013 at 07:39 PM.
#26
I know thats not a definite way of calculating gears.This simple idea was in one of the Offroad magazines years ago to give an idea or ballpark for what can be used. My truck has the 3.4 engine so 4.88 would work for my application currently, wich was to drive to work and shows. Even though for a while I pulled a 7x14 enclosed with 16/35 Boggers to the races. But with a 4 banger under the hood ya need 5.29s
#27
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I know thats not a definite way of calculating gears.This simple idea was in one of the Offroad magazines years ago to give an idea or ballpark for what can be used. My truck has the 3.4 engine so 4.88 would work for my application currently, wich was to drive to work and shows. Even though for a while I pulled a 7x14 enclosed with 16/35 Boggers to the races. But with a 4 banger under the hood ya need 5.29s
The truck will drive with any gear ratio now matter how wrong it is. But if your talking about staying anywhere near stock you need 5.29s with the 3.4 and 38'' tires.
In fact, id say your speedo is off to. Probably about 5mph at 65. Ya?
See for yourself if you want to
http://www.grimmjeeper.com/gears.html
Punch 4.11's and 29's or 30's and compare to 4.88's and 38's
And dont try comparing it like your truck had 31's and 4.11's stock. Cause it didn't.
Last edited by ThatGuy1295; 05-08-2013 at 04:43 PM.
#29
Ummm, I bought the truck brand new with 31 10.50 15s straight off the showroom floor and the gearing is stamped on the door. How much ˟˟˟˟ing obvious could it get? How much DO YOU know? None evidently,and considering your repeating everything im saying, your not getting anywhere and for anyone to laugh or agree with you is just as stupid. As for the gearing trick, it was in a magazine AND on an episode of Trucks, so fuss at them if its a stupid idea.
#30
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The gearing isn't stamped on the door tag. There is a code stamped there that has to be broken down. What your code?
As far as I've ever seen, or heard, the 2nd gen Runners with Auto and optional tow package AND 31s, got the factory 4.88s. Have yet to see or hear of a pickup with that option.
Maybe it got dealer installed 31s? In which case it isn't factory...
As far as I've ever seen, or heard, the 2nd gen Runners with Auto and optional tow package AND 31s, got the factory 4.88s. Have yet to see or hear of a pickup with that option.
Maybe it got dealer installed 31s? In which case it isn't factory...
#31
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Ummm, I bought the truck brand new with 31 10.50 15s straight off the showroom floor and the gearing is stamped on the door. How much ˟˟˟˟ing obvious could it get? How much DO YOU know? None evidently,and considering your repeating everything im saying, your not getting anywhere and for anyone to laugh or agree with you is just as stupid. As for the gearing trick, it was in a magazine AND on an episode of Trucks, so fuss at them if its a stupid idea.
The gearing isn't stamped on the door tag. There is a code stamped there that has to be broken down. What your code?
As far as I've ever seen, or heard, the 2nd gen Runners with Auto and optional tow package AND 31s, got the factory 4.88s. Have yet to see or hear of a pickup with that option.
Maybe it got dealer installed 31s? In which case it isn't factory...
As far as I've ever seen, or heard, the 2nd gen Runners with Auto and optional tow package AND 31s, got the factory 4.88s. Have yet to see or hear of a pickup with that option.
Maybe it got dealer installed 31s? In which case it isn't factory...
Last edited by ThatGuy1295; 05-10-2013 at 08:14 PM.
#32
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As far as I've ever seen, or heard, the 2nd gen Runners with Auto and optional tow package AND 31s, got the factory 4.88s.
As far as I know and please correct me if I am wrong, Rok is correct but the 4.88's and 31's w the slush box started in 92. This is what I have found from car-part.com:
4Runners 85 to 95-----------
85, 86, 87 -- 4.10 and 4.30; with the turbo auto having 4.10's only
88 -- 4.10 only **start of the 3.0 v6
89 -- 4.10 only with the 22re and 3.0
90, 91 -- 3.90 2wd 3.0 only; 4.10 and 4.56 w 22re, 3.0 v6
no 4.30
92, 93 -- **start of the 4.88
3.90 2wd 3.0 only; 22re 4.10 and 4.56; 3.o with 4.30,
4.56 and 4.88
94, 95 -- 4.10 only w 22re; 3.90 2wd 3.0; 3.0 with 4.30,
4.56 and 4.88
This is not gospel but I thought everyone would like to see the info here. I am tired and will do the pickups when I get a chance. If some one has a question on this, I will refine this.
As far as I know and please correct me if I am wrong, Rok is correct but the 4.88's and 31's w the slush box started in 92. This is what I have found from car-part.com:
4Runners 85 to 95-----------
85, 86, 87 -- 4.10 and 4.30; with the turbo auto having 4.10's only
88 -- 4.10 only **start of the 3.0 v6
89 -- 4.10 only with the 22re and 3.0
90, 91 -- 3.90 2wd 3.0 only; 4.10 and 4.56 w 22re, 3.0 v6
no 4.30
92, 93 -- **start of the 4.88
3.90 2wd 3.0 only; 22re 4.10 and 4.56; 3.o with 4.30,
4.56 and 4.88
94, 95 -- 4.10 only w 22re; 3.90 2wd 3.0; 3.0 with 4.30,
4.56 and 4.88
This is not gospel but I thought everyone would like to see the info here. I am tired and will do the pickups when I get a chance. If some one has a question on this, I will refine this.
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