moskiter

Hi All,
So I damaged my fuel line in my 96 Lexus ES300 right below the fuel filter, I simply twisted it and tore it off thinking that I was unscrewing my rusty filter. I should have held the nut at the fuel line with another wrench... Never mind... So new fuel line is about $70 and it goes to the firewall and probably directly to the tank. However I found out that flaring tool makes pretty good fittings that can hold the fuel pressure. I measured my fuel line's diameter and it is 9 mm since Japanese cars go metric. I went to Sears and found Craftsman flare tool set with only 4 adaptors (not metric). Next I looked around online for high-end sets a here are some nice looking kits -> http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/tools...e=snapon-store. There are 2 metric sets and 3 SAE ones. Both metric sets have adaptors with 8mm and 10mm but no 9mm (as my line is). SAE sets have 3/8 adaptor that would be closer because it is approximately 9.5mm.

1) I would apprecite if somebody gave me a clue how accurate they have to be to hold a tube because I have never used this kind of tool. And should I buy metric or SAE set?

2) Next question would be which line do I flare - the one in the engine compartment or the one with the connector that firstly I have to purchase somewhere or cut off at a junk yard.

3) what kind of flare should I apply to fuel/brake line - single, bubble or double

4) what if I don't find it at junk yard, can I use old connector? There is still old tube remaing in it, can I remove it somehow?

5) where do I get fittings? And will I find one for 9mm tubes? Or will 3/8 fitting fit to my line?

I now that I have too many questions but maybe I will be lucky to have some answers... And the topic may be helpful for other people.

90-3vzeslug

If you are asking all these questions, it leads to a simple answer.

spend the $70 on the new part.

moskiter

if you don't know any answers don't litter my thread at least...

90-3vzeslug

your answers:
1. yes they have to be accurate.
2. you need to flare anywhere with a fitting necesary.
3. I believe double.....
4. any parts store should have a connector, don't want to reuse one.
5. same as 4 but needs to be proper fitting. you do NOT want this to leak.
6. faster and easier to buy correct part and install it.

edit- probably cheaper after all is said and done. it seems you do not have much experience that is why you got my first response, i am sorry if i underestimated your experience

mohadib

bending and flaring a pipe is not that hard, but can take some time. Get a piece of tubing longer than you need and ask the parts store to use their flaring tool. Bring both pieces of the line you broke(fail). Then match up the first flair. The borrow or buy a bending tool, they are cheap. Match the bend in the busted piece. Cut the tube and match the other flair. Will take you a few tries to get the flaring right. So be sure to practice on one end before you start bending. Good Luck.

moskiter

Thanks for your replies.

1. It won't be cheaper to buy new fuel line because it's the same cost as a flare tool and flare tool will remain in my possesion for future use.
2. There is a lot more job to replace it because I'd have drag it all way back through the car somehere under the upholstery to the fuel tank.
3. I like learning and achieving new skills
4. I can't go to a technican because the car is immobile now, but I woudn't go anyway

moskiter

Yes, it's a good clue to cut a piece of the line, go to a store and ask for one alike. Nonetheless I want to buy the tools, and I will practice before I set about flaring my line.

So should I use 3/8" holding tool if there is 9mm one not available?

j2img

take your time when making the flare go real slow its very easy to split the end especially with a double flare although i think a single flare should be sufficient for fuel
watch your bends if you crimp it when trying to make a tight bend your back to stage one and out another $20 or so
3/8ths should work ok but the ideal way would be the exact size

moskiter

thank you, copper tubing is cheap so I'll practice... http://www.agrisupply.com/product.asp?pn=10942

Or maybe should I use different alloythan copper?

Probably I won't find exact diameter size. Mine is exactly 22/64".
3/8" equals 24/64" so it's 2/64" thicker...

90-3vzeslug

don't use the copper. try to use something closer to what you are going to be working on (mild steel or aluminum iirc)

24Runna

Heres a sipler solution.
Cut the line that you twisted off so its not dis formed.
Buy about 1.5 feet of fuel inj. rubber hose.
Buy a new fuel filter with generic barbs
Connect it all.

Thats what I did when i twisted off my fuel filter. Cost about $10, now i can replace my fuel filter as often as I would like in a matter of minutes.

Or get everything back to OEM, either way will work perfect.