Thump

Well, I got a new to me '86 Toyota 4x4, it's a fuel injected 22RE, and was a turbo truck but the turbo is gone now. Here's my two problems:

My first issue is he said a sensor is out and you have to pump the gas pedal until it starts. It takes a while when cold, once warm it'll start up, no gas.

Second, he bought everything from dist. cap, wires, and plugs, and the coil and everything on that. It misses like its a 3cyl. There's no smoke at all, like it's a brand new engine with miles to go. I've had this problem on my Accord so maybe they vary, one for sure will. First time the Accord did this very thing I did all new stuff, but this truck has those. I then cleaned the Accords EGR ports, it did it again and I had biuld up in the 4 injector screens.

If so, how do I pull the rail? Is there EGR ports? I don't think this truck does but I only really do carb engines and builds so I'll ask. I don't think it's a bad problem, or hope not. I have a new fuel filter but it appeared the one on it is new since it's so clean which doesn't mean there's not trash in the tank and it needs changed.

waskillywabbit

iTrader: (-1)

CSI, cold start injector. Research here on the forum, lots of info.

If he bought aftermarket I've seen those wires be crap out of the package new. OEM Toyota (Denso)

www.ncttora.com/fsm is your friend

:wabbit2:

Thump

First off, thanks for the welcome and fast replies!


Ok, wires are brand new, they say "7mm Hi-temp radio suppression cable" I'm not sure what they are but not what you said I don't think lol. The caps red, plugs I don't know but all are new.

Thump

So he said correct, pointed at two sensors behind the top coolant hose and said one was the reason for a hard start. I'll get that later at the parts getting place.

Thump

I got a bad trade on this Yota. Changed the fuel filter and the gas was a dark rust brown color. I then pulled each plug wire and found 3rd back no change. I pulled the plug and it's firing but looked brand new and clean. No fire there! Either a clogged tight or a dead cylinder! I'm buying a compression tester. Any idea what a fresh 22re should read? Either way I'll check the to a good firing cylinder.

GuitarMike

How you making out? Did you get the FSM and a Haynes for it? You should have compression numbers in one of those....don't feel TOO bad - it's running, right? That means you can fix it up

Thump

Well, checked the compression, 3rd back getting no fuel at all. I checked the other ones and they hit 150ish. Then I got to the 3rd back and it hit 150ish, all right in there at 150ish. I believe that to be good at 121,000 on the clock but who knows how long the twin case has been in there. I'd still hope it wasn't twice that at like 224,000 miles still being 150.

Anyways, cylinders showed to be fine, now it was a gas issue. I pulled the fuel filter and gas was a rust brown, thick dark brown! I then pulled the intake, all the lines and got to the injectors. They were all dirty but working, the bad cylinder had it clogged tight with brown gunk lol. I cleaned them, ran some injector cleaner in the tank(probably won't do crap lol), and filled the tank up. The fuel gauge isn't working but showed less than half a tank so with dirty fuel I thought to take the lazy way and fill it up. It only took 3gal, so the tank was about full if it's really 17gal like I believe it to be. I'll see what it does and if I can burn this fuel up I'll run a fill clean tank of fuel, and check the filter again. If I can't get it clean I'll pull and replace the rusted tank. It may be best but all it'll do is cut power and clog the injectors but so far so good so I'll ride it out. Truck cruises at what I believe to be 55-60, a local cop, my neighbor said he'd clock me in and I can adjust it for a rpm for a speed. Here's the injector and reason it was running badly....

The clogged one, and a better but still dirty one. The reason why rides don't need to sit for a extended period. The ethanol absorbs moisture from the air thus causing rust issues among others.