Double D

So this weekend I put my new heavy duty 1600lb clutch kit in from Marlin Crawler. I put in a new Pilot bearing, throwout bearing, and clutch cover at the same time. I also changed the rear main seal while I was in there. I have a new master and slave cylinder in the truck to add to it all.
After the job was done, I realized that the clutch didn't have much resistance so I bled it. I still dont seem to have alot of resistance. It's bled properly and the master cylinder bracket is maxed out to give enough room to engage. When I start the truck, with the clutch in, I cannot get into gear. It grinds if I try to push it hard enough into gear. I'm thinkin that I need a bigger slave clyinder since the factory pressure plate is only 900lbs and the new one is 1600? By the way, it's an 88 toyota pickup 4x4 5spd. Any suggestions as to what could be the problem? Thanks in advance.

rattlewagon

There is an adjustment on the back of the clutch pedal too, have you checked that one out?

Double D

That's the one for the master cylinder. Same adjustment as I said was maxed out.

vital22re

iTrader: (2)

Try bleeding the system one more time. Did you have anyproblems before? was the transmission in known good working order? Sometimes people flip the clutch disk and install it wrong.

Double D

The clutch is in the correct facing direction. Flat side toward the flywheel. I've bled the system until empty a few times now. I'm pretty sure that its not that at this point. Didn't have problems before except that the old clutch was bad. It has the same transmission in it as it's always had which is good. I'm thinkin that the fork just isnt pushing the throwout bearing hard enough because the slave cylinder isnt strong enough for a 1600lb pressure plate.

vital22re

iTrader: (2)

are you sure you recieved the right parts? 2wd vs 4wd

Double D

well the master and slave cylinder were both being used with the old clutch so I know they are good. The new clutch came from Marlin Crawler and i'm pretty sure it doesn't make a difference from 2 to 4 wheel on that.

Double D

Yeah I just checked the MC website. As I remembered, there was only a differnt part for turbo vs non turbo, and 6cyl. i'm not sure why i'm not getting enough pressure to the plate. If I shine a light into the bell housing where the boot would be, I can see the throwout bearing advance on the shaft and push the pressure plate in some, but not enough to get into gear.

wyoming9

iTrader: (1)

If you have run the Master Cylinder empty again you have allowed air back into the system. you need to keep fluid in the reservoir the whole time you are bleeding it.

Just how did you bleed the system vacuum bleeder with help from a friend or just crack open the bleeder.

Unless you just misstated this in your post

Have some one push the pedal while you watch the slave cylinder move or not

Double D

I attempted to do the bleeding on my own not having any patience at first. (using a handle from a floor jack to hold the pedal down and jump out) Then I got a friend to come over and push the pedal for me. I may have discovered my problem last night reading the instructions for bleeding in the fsm.
My usual technique would be to open the valve, push the pedal, close the valve, release the pedal and repeat until a full stream of fluid comes out and the pedal is tight.
On the MC website, I read that you are supposed to put a bleeder hose and canister half full of fluid on the valve while bleeding.
pump the clutch pedal several times
While pressing on the pedal, loosen the bleeder plug until fluid starts to run out then close the bleeder plug. Repeat until there are no more air bubbles in the fluid.

I did not have a canister of fluid on the line yesterday. Do you think this makes the difference of not having enough pressure to fully compress the pressure plate?

Wyoming9 - You have a point with running the master empty. I may have been going in circles with that. :/
As for the slave, I can see it move and push the fork, just doesn't seem to apply enough pressure as stated before. Thanks for your input.

rokblok

iTrader: (1)

You seem pretty hung up on the fact that you have a 1600lb clutch versus a stock 8-900lb clutch....

If the clutch hydraulics are bled properly, there is plenty of strength to engage/disengage the clutch, whether 1600lb or 900lb pressure plate. Remember, it doesn't take hardly any movement of the throw-out bearing to disengage the clutch. Maybe 1/4-3/8". When you tighten the pressure plate to the flywheel, the clutch fingers will go pretty much flat, versus protruding out towards the trans a little. It's all a matter of leverage. Note how close the pivot ball point is to the fork, as opposed to the slave cylinder end of the arm.

I'm betting a good, proper bleed of the clutch hydraulics and all will be well. Barring any physically damaged parts, of course... Lol

Double D

thanks rokblok. This is my first clutch replacement so i'm a little unfamiliar with the details of things which is where my question about the 1600 vs 900lbs comes into play. I'm basically working with all new parts at this point. I will attempt the bleed according to the FSM after work and report back.

rokblok

iTrader: (1)

You're welcome. Keep us informed. I bled my clutch by myself also. I let it gravity bleed for a while, making sure to keep the fluid level up in the reservoir. Then closed the bleeder. Then pushed the pedal down, measured and cut a 2x4 to wedge against the lower seat area. Once it was wedged in, I opened the bleeder for a split second, removed my wedge, filled fluid, reinstalled my homemade wood wedge, opened bleeder for split second, and repeat a few more times. Pumping the pedal a few times before reinstalling the wedge. Anyway, my clutch is the 1200lb Marlin, and it is flawless. Feels same as stock pedal to me. Engages great, smooth as silk.

I hope you get it taken care of soon and get to riding' in the Yoter!

Double D

Ok so I bled according to fsm. I bled according to what i've always done with brakes. I've pumped a couple quarts through this thing and still not enough pressure. This time i've done it without running the fluid dry.
I can shift into gear without the truck running. If i put it in first and crank it, the truck jumps forward as if it wanted to drive off. I still cant seem to figure out why it wont disengage the clutch. I've bled it every which way to sunday and still not enough pressure. The bleed acts as if it were done right based on the reaction from the valve and the volume of fluid being released. I'm going to call MC in the morning and see if they have the factory Toyota slaves in stock and order another. Mine is new but it's an Autozone replacement. can't think of what else.

jred151

Is it possible that MC sent you a wrong part that fit but doesn't function properly? I ordered a clutch kit from and it came with the wrong pressure plate. That plate wouldn't fit though.

Double D

Well they took over 3 weeks to send it out so i'd hope that it was right. Plus, everything bolted up just fine. I actually just spoke with Zach on the phone from MC and he says that the pedal needs a little bit of play before it try's to engage the clutch. I can't see that being a solution because I've had the master cylinder adjusted all the way in and out.

Double D

ok so I called MC to order the factory slave replacement and talked to another guy and he says that this is a very common problem for them and that the master cylinder adjustment is off. Apparently there is a stop valve in the MC and if it is maxed out, it covers the channel for the fluid to flow? Either way, I will continue to adjust and bleed until my other slave comes in. Any other thoughts on this are still greatly appreciated.

Double D

Today I tried marlins advice n got nothing. I can't seem to understand why it bleeds ok but does not disengage the clutch. Ill have a factory slave on Thurs to replace the one I have. Hope it helps solve my problem.

wyoming9

iTrader: (1)

I hope this does the trick but I have my doubts.

Good luck

Double D

I have my doubts as well. I dont know what else it could be though. I've been bleeding this thing for 3 days now and had no success. I've bled a ton of brake systems and i had to bleed this system when the old clutch was still in. I've had success every other time but now. I wanna rule out bleeding as the issue. I will swap the slave tomorrow after work and hope for the best.
Since the truck will go into gear when it's not running, then attempt to take off if i start to crank it, can that be hydraulics?