GuitarMike

OK...my double cardan WAS junk (couple mm play in it), so it is now replaced with a used (and good) one. The front U section was ok, zero play. Re-installed, on match-marks to the flanges. The 2 sections have been put back together 'straight' (both zerks on 1 side, as it was when I removed it).

NOW: the vibration in the front end, which is why I replaced the cardan, is as bad, or worse. Hubs locked in 2wd, bad vibe. In 4H, worse. So I now get to consider if this is my front diff or my transfer case, right?? I can't see it being CVs or hubs (but then, I'm totally noob). Diff oil was changed a couple months ago, light particles in the oil but no pieces fell out or anything...

I have no idea how to diagnose the problem. I do have a friend who can, but he lives a good distance and I won't be able to get the vehicle to him for a bit. I'm doing homework. It would help if I can get him any info beforehand, in case he needs to contact the Toyota Underground to find parts. Any suggestions on how to get an idea here?

Yeah, I'm face-palming at my own inexperience. But learning! Thanks in advance.

Sperry

Had a bad vibration for over a year in my 95 4runner. Though it was u-joints, or tires.....Finally traced it to the companion flange stake nut. The way I finally diagnosed it was by removing my rear drive shaft and driving around in high 4. Gave a 1/8 turn more and re-staked...worked great.

Couple years later...had a vibration and assumed it was the companion flange again. Wrong! it was a u-joint. Couldn't tell from laying on my back and shaking the drive-shaft, but when I had it on the bench, I could feel it.

But - If you feel that it's coming from your front, then it's likely something else.

GuitarMike

It could be worthwhile to disconnect the rear drive shaft, and spin it up in 4H on jack stands. If I had an observer, maybe they'd be able to pinpoint what's going on? And if it didn't do anything, maybe tires....this is 100% front end...no problems in 2WD with hubs disengaged...and it only does it under power.

I'd really like to know if it's CV, diff or TC. So I can know how much it's gonna cost in time and parts, LOL. Probably 1 of each, knowing my luck...

Sperry

I know that when my CV joints went on my 90 toyota celica there was no vibration, just loud clicking on hard turns. Later... when the wheel bearing went, it vibrated and 'hummed' when I had just the right steering angle..... more of a 'whine' then a vibration. So ...if it's a 'heavy' vibration then your likely right that it's neither if those components.

GuitarMike

Ouch. At least I can get parts, really cheap and in good condition, actually. It's just a major pain having to get my friend to come all the way out and help pull a transfer case, or diff. or something. And then, while you're in there, you might as well do CV's if you have it all apart.... ugh. I think it should be obvious what's going on when it's on jack stands.

There's a real outside chance my POS tires have something to do with it...but I'm not counting on it, ha ha. The vibration is quite pronounced....like driving on a road made of 2" PVC pipe....

GuitarMike

YUP. I had put the truck in 4x4 to test it after putting the 'new' cardan in there. And it vibed like a jackhammer. Didn't go back under, I was so PO'd.

Looked at it today...it had been greased up before i got it, and felt tight. Now, you can push back & forth on the yoke (in the bad direction) and get CLUNK CLUNK. Transfer case and diff flanges feel tight, zero play.

Can anyone think of anything that would ruin a cardan joint that fast, or is it most likely this used one was junk and the grease just made it feel tight before trying it? The guy I got it from is a friend of a friend and will give me the $ back, I am just wondering if there could be something that toasts them so fast. The truck is stock, btw.

Sperry

Well - you can look at the bright side...figuring it out is usually the bigger issue the actually fixing it. I would just give the guy you bought it from a call and nicely ask about it. Since it was 'used' then perhaps it was close to being ready to fail anyway. If yours went, then other similar aged vehicles will also be spent.

One thing that may have caused it: since it wasn't 'matched,' like your original, then it may have been bolted together 180 degrees out of phase. I know that the flanges and shafts should be balanced from the factory and always returned to their original position when serviced. Not sure how you could check though...

GuitarMike

Thanks, Sperry. I agree, although I made match marks on the flanges and reassembled according to them. In an ideal world it would balance the same, but no guarantee. Used the outside zerks for reference. 1 of 4 ways possible, lol. I can't imagine putting it back out of phase could destroy the cardan in like 3 to 5 seconds! That doesn't compute. More than likely it was floppy anyway and I just didn't pick up on it (it wasn't in a vice when I got it....now that it's attached and has been driven, it's evident).

The dude will give me my money back, no problem, only $20...friend of a friend in the Yota network. I'll have to see if I can find a rebuilt one or try my luck again on a junkyard part.....no way I'm going to get a 'remanufactured' one for big $! But, 4 wheel drive is why we get these trucks, right?! lol

Sperry

Good luck .....and let me know what you finally find out.