93' 22re Pickup - Won't Start After Sitting
05-16-2021, 03:27 PM
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93' 22re Pickup - Won't Start After Sitting
93' 22re Pickup. Fired it up after way too long (probably close to 2 years) and it ran fine, parked it on the street. Tried to start it up to move it back and it turns over fine, but won't start, doesn't even try to start. Haven't checked for spark yet (need to get help from someone). Guessing it could be a fuel issue.
Thoughts on the steps needed to diagnose and then fix? I appreciate the help. Trying to get this old truck up and running asap so I can sell it. My wife is due with our 5th in a month, and we move into a new home the same week she's due, so having to deal with this truck right now isn't ideal.
I really appreciate any help you can provide.
Thanks guys!
Thoughts on the steps needed to diagnose and then fix? I appreciate the help. Trying to get this old truck up and running asap so I can sell it. My wife is due with our 5th in a month, and we move into a new home the same week she's due, so having to deal with this truck right now isn't ideal.
I really appreciate any help you can provide.
Thanks guys!
05-17-2021, 11:31 AM
#2
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Well, since you only need a few things for an internal combustion engine to function (run), you just need to figure out what's missing. Fuel, spark, air, all happening at the right time.
Do you hear the fuel pump running when the test box is jumpered, Fp-B+ ? Put a clear piece of tubing on the return line out of the FPR, and place it into a container. Jumper the test for the fuel pump, turn the key to ON, and make sure there's fuel running when the pump runs. Tests almost the entire fuel delivery system. Pump, filter, lines, etc. At the worst, crank it over, then pull a plug out an see if it's wet with fuel. Tells you real fast if you have fuel delivery.
Check the air delivery system. Make sure the big tube from the AFM to the throttle body doesn't have any leaks, or obstructions. Especially the corner pieces. They can develop cracks that are hard to see. Test the AFM and TPS electrically according to the FSM, to ensure they both function correctly, and that their wiring is in good shape. Ensure all the vacuum lines are in good shape, and installed.
Verify the spark system sparks. Test the various parts of it, the ignitor, the distributor cap and rotor, plug wires, etc, to ensure they are in good shape electrically. Again, in accordance with the FSM. You can use a timing light to check for spark. Hook it's inductive pickup to the plug wire to be tested. Including the center wire on the distributor cap from the coil. Have an assistant crank it over. If the timing light flashes, you have a spark pulse running down that wire.
If I were to guess at items, just off the top of my head, I would verify the fuel pump, check the distributor cap and rotor, and ensure no critters are nesting in the main air intake system. They can get places you wouldn't believe. I would check them in that order. Heck, you can hear the fuel pump run if you turn the key to start but don't press the clutch pedal, or engage the clutch cancel switch. It won't crank, but the fuel pump should run. It's not loud, but in a relatively quiet place, it's pretty easy and obvious to hear.
Keep us up to date!
Pat☺
Do you hear the fuel pump running when the test box is jumpered, Fp-B+ ? Put a clear piece of tubing on the return line out of the FPR, and place it into a container. Jumper the test for the fuel pump, turn the key to ON, and make sure there's fuel running when the pump runs. Tests almost the entire fuel delivery system. Pump, filter, lines, etc. At the worst, crank it over, then pull a plug out an see if it's wet with fuel. Tells you real fast if you have fuel delivery.
Check the air delivery system. Make sure the big tube from the AFM to the throttle body doesn't have any leaks, or obstructions. Especially the corner pieces. They can develop cracks that are hard to see. Test the AFM and TPS electrically according to the FSM, to ensure they both function correctly, and that their wiring is in good shape. Ensure all the vacuum lines are in good shape, and installed.
Verify the spark system sparks. Test the various parts of it, the ignitor, the distributor cap and rotor, plug wires, etc, to ensure they are in good shape electrically. Again, in accordance with the FSM. You can use a timing light to check for spark. Hook it's inductive pickup to the plug wire to be tested. Including the center wire on the distributor cap from the coil. Have an assistant crank it over. If the timing light flashes, you have a spark pulse running down that wire.
If I were to guess at items, just off the top of my head, I would verify the fuel pump, check the distributor cap and rotor, and ensure no critters are nesting in the main air intake system. They can get places you wouldn't believe. I would check them in that order. Heck, you can hear the fuel pump run if you turn the key to start but don't press the clutch pedal, or engage the clutch cancel switch. It won't crank, but the fuel pump should run. It's not loud, but in a relatively quiet place, it's pretty easy and obvious to hear.
Keep us up to date!
Pat☺
05-28-2021, 03:09 PM
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I really appreciate you taking the time to write out all that. Turns out my sending unit was saying I had a quarter tank of gas... yeah, it was bone dry and sucked air. Added 5 gallons, still didn't want to start. Had to prime the pump and then it fired right up no problem.
05-29-2021, 11:47 AM
#4
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My 87 4Runner, after sitting a few days, needs the pump at least run for a few seconds before I try to start it up. I just hop in, turn the key to Start, but don't push in the clutch, or use the clutch cancel switch. I can hear the pump run, and when it's pitch changes, I know the fuel system is pressurized, and go ahead and hit the clutch. Fires right up, no trouble.
That method may work for you too, but if you don't let it sit too long, you won't need to. I'm retired medically, so my lovely wife and I don't go out very often any more.
I'm glad you learned the error in your fuel gauge now, rather than out on the road in the middle of the night. I understand vehicle designer try to put in a tank big enough to take you about 250 miles. I never go more than 200 on a tank, just to be safe. The gauge in my pickup only goes down to 3/4, and after that, drops to E and stay there, so I have to watch the mileage.
Enjoy your truck once it's all good to go. Make sure the fuel system is clean throughout. It doesn't take all that much to clog an injector, and sucking a tank dry is a sure way to get nastiness into the system. The filter will catch most but you still need to be careful. I know it's a pain, but a new fuel filter may be in order. Just to be safe, you know?
Note: No matter where in the system, never, ever, re-use the crush washers. They WILL leak. Make sure you have plenty spares, too, for whatever you're working on. If you are forced to use the last one you've got, it WILL leap out of your hand, fall down under the truck, and vanish into Limbo. Even on a perfectly clean, dry, cement pad, that you hear the washer hit the ground, it will still vanish. The crush washers are both magical, and very malicious! You've been warned!
Have fun!
Pat☺
That method may work for you too, but if you don't let it sit too long, you won't need to. I'm retired medically, so my lovely wife and I don't go out very often any more.
I'm glad you learned the error in your fuel gauge now, rather than out on the road in the middle of the night. I understand vehicle designer try to put in a tank big enough to take you about 250 miles. I never go more than 200 on a tank, just to be safe. The gauge in my pickup only goes down to 3/4, and after that, drops to E and stay there, so I have to watch the mileage.
Enjoy your truck once it's all good to go. Make sure the fuel system is clean throughout. It doesn't take all that much to clog an injector, and sucking a tank dry is a sure way to get nastiness into the system. The filter will catch most but you still need to be careful. I know it's a pain, but a new fuel filter may be in order. Just to be safe, you know?
Note: No matter where in the system, never, ever, re-use the crush washers. They WILL leak. Make sure you have plenty spares, too, for whatever you're working on. If you are forced to use the last one you've got, it WILL leap out of your hand, fall down under the truck, and vanish into Limbo. Even on a perfectly clean, dry, cement pad, that you hear the washer hit the ground, it will still vanish. The crush washers are both magical, and very malicious! You've been warned!
Have fun!
Pat☺
09-13-2021, 07:56 AM
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My 87 4Runner, after sitting a few days, needs the pump at least run for a few seconds before I try to start it up. I just hop in, turn the key to Start, but don't push in the clutch, or use the clutch cancel switch. I can hear the pump run, and when it's pitch changes, I know the fuel system is pressurized, and go ahead and hit the clutch. Fires right up, no trouble.
That method may work for you too, but if you don't let it sit too long, you won't need to. I'm retired medically, so my lovely wife and I don't go out very often any more.
I'm glad you learned the error in your fuel gauge now, rather than out on the road in the middle of the night. I understand vehicle designer try to put in a tank big enough to take you about 250 miles. I never go more than 200 on a tank, just to be safe. The gauge in my pickup only goes down to 3/4, and after that, drops to E and stay there, so I have to watch the mileage.
Enjoy your truck once it's all good to go. Make sure the fuel system is clean throughout. It doesn't take all that much to clog an injector, and sucking a tank dry is a sure way to get nastiness into the system. The filter will catch most but you still need to be careful. I know it's a pain, but a new fuel filter may be in order. Just to be safe, you know?
Note: No matter where in the system, never, ever, re-use the crush washers. They WILL leak. Make sure you have plenty spares, too, for whatever you're working on. If you are forced to use the last one you've got, it WILL leap out of your hand, fall down under the truck, and vanish into Limbo. Even on a perfectly clean, dry, cement pad, that you hear the washer hit the ground, it will still vanish. The crush washers are both magical, and very malicious! You've been warned!
Have fun!
Pat☺
That method may work for you too, but if you don't let it sit too long, you won't need to. I'm retired medically, so my lovely wife and I don't go out very often any more.
I'm glad you learned the error in your fuel gauge now, rather than out on the road in the middle of the night. I understand vehicle designer try to put in a tank big enough to take you about 250 miles. I never go more than 200 on a tank, just to be safe. The gauge in my pickup only goes down to 3/4, and after that, drops to E and stay there, so I have to watch the mileage.
Enjoy your truck once it's all good to go. Make sure the fuel system is clean throughout. It doesn't take all that much to clog an injector, and sucking a tank dry is a sure way to get nastiness into the system. The filter will catch most but you still need to be careful. I know it's a pain, but a new fuel filter may be in order. Just to be safe, you know?
Note: No matter where in the system, never, ever, re-use the crush washers. They WILL leak. Make sure you have plenty spares, too, for whatever you're working on. If you are forced to use the last one you've got, it WILL leap out of your hand, fall down under the truck, and vanish into Limbo. Even on a perfectly clean, dry, cement pad, that you hear the washer hit the ground, it will still vanish. The crush washers are both magical, and very malicious! You've been warned!
Have fun!
Pat☺
09-13-2021, 08:23 AM
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Take a wire off the distributor and ground it with a spark plug and see if it has par
Well, since you only need a few things for an internal combustion engine to function (run), you just need to figure out what's missing. Fuel, spark, air, all happening at the right time.
Do you hear the fuel pump running when the test box is jumpered, Fp-B+ ? Put a clear piece of tubing on the return line out of the FPR, and place it into a container. Jumper the test for the fuel pump, turn the key to ON, and make sure there's fuel running when the pump runs. Tests almost the entire fuel delivery system. Pump, filter, lines, etc. At the worst, crank it over, then pull a plug out an see if it's wet with fuel. Tells you real fast if you have fuel delivery.
Check the air delivery system. Make sure the big tube from the AFM to the throttle body doesn't have any leaks, or obstructions. Especially the corner pieces. They can develop cracks that are hard to see. Test the AFM and TPS electrically according to the FSM, to ensure they both function correctly, and that their wiring is in good shape. Ensure all the vacuum lines are in good shape, and installed.
Verify the spark system sparks. Test the various parts of it, the ignitor, the distributor cap and rotor, plug wires, etc, to ensure they are in good shape electrically. Again, in accordance with the FSM. You can use a timing light to check for spark. Hook it's inductive pickup to the plug wire to be tested. Including the center wire on the distributor cap from the coil. Have an assistant crank it over. If the timing light flashes, you have a spark pulse running down that wire.
If I were to guess at items, just off the top of my head, I would verify the fuel pump, check the distributor cap and rotor, and ensure no critters are nesting in the main air intake system. They can get places you wouldn't believe. I would check them in that order. Heck, you can hear the fuel pump run if you turn the key to start but don't press the clutch pedal, or engage the clutch cancel switch. It won't crank, but the fuel pump should run. It's not loud, but in a relatively quiet place, it's pretty easy and obvious to hear.
Keep us up to date!
Pat☺
Do you hear the fuel pump running when the test box is jumpered, Fp-B+ ? Put a clear piece of tubing on the return line out of the FPR, and place it into a container. Jumper the test for the fuel pump, turn the key to ON, and make sure there's fuel running when the pump runs. Tests almost the entire fuel delivery system. Pump, filter, lines, etc. At the worst, crank it over, then pull a plug out an see if it's wet with fuel. Tells you real fast if you have fuel delivery.
Check the air delivery system. Make sure the big tube from the AFM to the throttle body doesn't have any leaks, or obstructions. Especially the corner pieces. They can develop cracks that are hard to see. Test the AFM and TPS electrically according to the FSM, to ensure they both function correctly, and that their wiring is in good shape. Ensure all the vacuum lines are in good shape, and installed.
Verify the spark system sparks. Test the various parts of it, the ignitor, the distributor cap and rotor, plug wires, etc, to ensure they are in good shape electrically. Again, in accordance with the FSM. You can use a timing light to check for spark. Hook it's inductive pickup to the plug wire to be tested. Including the center wire on the distributor cap from the coil. Have an assistant crank it over. If the timing light flashes, you have a spark pulse running down that wire.
If I were to guess at items, just off the top of my head, I would verify the fuel pump, check the distributor cap and rotor, and ensure no critters are nesting in the main air intake system. They can get places you wouldn't believe. I would check them in that order. Heck, you can hear the fuel pump run if you turn the key to start but don't press the clutch pedal, or engage the clutch cancel switch. It won't crank, but the fuel pump should run. It's not loud, but in a relatively quiet place, it's pretty easy and obvious to hear.
Keep us up to date!
Pat☺
09-13-2021, 08:46 AM
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See posts above, it gets spark, it's a fuel issue, just not sure what the culprit is. Not sure on price but parts alone I have 8k into it. I need to see what built pickups go for these days but certainly not looking to price gouge.
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09-13-2021, 11:11 AM
#8
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Well, then, if you're absolutely certain it's the fuel, does the fuel pump run when you turn the key to STArt without activating the clutch, or the clutch start cancel switch? Have you tried jumping the Fp and B+ terminals in the test block attached to the engine compartment fuse block? When you turn the key to ON with the jumper in, you should hear the fuel pump run, and get fuel pressure in the fuel rail. That means the cold start injector as well. Does fuel flow through the fuel pressure regulator return line? Easy to hear, easy to check. Just pull the return line off, put a piece of tubing on it, and put it in a container, to catch the fuel. Activate the fuel pump, and see if the fuel flows as it should.
IF the fuel pump runs when tested, is enough pressure AND volume arriving at the fuel rail? Does the fuel pump run with the key in start as I mentioned above? Can you hear the fuel pump run with the key in ON and the vane in the MAF opened, even slightly?
What I'm saying is, it's time to trouble shoot the fuel system. Fuel pump, COR, filter, lines, electrical system, etc?
If you need more details, let us know
Pat☺
IF the fuel pump runs when tested, is enough pressure AND volume arriving at the fuel rail? Does the fuel pump run with the key in start as I mentioned above? Can you hear the fuel pump run with the key in ON and the vane in the MAF opened, even slightly?
What I'm saying is, it's time to trouble shoot the fuel system. Fuel pump, COR, filter, lines, electrical system, etc?
If you need more details, let us know
Pat☺
09-14-2021, 06:18 PM
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93' 22re Pickup. Fired it up after way too long (probably close to 2 years) and it ran fine, parked it on the street. Tried to start it up to move it back and it turns over fine, but won't start, doesn't even try to start. Haven't checked for spark yet (need to get help from someone). Guessing it could be a fuel issue.
Thoughts on the steps needed to diagnose and then fix? I appreciate the help. Trying to get this old truck up and running asap so I can sell it. My wife is due with our 5th in a month, and we move into a new home the same week she's due, so having to deal with this truck right now isn't ideal.
I really appreciate any help you can provide.
Thanks guys!
Thoughts on the steps needed to diagnose and then fix? I appreciate the help. Trying to get this old truck up and running asap so I can sell it. My wife is due with our 5th in a month, and we move into a new home the same week she's due, so having to deal with this truck right now isn't ideal.
I really appreciate any help you can provide.
Thanks guys!
09-14-2021, 06:24 PM
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93' 22re Pickup. Fired it up after way too long (probably close to 2 years) and it ran fine, parked it on the street. Tried to start it up to move it back and it turns over fine, but won't start, doesn't even try to start. Haven't checked for spark yet (need to get help from someone). Guessing it could be a fuel issue.
Thoughts on the steps needed to diagnose and then fix? I appreciate the help. Trying to get this old truck up and running asap so I can sell it. My wife is due with our 5th in a month, and we move into a new home the same week she's due, so having to deal with this truck right now isn't ideal.
I really appreciate any help you can provide.
Thanks guys!
Thoughts on the steps needed to diagnose and then fix? I appreciate the help. Trying to get this old truck up and running asap so I can sell it. My wife is due with our 5th in a month, and we move into a new home the same week she's due, so having to deal with this truck right now isn't ideal.
I really appreciate any help you can provide.
Thanks guys!
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