'92 Toyota Pickup 22RE no spark
#1
'92 Toyota Pickup 22RE no spark
I have a 92 Toyota pickup 22RE 4WD manual. I have a cranking but no spark issue. I’ve replaced the coil, distributor cap, rotor, wires, and plugs as it needed a tune-up and figured I’d start there. No luck and still no spark.
I tested for continuity from the igniter to the ECU and they all have continuity so no breaks in the wires. (One wire did have continuity to multiple pins on the ECU side (issue?)) I opened up the ECU and everything looks sparkly and clean, No corrosion or burns.
When I bought it the guy said that it was blowing the AM2 fuse (30amp) and he thought that it had a short somewhere. The fuse box at the AM2 fuse is mangled/melted so I cut the wires at the bottom of the fuse box and wired a 30 amp fuse up.
I’ve checked timing and it is timed correctly. I opened the distributor and lined up the rotor to cylinder 1 point, pulled sparkplug at #1 and it was at TDC. I checked the pully at the bottom of the engine and it was a hair off from 0 degrees. I checked the pickup coil in the distributor and it measured 197ohms (spec is 125-290 ohms).
I’ve started chasing wires backwards. I have 12V at the B-R wire that goes to the coil and ignitor from the ignition switch. I have 12V to the coil and 12V coming out of the wire from the coil to distributor cap. I do not have voltage coming out of the cap. I checked the air gap between the pickup coil and the rotor shaft. I didn’t have a feeler gauge on me at the time but used 2 pieces of paper. I could get 2 pieces, but not 3, in the gap. That's roughly .008 +/- which is the minimum spec for that gap.
I have checked the open circuit relay behind the speaker above the ECU and it looks clean and no corrosion on the pins. I can hear it click when I attempt to start it.
Anything else I should be checking for?
I'm thinking that the ignitor might be bad?
I tested for continuity from the igniter to the ECU and they all have continuity so no breaks in the wires. (One wire did have continuity to multiple pins on the ECU side (issue?)) I opened up the ECU and everything looks sparkly and clean, No corrosion or burns.
When I bought it the guy said that it was blowing the AM2 fuse (30amp) and he thought that it had a short somewhere. The fuse box at the AM2 fuse is mangled/melted so I cut the wires at the bottom of the fuse box and wired a 30 amp fuse up.
I’ve checked timing and it is timed correctly. I opened the distributor and lined up the rotor to cylinder 1 point, pulled sparkplug at #1 and it was at TDC. I checked the pully at the bottom of the engine and it was a hair off from 0 degrees. I checked the pickup coil in the distributor and it measured 197ohms (spec is 125-290 ohms).
I’ve started chasing wires backwards. I have 12V at the B-R wire that goes to the coil and ignitor from the ignition switch. I have 12V to the coil and 12V coming out of the wire from the coil to distributor cap. I do not have voltage coming out of the cap. I checked the air gap between the pickup coil and the rotor shaft. I didn’t have a feeler gauge on me at the time but used 2 pieces of paper. I could get 2 pieces, but not 3, in the gap. That's roughly .008 +/- which is the minimum spec for that gap.
I have checked the open circuit relay behind the speaker above the ECU and it looks clean and no corrosion on the pins. I can hear it click when I attempt to start it.
Anything else I should be checking for?
I'm thinking that the ignitor might be bad?
#2
Registered User
Damn dude, sounds like you covered almost everything. I say almost because it still doesn't have spark. Is anything else damaged from that burnt fuse? Something was wrong somewhere to melt it down.
If it is a bad igniter you might be in for a search. IDK for sure but I've seen a lot of posts where people said it's NLA and they search the salvage yards for one. I saw a post where somebody used a Chevy module to replace one.
Sorry I have nothing to offer than saying good luck and I hope you post up what you find. You sound like you're not giving up so looking forward to your fix.
Scott
If it is a bad igniter you might be in for a search. IDK for sure but I've seen a lot of posts where people said it's NLA and they search the salvage yards for one. I saw a post where somebody used a Chevy module to replace one.
Sorry I have nothing to offer than saying good luck and I hope you post up what you find. You sound like you're not giving up so looking forward to your fix.
Scott
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sigley89 (12-17-2023)
#6
you can bypass the open circuit relay, but afaik it's for fuel delivery only, not spark.
i'd be looking at the no-spark troubleshooting sequence in the fsm, but things are confusing here because of that blown fuse.
fwiw the later model ignitors should still be available, it wouldn't hurt to have a backup.
i'd be looking at the no-spark troubleshooting sequence in the fsm, but things are confusing here because of that blown fuse.
fwiw the later model ignitors should still be available, it wouldn't hurt to have a backup.
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