snyderiii

First time doing this... everything disassembled after reading the many threads on here. Went to remove the right cam sprocket. I lost my grip on the pulley holding tool and the cam "popped" about two thirds of the way counter clockwise off the tdc mark. I about freaked out... still am actually. For good measure I cranked it back clockwise to see if I could get it to line back up and it sprung/popped about 180 degrees clockwise which meant it was not to the right of tdc about 15 or 20 degrees. This time (im a slow learner) I very carefully turned the pulley tool until the right cam (counter clockwise) until the sprocket was lined back up to tdc. Now what? Am I going to have timing issues forever? If I get those sprockets off (to check/replace cam seals) is there some kind of spring retensioning im going to have to deal with. Have both fsm and haynes and they dont mention this? Oooorrrrr, should I just stop because the random independent rotation of the right cam sprocket is going to have me hosed.

Thanks.

DeathCougar

iTrader: (23)

Just line up the marks, and you will be fine. The reason its "popping" is because the valve springs are trying to force the valve closed.

You shouldn't have any timing issues what so ever as long as your match marks are ok. The cam can spin either way without any issues.

herbsicecream

I have had this issue today. My passenger side cam springs forward when I try to get the new belt on. Is there a good way to get it on there while holding everyting in TDC? Struggled with it for an hour and cut up my hands good.

rworegon

What I do is get the belt on the driver side cam and then use a soft jaw spring clamp to hold it in place. Then I use a breaker bar and socket on the passenger cam bolt to control the jump while placing the belt on the cam and one on, place a clamp on it.
Sometimes if the belt is fighting me, I'll use a ratchet/breaker bar on the driver side cam bolt and then turn it counter-clockwise to get a little slack while turning the driver side side very slight clockwise.....this works for me to get both belt on both cam TDC marks.

Brianm640

Yeah, a breaker bar works best for me to control the valvebounce(as I call it). Ratchets tend to spring one way or the other, the breaker bar will hold it as long as you're holding it. If you got a buddy who will help hold it, that works too.

The biggest issue I had was trying to do this all while I had the tensioner still in. I realized its so much easier if I just reset the tensioner and put a pin in it than trying to fight it.

Trenklege

I am replacing my water pump and I am at the point now where I need to take the timing belt off but the crank marks are off an inch when the cam marks are at tdc. What would cause this to happen, truck seems to be running fine. Also the crank bolt was very easy to loosen. I had the belt replaced 30000 miles ago and the water pump is leaking. What do I do? Should I align the cam marks before I pull the belt and rotate the crank aligning the marks when I put the new belt on?

rworegon

The 5vz-fe is a non-interference engine so you can rotate both cams and crank without issues when the belt is off.
Be sure to torque the crank bolt to 217 ft-lbs when reinstalling.

SacRunner

I assume you're only looking at the marks stamped into the crank pulley and oil pump and the 2 cam pulleys and the rear timing cover, and not trying to align the marks on the belt.

Are you saying that when the marks on the 2 cams are at 12:00 (and lined up with the marks on the timing cover) that the mark on the crank pulley is an inch away from the mark on the oil pump? That would not be good, and yes, make sure all the marks are lined up correctly during re-assembly.

Even though the belt only has 30K on it, I would go buy a new TOYOTA timing belt (either from a dealer or one of the many Amazon/eBay sellers) for $60 or so, which will have all the correct marks on the belt which makes the re-assembly that much easier.

herbsicecream

Yeah I ended up just throwing a set of gloves on and I grabbed it in a way where I could force it to TDC perfectly and then tossed the belt on and pulled the release on the tensioner. Its started/ran perfectly so I was quite pleased. Not bad for a back yard, 16 year old doing the job. Haha

Trenklege

Yes that is correct. I lined up all the timing marks on the cams and crank, just got it all put back together and now the truck won't start. It wants to, it's turning over and it acts like it wants fuel. I did have a leak at the thermostat because we forgot to tighten down the bolts. We were able to tighten and stop the leak. I also heard one knock the first time I turned the key. The water pump and tb was just replaced two years ago by a mechanic and he did a poor job. Wondering if he didn't time the crank and that's why it's off an in or it slipped. Belt looked like new.

rworegon

What mark on the crank gear did you line up to the oil pump? Hopefully, it was the small dimple that sits below one of those small teeth on the crank gear.

The right hand picture in post #5 shows the proper crank TDC alignment: https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f120...-5vzfe-285210/

Did you replace the front seal and possible bend or break off on of those crank timing gear teeth?

You do have the intake all installed and all electrical connections are nice and tight?

Trenklege

Yes I linedit up with the dimple and rotated it two times and all marks lined up. I don't think a tooth is broken because I didn't touch the seal.

I'm taking it apart tomorrow to check all the electrical connections. Any other suggestions for me to check, Double check? Thanks

jbar

What pin are you referring to? What's its purpose?

rworegon

The pin being referred to is the pin (small Allen wrench, small diameter stiff wire) that holds the hydraulic tensioner is a compressed state while installing the timing belt. The pin is pulled after the belt is correctly in position.

Caleb94

Im new here and just swapped a 5vz in my 94 pickup well i was doing the headgasket and went to install everything and saw my crankpulley sits at the 5 on the gauge by the crank pulley indicating 5degrees advance (that's also what my scan tool says) BUT my crank sproket sits at TDC along with my cams. My question is do I have to reinstall everything and see (what I've been told but see no sense in doing) or can I go ahead and turn it to 0 and install everything?

mydavestrong

They are about a 1/4 inch to the right of the marks on the cam gear backing plate. It looks to me like the belt slipped a tooth and the marks are off now. This isn't surprising since the water pump has had a pretty bad leak and probably got the belt wet.