bringbackpluto06

Hey everyone!

I've been working on doing the timing chain for a while now. I'm taking my time to make sure I do things the right way and I've hit a bit of a speed bump.

Upon removing the valve cover i noticed the cam dowel is not exactly at 12:00 at TDC like it's supposed to be (see picture) and the dimple (circled in red) isn't either, but the crankshaft notch is (see picture). I'm not entirely sure how to proceed from here. Does that mean they're out of sync and there's a chance that when I start the engine the valves are going to get bent? How can I make sure they're properly in sync? I would greatly appreciate any help!

KYLEFOO

Eh.. That cam looks like it's advanced a tooth but I'm no pro. I've adjusted mine by removing the bolt and distributor gear then using a 18" breaker bar to push in the chain tensioner. Be careful if you go that route and turn the engine over by hand before hitting the starter. You had it apart for what?

bringbackpluto06

Well I'm taking it apart to replace the timing chain guides because the plastic one of the driver side broke. I had removed the crankshaft pulley but I stopped when i noticed the cam mark wasn't where it was supposed to be and thought maybe I can fix it now before continuing.

When I had it running if I lightly stepped on the accelerator the truck would sputter. Would that be a symptom of a jumped tooth?

KYLEFOO

Classic. When you get the new set, both gears have dimples that you'll align shiny/dark links to on the chain. Don't worry, it's pretty easy if you're planning to take it apart and doing a new chain. Post up if you end up hitting a snag.

KYLEFOO

Just spring for a kit from engnbldr. If the guide broke, it's better to just get the kit and be done with it for another 150k miles

bringbackpluto06

Cool man! I appreciate your help. I definitely got the kit from engnbldr after reading so much about the topic.

I hit another road block, however. The damn oil pump drive spline doesn't want to come off! In the Haynes repair manual it shows the guy just pulling it off by hand. Can I remove the valve cover first and then remove the spline? Or do I have to remove the spline first? If so, how do I do that if I can't remove it by hand?

KYLEFOO

When you remove the cover, don't miss the bolt that goes from the head to the cover. It's under the distributor drive gear and covered in oil. You'll bend the bolt and snap the cover if you try to pry it off before removing that bolt :-) I've never had the oil pump gear stick. I believe the cover will come off without removing that gear. Standard penetrating lubricant, hitting prying and heat should remove the oil pump gear.

highonpottery

iTrader: (1)

IIRC my oil pump drive spline was not an easy slip-off either. I think I simply took 2 pry bars and popped it off. A gear puller would likely be smarter, but that worked for me as it was immediately available in my toolbox. I'd assume it's already got a good coating of oil on it - I think mine was just wedged on that keyway slot, sounds like yours might be too.

zascott607

A lot of people get worried about the cam being a little off to the left of 12:00. Mine, however, somehow ended up being at about 4pm after a recent head install. Not sure how, but I rushed and didn't read up enough. How do I get it properly aligned. Remove the head? I feel resistance when rotating the cam so stopped. There is no compression on the cylinders and no start, but no banging noise when turning over the starter.

KYLEFOO

It sounds like you're in a bad spot. If the cam is truly at 4" and you tried to start it, the valves got bent. With the pulley at 0" the cam dowel should be at 12" or 6". Pull the valve cover and verify this and let us know. Take pics of the cam with the pulley at 0"

zascott607

Well, after trying to rotate the crank and it having significantly more resistance than is normal, I counter-rotated the cam a little and got more play in the crank to rotate the crank. Then counter-rotated the cam a little more and got the crank to 12 o clock on the keyhole. Now at the exact point, the cam also lined up with the dot on the sprocket at 11:45 to the arrow on the head. I don't know if it bent anything. When I turned it over and a mechanic shop turned it over, it just spun with no loud sound, but like it had no compression, sure enough it had none from a compression test. What do I do at this point to check for bent valves?

zascott607

Timing cover is off, btw.

KYLEFOO

If the cover is off then just redo the chain job. Put the crank at 0" so the dowel is at 12" loosen up all the valve adjusters then put the cam dowel at 12". When you put the chain on just line the shiny links up with the dimples on the gears. The dimples are not the dowel holes, they are little dimples on the teeth on the cam gear and oil pump gear. Once the chain is on then set valve lash to .07" intake and .11" exhaust. You should be getting some kind of compression with this process complete. Since you're having trouble, turn it over by putting a wrench on the crank bolt and turning it clockwise.
To do a compression check, the engine needs to be put together and you keep your foot on the gas while cranking the starter.

zascott607

Yes sir, that is how my book says. It is good to hear you move on from saying "bent valves" to now saying "should have compression". Did you move on and give me some assurance because I said it has not made loud noises during cranking? That is the kind of info only experience and, not books, gives, which I appreciate.

I've done this process a couple times and somehow missed something important with timing, so had to buy a new head already, and would appreciate this one being operable and a success. I've gone from the hardships of going from knowing zilch to installing my own motor and learning as I go it alone with no mentors.

zascott607

Oh I have to put it all together before I can compression check for bent valves?

KYLEFOO

I'm not saying it's fine or not. Redo the timing and take pictures of the oil pump gear and the cam gear. We're looking for the dimples and shiny links lining up. When I see that then we'll move on to setting valve lash and reassembly. Maybe you can check compression with the engine torn apart but I wouldn't.

KYLEFOO

Something like this would be what you need to check for bent valves and it works without cranking the engine so you could check before you put the chain cover and valve cover on.

http://www.toolplanet.com/product/Au...fNEaAodD8P8HAQ

zascott607

That is sharp input with a leak-down test. Going to get one of these kits. I'd rather pay $50 or possibly borrow one instead of putting all of this back together, yet.

Thank you for being generous and selfless with your time.

KYLEFOO

KYLEFOO

I made little red arrows pointing at where the dimples should be. The first pic clearly shows the shiny link lining up with the dimple. The oil pump gear should be the same