dbond253

Ok so I am pretty new here and I have searched and searched but I am having some issues with my truck (92 pickup 22re 5spd 200k) I just did my head gasket/timing chain and while I was at it I did spark plugs, cap and rotor, coil, afm, adjusted valves, changed fuel filter, adjusted tps, and new O2 sensor. So heres whats going on When I start the truck it has to crank a few times before it starts (before I started haveing head gasket problems it started right away) and then If I am turning the wheel while slowly moving sometimes on trails sometimes on the road it will stall but start right back up, also if I am starting out on a slight hill I have to give it lots of gas or it feels like it will stall, and while driving it will bog down when accelerating or going up hills and putting the pedal to the floor does nothing. do I have a bad fuel pump? Or FPR? Or could the injecters be bad? I hear a ticking coming from the back of the engine occasionally and its not valves, it happens most when I rev the engine and as its going back to idle the ticking starts then will go away after idleing I know its a long post but I really want this issue fixed hope I gave enough info I'm going to go pick up a fuel pressure tester later today and I will post the results

dbond253

I have checked for vacuum leaks

dbond253

So I rented a fuel pressure tester from autozone and I did the key on engine off part and got no pressure on the gauge then I started it and the pressure guage started leaking out of the drain tube so I clamped it off with vise grips and I got 36-38 psi with the fuel pressure hose attached and 44-46 with it detached my haynes manual says it should be between 33-44 detached and 33-37 with it attached so does that mean I have a bad FPR?

yodafan93

hows your oil look? does the ticking sound top or bottom end? good luck.

dbond253

Top end kind of like the back of the valve cover oil level is fine

yodafan93

well, i was thinking maybe spun bearing, and youd be looking for flakes/shavings in the oil. i have no idea from my computer chair.

dbond253

Ok I traced the ticking sound to a slight exhaust leak so thats not a issue anymore and I did some testing on my fuel pressure regulator and it sounds like its ok but its really hard to tell wouldn't a bad fuel pump be causeing more problems than just under load?

dbond253

Well I got a good deal on a denso fuel pump $100 amazon so I will put that in and see if thats the problem.

SPARKS89

iTrader: (1)

You're on the high end of both readings (attached and detached) so I'd say your fuel pump is good. You definitely have good flow. But being on the high end makes me think your FPR is bad/going bad. It sounds like your dumping too much fuel into the cylinders and you're not getting the right mix so it's bogging. Check your spark plugs and see how they look. That'll tell you a lot about your air/fuel mix.

dbond253

But why would I not be getting fuel pressure with the key on?

dbond253

Ok so I have replaced the FPR with one from a junkyard I have not checked fuel pressure yet but I test drove it and it didn't really make a difference so I pulled the spark plugs to inspect them and all of them looked good except the #3 cylinder plug was black when I removed the plug wires the clips popped off all of the wires I did pull from the boot and when I installed them I put di electric grease on the boots thankfully the wires had a warrenty so I got new ones and replaced them but it made no difference when I test drove my truck... So it looks like I'm chasing a spark issue as well as fuel dilivery...

SPARKS89

iTrader: (1)

I'm starting to wonder why you replaced so much at one time? Like the AFM, O2 sensor and adjusted the other stuff. Have you tried swapping back to your old parts to eliminate the possibility of any new parts causing the problem?

dbond253

I have not tried that yet ya it is kinda weird that I had to swapped so much stuff but when I swapped the o2 and afm it made a significant improvement

SPARKS89

iTrader: (1)

You got good readings on your fuel pressure when you tested it so it doesn't sound to me likes it a problem with getting fuel. Are you sure your timing is correct? Is it possible you're off a tooth on the chain? I haven't had to do that work to my truck so I don't have any experience with it. I'm just going off what I've read from other people. Also, are you sure you're getting good spark to the #3 cylinder? Your rotor and cap are new along with your plugs and wires. I can't see any of that being a problem..... Maybe a valve issue? Did you turn it over by hand after you did the timing chain and watch the valves move? Is your catalytic converter clogged?

I'm running out of ideas so I'm trying to think of anything I can. In my mind it has to be something related to the work you just did since you didn't have this problem before the work, but anything can happen.

dbond253

Ok so I went back over everything with the starting fluid trying to find a vaccum leak and I found one in my intake pipe between the afm and throttle body which I caulked and it smoothed out and brought my idle down but I still have a heisitation/misfire under load I ordered some ngk plug wires because the ones I got warrentied broke again as a side note people if you are looking for parts, ngk, denso ect check amazon they don't have everything but I have found some good deals there, I don't think I mentioned but if I turn all my lights on (I have some kc hilights 100watts) and my fan full blast the engine starts to bog down also if I am sitting at a idle and turn the wheels it bogs down my next step I think will be swapping my fuel pump but I just don't know if thats it is it possible my tps is bad? I adjusted it to spec but I'm trying to go back over everything I have done I have readjusted valves gone over every vaccum connection multiple times made sure all my vaccum hoses are correctly routed I need help guys I want to get back wheeling without worrying about my truck breaking down...

INFINITY

they use a cor that is controlled by either the ecu or afm. it is a safety feature so your fuel pump will not be running if the motor is not turning. so if you wreck there will not be gas spraying all over with only the key on.

Kiroshu

Heavy electrical loads on the alternator can reduce engine speed at times... test alternator...? Battery...? Good battery connections...? Grounds...?

Reduced engine power...?
-Incorrect spark plug gap
-Weak charging system
-Faulty or out of spec Air flow Meter
-Exhaust restrictions
-Internal engine damage
^-- Head gasket failure... --> possible burnt valve..? damaged piston and or connecting rod assembly..?
-Low compression
-Incorrect engine timing
-Intake manifold leaks..?
-EGR valve stuck open and or opening too early...?

dbond253

Infinity, if that is the case why does it say in my manual that there is supposed to be fuel pressure with the key on engine off?

Kiroshu

There is sustained pressure on the fuel system after the fuel pump is turned off. This is what Toyota refers to with KOEO(Key on engine off) fuel pressure.

Jakez

I know this thread is old but I am having the same issues like word for word.. did you ever figure out what the problem was?