22RE-GM Alternator swap - Give me the run down
06-20-2010, 11:17 AM
#41
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I could do that. But since it's a different stator, I'm not sure. I think, IIRC, I need to replace the board(rectifier board? 
) because it was not in the greatest shape. That might help to replace that.
) because it was not in the greatest shape. That might help to replace that.
06-20-2010, 08:39 PM
#46
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ok another question, so I'm about to dive into the swap tomorrow, and had a random question....I'm planning on running a new 4 gauge wire from the alternator to the battery with a 150 amp fuse, but, what if I piggybacked the wiring that already runs through the fuse box and kept the stock alternator (through the fuse box) to the battery line and put an ~80 amp fuse on the new line (because when you double the fuses, you have to add them together for the equivalent of 1 fuse). Does that make sense? Or should I just terminate the original wire completely and run the single wire with the 150 amp fuse? Would removing the original wire completely mess anything up? I wouldn't think so...
06-20-2010, 08:49 PM
#47
A PO had already messed with my wiring, so I didn't start from stock. My alt goes straight to positve bat terminal and the 80amp factory wire that feeds the electronics is attached to the positive bat terminal also. I haven't installed a fuse yet. The onboard electronics are fused. I'm running 0/1 welding wire and the alt puts out 105amp max. Yes, I'm playing chance if I have a short. All wiring is extra insulated.
06-20-2010, 09:12 PM
#48
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A PO had already messed with my wiring, so I didn't start from stock. My alt goes straight to positve bat terminal and the 80amp factory wire that feeds the electronics is attached to the positive bat terminal also. I haven't installed a fuse yet. The onboard electronics are fused. I'm running 0/1 welding wire and the alt puts out 105amp max. Yes, I'm playing chance if I have a short. All wiring is extra insulated.
Am I forgetting anything?
06-21-2010, 06:20 AM
#49
Ok to get this straight, I need to hook up the 80 amp alternator fuse in the fuse box back to the battery, convert the oem alt wiring connecter to the GM connector head, then I'll run a thicker wire ~4 gauge, whatever the thickest wire the local shop has directly from the alt. to the battery, fuse it, then insulate the crap out of it with that plastic wire loom stuff. Then I'm going to piggy back all my grounds for the "big 3 upgrade" making sure the grounds are clean and connected solidly.
Am I forgetting anything?
Am I forgetting anything?
Good luck, if I can help let me know.
06-21-2010, 08:34 AM
#50
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Awesome I just picked up some 2 guage wiring for the alt to battery and 4 guage for piggybacking the grounds. Thanks for all your help!
06-21-2010, 08:33 PM
#52
Really tyou want all three the same gauge. You really should read some of the write ups on the upgrade. The stereo guys go more into depth as to why and whats taking place. Cause really your statement tell me you don't understand the charging system of your truck. Being an arse about this is not my intensions but to understand and trouble shoot the upgrade when problems occur you need the knowledge behind it. Yes problems will come up sooner or later.
06-22-2010, 06:08 PM
#53
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Nope, swapping the bracket out is a big pain in the ass, and I ran into some other issues, but I'm getting there 
I really don't have a full grasp on the system, I just haven't had the time to read up on it which is why I'm very grateful for all your help! Well I think I'll have extra 2 guage so I'll ground what I can with that for now and then I'll get some more 2 guage to match it if I need it.
I do have one more question about the wire coming from the fuse box that I'm supposed to hook up to the battery...do I connect the wire that would go out to the stock alternator up to the battery or is it another wire that gets connected to the battery? I haven't looked into the wiring for the fuse box yet, but It'd help me out if when I did I knew I was looking for the right wire.
Really tyou want all three the same gauge. You really should read some of the write ups on the upgrade. The stereo guys go more into depth as to why and whats taking place. Cause really your statement tell me you don't understand the charging system of your truck. Being an arse about this is not my intensions but to understand and trouble shoot the upgrade when problems occur you need the knowledge behind it. Yes problems will come up sooner or later.
I do have one more question about the wire coming from the fuse box that I'm supposed to hook up to the battery...do I connect the wire that would go out to the stock alternator up to the battery or is it another wire that gets connected to the battery? I haven't looked into the wiring for the fuse box yet, but It'd help me out if when I did I knew I was looking for the right wire.
06-22-2010, 07:00 PM
#54
Mine had already been messed. The stock alt wire goes throuh the fuse box 80amp then to the bat. My alt line goes straight to bat and the fuse box is wired straight to the bat. Turns out to be one to the methods used in one of the links I posted.
06-23-2010, 08:57 AM
#55
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The wires coming up from the bottom of the screen are under the air box, so I removed it. There are two wires coming off where the stock alternator goes, what appears to be a 6 guage white wire and around a 10 guage white wire with a green pattern on it. The smaller wire with the green on it goes through what appears to be a fuse along with the idiot light wire, the sense wire, and the ignition wire and a ground. So I'm assuming that is what powers something up in the dash and the thicker wire goes to the fuse box to the 80 amp fuse, but before it goes to the fuse box, it goes to that connector box before it. What is that for? If I'm thinking correctly, this will be completely removed since I'm just going to splice into that wire right at the fuse box and run it straight to the battery. Then I also have to hook up the smaller white wire with the green pattern to the new alternator along with the direct line from the alt to the battery correct?
Sorry for the redundancy, I'm just a total newb to wiring and learn better with my eyes than reading.
06-23-2010, 01:00 PM
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Ok I think I may have this figured out. I don't think I even need to worry about that smaller wire that goes to the stock alternator because I believe that is the regulator wire? Are 89 alt's internally or externally regulated? If it is for the external regulator, I don't need it since the cs130 is internally regulated.
Someone please correct me if I'm wrong.
Someone please correct me if I'm wrong.
06-23-2010, 08:02 PM
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06-23-2010, 08:26 PM
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haha
dude, this swap is a pain in the ass, I ended up gettin the small case cs130 and apparently you need a large case cs130 to fit TG's bracket, so I had to modify it a little bit and you wouldn't even need the swap kit with the small case alternator. Oh well, it's in and I have it mostly wired up, I just gotta finish puttin the fuse in the alt to bat line and then run one more wire and do my grounds and I'm done! I can't find anything on any of the writeups about the second wire that's connected to the stock alternator, maybe mines a freak alt. and no one's heard of it before lol I'm just gunna not use it for now and see what happens. Hopefully I'll get it done tomorrow!
dude, this swap is a pain in the ass, I ended up gettin the small case cs130 and apparently you need a large case cs130 to fit TG's bracket, so I had to modify it a little bit and you wouldn't even need the swap kit with the small case alternator. Oh well, it's in and I have it mostly wired up, I just gotta finish puttin the fuse in the alt to bat line and then run one more wire and do my grounds and I'm done! I can't find anything on any of the writeups about the second wire that's connected to the stock alternator, maybe mines a freak alt. and no one's heard of it before lol I'm just gunna not use it for now and see what happens. Hopefully I'll get it done tomorrow!
