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Great site. I have a 1991 Toyota 4x4 extended cab with a 22re, 5 speed transmission. The truck has about 200,000 miles and I had water in my oil the other day. I tore it down to find the timing chain had worn into the cover but I went ahead a replace head gasket and while I was at it I put a new fuel filter in and seal kits on all injectors and lapped the valves and put new gaskets on everything I took apart as well as seals that needed be. Also replaced timing chain and cover and water pump, etc. Now that I have it back together I jumped TE1 and E1 and set timing with light with specs from this site. When the truck idles, it idles rough and when you give it gas, it sounds like it is missing. When I drive it down the road it jumps and bucks bad also. I replaced plugs, wires, cap and button but no help. I have rechecked all hoses 3 different times and nothing found. Before I pt it all back together I cleaned everything really good with carb cleaner and gas and blowed all ports out with air. I noticed today if you let it idle a while and shut it off, it won't start back unless you hold flap open and poor gas down efi port or let it sit a while and it will start back but when you do either of those things, you have to hold it to the floor to get it to start and clear itself out. I have a new fuel pump I'm getting ready to put on and ordered a new o2 sensor today as code 21 comes up. I'm lost
Ok I went today and check dist. When I took cap off, the rotor button was aligned with #1 plug on cap and I moved it a tooth each way just to be sure but it wouldn't start so I put it back where it was and it still had a hard time starting. I had to poor gas down efi again and hold it to floor and even after it warms up and I shut it off and try to restart it back asap, it is very hard to get running again. I sprayed all hoses with carb cleaner to check for leaks to see if it reved up if there was a leak but nothing. I also check codes again and have code 21 which is o2 sensor signal, something about oxygen signal detoriation and I'm assuming when the chain tore into the case and allowed water into oil that it messed it up because I had no codes before that happened. But when I unplug the o2 sensor it runs even worse so I dunno if the sensor is bad or not. I was gonna move bed back and put new fuel pump in today but back 2 bolts are froze on me so gotta figure out how to break them loose and then change pump. Still has miss like a fouled plug when you put truck under load. I'm gonna check cold start plug and do compression test but everything looked fine when I had head off. The truck ran great until the timing cahin cover got tore by chain and water and oil got mixed and then truck started running bad. As I stated earlier everything was thouroughly cleaned and all new gaskets replaced, so any more thoughts on the issue?
Ok I just checked the cold start injector and was getting around 4 ohms and I checked the plug and had my daughter to crank the truck and would get right at 7 volts and then it would drop to 0 volts if she kept cranking but when she would stop cranking and start again it would jump to 7 volts and then back to 0 volts. Once the engine is at operating temperature, the plug reads 0 volts when you crank on it. TPS seems to be working as if I unplug it, it revs up in idle and if I unplug the o2 sensor it completely dies out and won't start back until you plug it back up even though it's throwing code 21. I let it run a while and it seems to be idling fine but the engine shakes a little but when you take off you can tell it has a miss and when you go down the road and get rpms up to 2000 or better it starts bucking and jumping bad. Could all this be from the o2 sensor code? I have one on order but am wondering is there anything else I can do until it comes in. I think I also read somewhere to run seafoam thru the EFI with a hose and funnel to clean out everything. Is this true?
Just a stab at it but is your maf connector plugged in all the way? Mine did some weird stuff like this after my head job and i found i didnt get it all the way back in.
Ya xxxwing I actually checked it while the truck was running. I unplugged it and the truck started running worse so when I plugged it back in, it cleared up but not to the point of completely fixing my issues with it. I found a thread on here about seafoam and I'm gonna try that tomorrow and see what happens.
Went today and tried to start the truck and I ended up having to poor gas down the EFI throat again to get it to start. Once I finally got it started, I took the brake booster hose off and poored a whole can of Seafoam into the EFI throat and boy did it smoke. I let it run for a minute or two and a buddy and I drove it down the road. Man is was smoking then but the good thing was the miss is gone and the truck is running ALOT better now. I can't believe that 1 can of Seafoam made that much difference. I'm still gonna replace the fuel pump since I have a new one and gonna rinse the gas tank out and then I'm gonna run another can thru the EFI throat again and also run 1 can through the tank with about 5 gallon of gas and drive it a bit before I fill it up, hopefully that will clean it completely out then. I'm hoping by doing this it will also make it start easier when it's cold. Seafoam is the way to go when you run out of things to do. I'll keep you guys posted on the outcome of the rest of the things I have to do.
Finally changed out fuel pump and truck had a bad manifold exhaust leak. Upon further inspection, I found my manifold was warped bad so I took it to my brothers machine shop and he sanded and straighten it for me. No exhaust leak now and truck is running great but 1 thing was, took me about a week to get manifold fixed as I was taking my time so truck sat about a week. When I got manifold on today the truck wouldn't start so I had to poor gas down the efi port again to get it to start. Once it started it ran fine and I can let it sit overnight and it starts fine but after sitting a week it won't start unless I poor gas down it. What would cause this? Could it be cold start injector? or gas bleeding off after a couple days?
I have a 91 and just bought it well used. It ran and started but ran a little rough after it warmed up but ran down the highway fine. Now it just turns over and over but won't start. Heeeeelp. I hear a click which I'm sure is under the hood passenger side but sounds from inside like its under the dash on the passenger side????????????
I have a 91 and just bought it well used. It ran and started but ran a little rough after it warmed up but ran down the highway fine. Now it just turns over and over but won't start. Heeeeelp. I hear a click which I'm sure is under the hood passenger side but sounds from inside like its under the dash on the passenger side????????????
There is a relay under the passenger speaker in my 94 xtra cab, called the circuit opening relay. Check to see if it's unplugged, if not, replace it. It opens the circuit for the fuel pump. I forgot to hook it up after doing dash work, and I had the same problem. It may be behind the kick panel, it can be a little hard to find but it's there.
I wonder if it has something to do with your fuel pressure regulator? I would try disconnecting your fuel line from the rail and turning the ignition to see if the fuel pump is priming the system. The fuel pump should turn on as soon as the ignition is turned to "on". (maybe? not 100% sure if thats how the yota's system operates. I know chevy's do it that way) I had a similar problem that was fixed with a can of seafoam in the tank and driving like hell for about 35 miles wrapping the engine up to 4000 or 5000 rpm before shifting. EFI's are great for a lot of reasons except when you have issues like this.
Cpt_Buckout i have to agree with bjlambert, i had the same issue i simply short circuited the relay so my pump runs as soon as i turn the key on (dosent hurt anything just recircs the fuel) luckiyu2 check this relay it could cause the hard starts if it seems to be ok replace the O2 i spent over a month trying to troubleshoot hard starting, rough idle, and lack of power because the idle changed when i unplugged the O2 but it all went away when i replaced the it (took 30 min and was like $30)
I have a Toyota pickup 1991 and here is my problem. I have a problem idle. when I ride and I want accelerates it remains at the same level even if the pedal is to do and I play with and gives it a shot and go faster after some pedal push and some time i need to down chift dificult tu go up 30000 rpm buck has some idle he not respon waht the probleme
09-14-2009, 01:35 PM
