xalier

the other 2 hoses on the valve or whatever goes to the big screw for the power steering fuel is what i was told a while back... its right in the middle of the upp manifold like a 17mm screw..

xalier

well i checked the air gap and its in tolerance.. it put it at 5* TDC put the dist back in still the same thing

xxxtreme22r

xalier, where are you located? CT?

thook

Just to make sure we're on the same page.......

So, when your crank is at 5*btdc, your rotor is pointing at 10 o'clock?

thook

Big screw? As in the big screw with a flat head screwdriver slot? That's the a/c idle up valve. You might notice there's no power steering fluid lines going to it. Power steering control valve is down by the pump itself.

1990yota-pickup

good luck.. a few wrongs and you will get it.. just dont give up..

xalier

yes sir.. hell im starting to think i blew a head gasket all i can get out of it is back fire..

ac idle up huh.. well atleast i learned something new today... i dont have ac on my truck anymore.. so could i just take that valve off and block the lines off?

put a new set of plugs in yesterday same thing

i live in ringgold ga its in the nw corner of the state near chattanooga tn..

thook

Yes, you can remove the switching valve and the idle up adjusting valve and cap everything off.

Back fire doesn't necessarily mean headgasket, but maybe now's a good time to go ahead and check compression on all cylinders.

snobdds

Is your coil wire hooked up? Are you geting good current to the spark plugs? Are you getting fuel to the injectors? Is the AFM hooked up.

An engine only needs 3 things to run: Air, fuel, spark. After that it is just getting everything on sync with each other.

I always have to eliminate the simple stuff and go from there. As far as I can tell, your timing looks to be right.

xalier

thats what i thought 3 things and yay!!! lol but not for this guy.. im starting to think something it faulty with my injectors seems like 1 and 4 are fairly dry for as much as i tried to crank it.. but 2and 3 always look alot wetter.. is it possible 2 of the injectors got stuck open?? yes all wires hooked up.. ive checked the firing on #1 but didnt the rest i guess ill do a compression check and make sure they are all firing while i have the plugs out.. i also installed new wires with the new plugs the cap and button dont have 5k on them they still look new...

xalier

well i just did a compression check and it has 150 in all cylinders...

thook

Well, that's a little low, but 142 is the minimum and they're all even. So, nothing to worry about there.

Are you 100% positive you don't have any large vacuum lines disconnected, damaged, or misrouted? Is your AFM and coolant sensor connected?

xalier

well thats not good to hear its on the minimum.. so not to much life left in her anyways .. well its firing on all cylinders when i checked it i just had #1 plug installed and was check #4, #2 firing order and the damn thing started up with 1 plug installed and shocked the hell outta me.. im really asking my self wtf is really going on it started with 1 plug in lol.. ya all my vacuum lines are hooked up where they should be. AFM is hooked up.. im pretty sure the coolant sensor is which sensor is it on the front of the intake i have a green one and brown one.. one of them is broken.. could the coolant sensor cause this?

thook

It's the green one. It being broken would cause this.......if it's the one that's broken. Well, time switch....the brown one....could be a problem, too. So, which'n is it?

Drop some oil in the cylinders to see if that helps on the compression readings. However, are you sure you ran the test correctly? Motor warm and all that?

xalier

well it wont start so how can i get it warm lol? its pretty damn hot out here in ga though.. i unplugged the cold start injector and kept messing with the timing and i got it to run for about 6 seconds but it sounded like it was running on 2 cylinders... i could have did it wrong i thought it was pretty straight forward though.

thook

Hug it? I dunno....

So, which sensor is broken? The green one or the brown one?

xalier

it is the brown sensor on the passenger side.. whats it do? i looked up the compression in my manual and it said 120 for minimun and 170 was the max...

thook

The brown sensor is the cold start injector time switch. It provides the ground for activating the cold start injector under certain circumstances.

As warm as it is outside, the cold start system isn't really needed. So, this switch being broken is more than likely not your issue. Were it cold outside, that would be different.

Don't know what manual you refer to for the compression specs, but the one I use says 142psi as the minimum. Whatever...........150 is adequate for starting your vehicle. And, I don't suspect you having a headgasket issue being that all cylinders were even. But, I could be wrong. Have you checked the oil and/or coolant?

1990yota-pickup

i would just crack your oil plug a bit... remember oil will set on top of the oil.. so instead of draining your entire oil sump.. when not actually needed you will see the coolant coming out just as the plug is losen up but not quite ready to fall out..

its worth a shot.. and can save you about 16 bucks in oil

xalier

i dont have any coolant in the motor right now.. after i took the timing cover back off i never filled it back up. i was waiting to make sure i could get it running before i filled it back up in case i had to take it back apart again i would have to drain the block and radiator and all the goodness.. well i took the plugs out and they were fouled out again so i cleaned them put them back, unplugged the cold start injector and the brown sensor on the intake. I can get it to run for a few seconds and it will backfire and die, i kept slowly moving the dist back and forth seeing if it will get any better and it wont. so i walked it a tooth foward and backwards and it wont even try to start. so im pretty sure i have it all right but something is making it rich and out of timing. so im still here stairing at it twiddling my thumbs..