what is the green sensor next to the oil filter?
08-07-2010, 07:42 AM
#21
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well i took the valve cover off to check the timing chain and everything looks to be good but i think the tensioner is stuck i can move the crank from 0 to 10* and the cam doesnt move so im thinking i have to much slack in it from the tensioner not taken it out.. anyways here are some pix of the timing, i thought i would post them up to make sure it looks right to you guys..
and what is suppost to be on the end of this? can i just cap it off?
and what is suppost to be on the end of this? can i just cap it off?
08-09-2010, 06:40 AM
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sb5walker where are you??? 
does it look right to you? also noone knows what i can do to the then of that sensor that i circled? what is that sensor?
does it look right to you? also noone knows what i can do to the then of that sensor that i circled? what is that sensor?
08-09-2010, 06:54 AM
#28
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I have the 3.0, so I don't really feel qualified on matters of the timing chain. Since I've been on the forum I've learned that the engine control systems on both motors are essentially the same, and I have a lot of years experience working on many different engines, so that's why I felt I could contribute to your thread. But for a job like replacing the timing chain, I think someone who actually has done the job is better qualified. Hopefully, someone will kick in here eventually...
As for the "sensor", that looks like one of the VSVs. I would cap it until someone can identify which one it is, or let us know what the two attached vac tubes lead to - that will probably reveal which vsv it is.
As for the "sensor", that looks like one of the VSVs. I would cap it until someone can identify which one it is, or let us know what the two attached vac tubes lead to - that will probably reveal which vsv it is.
08-09-2010, 07:12 AM
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what are the caps for? they make me think of a breather/ presure releif.. someone chime in please.. come by the house lol anything to help a fellow yodaer
08-09-2010, 07:15 AM
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another thing on timing... when you have #1 at TDC should the rotor be at the front of the of it or in the center? i know this is hard to explain on the computer but im just trying to get the timing as close as possible so i was wondering if it would be in the center when at TDC or just starting to touch it as the rotor to the caps brass peice..?? i was thinking the center...
08-09-2010, 04:08 PM
#32
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looks right make sure your cam is indexed right. the #1 cylinder intake and exhaust valves rockers should be loose. The lobes on the cam pointing down. the dist. rotor should be centered on # 1 cap plug wire
08-09-2010, 06:39 PM
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negative on going.. both rocker are loose... it is centered... im hating this bs... ive left it apart hoping someone would point something wrong out.. but i guess ill put it all together tommrrow and try again.. this is a hell of a nitemare.. ive done many timing belts and chains and never had this much trouble... 
08-09-2010, 07:53 PM
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I hate to jump in so late on this thread (particularly because I have the 6cyl, so I know nothing about timing chains) ...
but, do you have a timing light? That will not help on the timing chain (which affects valve timing, and only secondarily ignition timing), but it will tell you right away if the ignition timing is close. Timing should be "about" 10 degrees BTDC, and if you are off one tooth on the distributor gear you will be off by about 27 degrees, so it is easy to see. Also, the timing light will confirm that you are getting a spark to #1.
And since the timing is 10degrees BTDC, when the engine is at TDC the distributor rotor should be a little (10 degrees) PAST the point where it is first close to the #1 plug post. But use the timing light; you will get a flash no matter how far off you are, as long as the ignition is working.
Under the hood should be a vacuum routing label, which might help you on the mystery VSV. Do you still have the label?
Good luck!
but, do you have a timing light? That will not help on the timing chain (which affects valve timing, and only secondarily ignition timing), but it will tell you right away if the ignition timing is close. Timing should be "about" 10 degrees BTDC, and if you are off one tooth on the distributor gear you will be off by about 27 degrees, so it is easy to see. Also, the timing light will confirm that you are getting a spark to #1.
And since the timing is 10degrees BTDC, when the engine is at TDC the distributor rotor should be a little (10 degrees) PAST the point where it is first close to the #1 plug post. But use the timing light; you will get a flash no matter how far off you are, as long as the ignition is working.
Under the hood should be a vacuum routing label, which might help you on the mystery VSV. Do you still have the label?
Good luck!
08-10-2010, 05:12 AM
#36
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nope no label trucks was totaled when i bought it and has had a new frame and front clip. i guess im going to put it back together and try again... i think its gettin too much fuel the plugs have loooked fouled every time i take them out..
08-10-2010, 05:18 AM
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i know that sensor used to have a cap on it like the other sensor in the pic but i dunno where it went they why i was asking if it would work right if i just cap it off..
08-11-2010, 01:51 PM
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how is your air gap in the cap and rotor on the magneto.. use a brass feeler gauge. iam think .08 but check in the book to get it right.. i made sure mine was in tolerance just to make sure i wasnt going to have any spark issues..
08-11-2010, 06:50 PM
#39
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Xalier....The 22re ignition timing should be set at 5-8*bdtc and should advance to 10*-14* when the Te1-E1 jumpered is removed and at idle. 10* timing setting is for the 3vze.
http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-b.../5distribu.pdf
If I had a broader view of the top end/valve cover of your motor I could tell you which vacuum switching valve that is.(BTW, it's not a sensor). There's only a few, anyway; one for the a/c, one for the fuel pressure regulator, and one for the EGR. If it's open to the atmosphere allowing extra unmetered air into the manifold, you should cap it off. It won't hurt anything to do so. You can fix it later once you get the motor running.
The rotor and cam look right on, but the crank pulley has to be at 5*btdc when the distributor is installed. Seems you said in your earlier posting you had the crank at 0*? Correct?
http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-b.../5distribu.pdf
If I had a broader view of the top end/valve cover of your motor I could tell you which vacuum switching valve that is.(BTW, it's not a sensor). There's only a few, anyway; one for the a/c, one for the fuel pressure regulator, and one for the EGR. If it's open to the atmosphere allowing extra unmetered air into the manifold, you should cap it off. It won't hurt anything to do so. You can fix it later once you get the motor running.
The rotor and cam look right on, but the crank pulley has to be at 5*btdc when the distributor is installed. Seems you said in your earlier posting you had the crank at 0*? Correct?
Last edited by thook; 08-12-2010 at 11:00 AM.
08-12-2010, 04:43 AM
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yes sir.. i am going by the book and it states to start the timing at 0*.. as for the boarder view you can see the keyway on the crank pointing straight up as in 12:00 if you look really close...
