What did i get into??
02-14-2012, 08:23 AM
#22
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I couldn't find anyone that sells a Toyota O2 sensor bung to weld into the new exhaust piping. After talking to a friend that works at the local Toyota dealer about where to get one, he says why don't you just make one? I hadn't thought of that Jason, thanks for the idea. So here's how to make your own O2 sensor bung.
I started with a piece of 3/8 steel and marked the outline with a gasket and drilled and tapped some holes (8mm x 1.25):
I used some exhaust studs from the dealer that were left over when I was putting on an ORS cross-over.
Then I started cutting it out with a cutoff wheel on an angle grinder:
After using a grinder and beltsander to smooth it out:
Now that was one bung, but I need two for the 5VZ. The first one took me about 2-3 hours to make so I decided to try cutting an old one out of my old 3.0 exhaust pipe and using it. That took about 2-3 hours too, counting replacing the old studs and smoothing it out with a grinder and beltsander too.
Here's the two side by side, the one I made from scratch will have to be welded in parallel to the pipe since it's not curved to the shape of the pipe:
02-14-2012, 04:51 PM
#24
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Mt. Goat, thanks for that write up. Your posting of it was perfect timing. I thought i could call the local exhaust shops and see if they had them or could get them. Well thats what i get for thinkin!! Lol. I've got the guys in the tooling section at work hunting down some 3/8 steel plate and im going to buy the o2 sensor. Since we have to make this on our own time, i expect this to be about a week in the making. I do have the abilty to put a perfect radius on the bottom side to get a good solid weld with.
Side note: I'm actually quite surprised how far the factory cat location is downstream from the engine. In my experience, the closer the cat is to the heat souce the better the heavy metal catalysts function. Also hotter gases tend to flow faster than colder gases. So, to me anyway, it seems that the factory place the cat in it's position for other reasons other than performance. I guess il just have to get an OBX longtube header, high flow cat, and a Spintech muffler.
And thanks for the concern for this great city. It's appreciated. Fortunately my home was two blocks away from total destruction. But my family and i rode it out in that truck.
Pre F5
Post F5
we were definatly looked out for
Side note: I'm actually quite surprised how far the factory cat location is downstream from the engine. In my experience, the closer the cat is to the heat souce the better the heavy metal catalysts function. Also hotter gases tend to flow faster than colder gases. So, to me anyway, it seems that the factory place the cat in it's position for other reasons other than performance. I guess il just have to get an OBX longtube header, high flow cat, and a Spintech muffler.
And thanks for the concern for this great city. It's appreciated. Fortunately my home was two blocks away from total destruction. But my family and i rode it out in that truck.
Pre F5
Post F5
we were definatly looked out for
02-16-2012, 08:30 PM
#26
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Ok. I made a o2 mount, welded it on, found the old o2 sensor zip tied to the underbody. Up towards the top of the trans. It looks like it runs into the cab under the drivers seat. Do i have to remove the seat and vinyl flooring to get to the connector or does it lead to somwhere else? The plug i saw under the hood isnt it like i initially thought. Now i have to figure out what that is and why its not connected. Also, can someone tell me the difference between "California" and "Federal" emissions equipment and why there are two different o2 sensors. I looked in the FSM i downloaded and didnt get alot of clarity out of it. Thanks
02-17-2012, 03:38 AM
#27
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On my 2001 Taco I had to remove the doorsill trim and lift the carpet inside. I did't have to remove the seat but it would have made it easier to reach if I had. My 93 truck it was all under the body, so it must vary model to model.
If you have 2 sensors, one is pre-cat (sensor#1) and one is post cat (#2). Sensor #1 reads the air/fuel ratio and the ECU makes adjustments to try to maintain stoichiometric perfection. Sensor #2 monitors the effectiveness of the cat, and tells you if you emit too much for the EPA's liking. Some of the new models use sensor #2 to occasionally calibrate sensor #1. I'm not sure what year that started but probably 2001 for the tacos when they started using the newer wide band sensors (A/F sensors).
If you have 2 sensors, one is pre-cat (sensor#1) and one is post cat (#2). Sensor #1 reads the air/fuel ratio and the ECU makes adjustments to try to maintain stoichiometric perfection. Sensor #2 monitors the effectiveness of the cat, and tells you if you emit too much for the EPA's liking. Some of the new models use sensor #2 to occasionally calibrate sensor #1. I'm not sure what year that started but probably 2001 for the tacos when they started using the newer wide band sensors (A/F sensors).
Last edited by mt_goat; 02-17-2012 at 03:45 AM.
02-17-2012, 04:08 AM
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On my 2001 Taco I had to remove the doorsill trim and lift the carpet inside. I did't have to remove the seat but it would have made it easier to reach if I had. My 93 truck it was all under the body, so it must vary model to model.
If you have 2 sensors one is pre-cat (sensor#1) and one is post cat (#2). Sensor #1 reads the air/fuel ratio and the ECU makes adjustments to try to maintain stoichiometric perfection. Sensor #2 monitors the effectiveness of the cat, and tells you if you emit too much for the EPA's liking.
If you have 2 sensors one is pre-cat (sensor#1) and one is post cat (#2). Sensor #1 reads the air/fuel ratio and the ECU makes adjustments to try to maintain stoichiometric perfection. Sensor #2 monitors the effectiveness of the cat, and tells you if you emit too much for the EPA's liking.
02-17-2012, 05:56 AM
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I found the emissions sticker on the hood and it mentions "US emissions for 1989." So i think ihave will go with that and get an o2 for federal instead of California. If it dont work ill get one for California.
