qcabra

I'm not saying it's the case but the plugs could have gotten fouled by trying to start so many tmes. There are other things but it would be easier on the phone.
I hope it starts for you. DO you have spark to the plugs? TO the distributor? THere are a bunch of other things to check as well. If the timings correct,m are all the fuses good plus a bunch more.
Many people have said it won't start if the timings off just a bit. DO you have the front passenger side as the #1 plug? Bunch of things are possible. Give me a shout if it doesn't work or while you're looking at it.

buckz6319

looks like mine is off a bit...LOL.......but it points to where the #1 spark plug wire connects into the distributor

betelnut

Have you verified that you do indeed have spark? No spark and it doesn't matter how your distributor is oriented.

k808soljah

I have a good spark going to the distributor, as I found through holding the cap as my friend decided to crank the starter (very scary, there was a good amount of electricity flowing through my arm into my chest, lol). And the plugs have spark as well. I called qcabra and he was able to help a lot. We got the truck to start by disconnecting the MAF sensor. It'll run for a good 10 seconds before dying, so something's up with the sensor. I know of someone parting out their truck so I can get a new sensor if need be, but does anyone know about this type of thing? Thanks

buckz6319

what is a MAF?...i'm no expert but......I know that the 3vze uses a VAFM(Volume Air Flow Meter)it also has a contact in side the housing for the fuel pump(when the engine cranks there is air that is drawn into the meter by vacuum of the engine,and that vacuum opens the measuring plate of that meter thus turning on the fuel pump, so if it(VAFM) is unplugged the fuel pump will not work, and it will start and run for only a few seconds and the amount of air coming in can't be metered, so it wont run vary long either.... there is a testing procedure on that, in the FSM...http://www.ncttora.com/fsm/1990-1995...e/volumeai.pdf

k808soljah

Yeah I meant VAFM, and I forgot to mention that we jumped the fuel pump w/the paper clip trick as well. So we had the VAFM unplugged and the fuel pump jumped and it started.

Thanks for the link!

k808soljah

Just remembered that it also started without jumping the fuel pump.

qcabra

Hi,
its probably a good idea to use paper clip in DIAG port to see if there are engine error codes. I forgot which ones to jump but it's on the forum somewhere.

k808soljah

With the VAF unplugged, the truck starts and runs for about 10 seconds before dying. So I can conclude that the fuel pump is good and the timing is good, and my problem is just at the VAF, correct?

The reason why I ask is because I'd like to start putting things back on (fan, radiator, etc.)

abecedarian

It runs for 10 seconds without the VAFM connected?
That sounds a little odd, actually. I'd only expect 2-4 seconds of run time before the fuel pressure drops and the engine dies.

k808soljah

I'll get out there in the morning and actually time it. I might just be getting a little exited and counting fast lol

buckz6319

Abe, please correct me if I'm incorrect
just a note.....
the ps pulley on the crank has the notch for the timing (on the 3vze) and that notch is lined up on the "0" on the #1 timing belt cover, the engine is at TDC on the compression stroke always.(non interference motors I think)..... loosen up the spark plug of the #1 cylinder just leave a few threads in and rotate the crank clock wise and listen for the compressed air coming out every time the notch gets to "0" on the timing belt cover.

The rotor tip should be pointing straight up at TDC, but if you have messed with the timing at all, like I did the housing will move thus causing the rotor tip to look like it is not pointing to the #1

NOBR8KSS

Poor choice of words on my part...out of "time" or not correctly timed. I was trying to point out that his distributor may be directing spark to the cylinder on the exhaust stroke rather than the compression stroke. Already addressed, though.

k808soljah

The truck starts and runs consistently for 7 seconds before dying. That's without the VAFM plugged in.

k808soljah

Is there anything in specific that I should be looking for when I open the airbox and take a look at the VAFM? I understand that it should be super clean, but I'm not sure what it's really supposed to look like or how to tell if it's faulty..

Anyway, I'm gonna be picking up a new airbox and intake tube tomorrow from a friend who's parting his truck out, so I'll stick that in and see how it works.

buckz6319

try this link...http://www.ncttora.com/fsm/1990-1995...e/troubles.pdf

k808soljah

Thanks for the link buckz, it'll definitely come in handy in the future as well.

I got the other VAFM and intake tube and put em in. Same thing as before !!!!! Truck won't start unless I unplug the sensor. What is wrong??! I'm thinking COR, but I really don't know where to turn next.

k808soljah

Or maybe it was another fouled VAF?

Hefhef

Did this ever get resolved? I'm having same issue...