jay4runner

I have started a replacement of my timing cover/chain and related items on my 1990 4Runner 22RE (manual). I have had the problem with broken chain guides that lead to chain eating inside of timing cover and then oil/water mixing. Anyways, I am not a seasoned mechanic (usually do the basics - oil, brakes etc) but can definitely follow instructions to make this repair. I have started the project by following the instructions noted at 4crawler (https://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTr...ingChain.shtml). I am at the point of removing the distributor (step 7) and I just want to make sure I have things right before I move forward (I guess I am a little stressed about getting distributor back in right position and timing correct etc). Anyways, the instruction says to put the engine at TDC before removing distributor (at this step 7). However, it describes a different way of getting to TDC than does the instruction later in the instruction (eg. step 19 which says to set crank at "0" mark and step 59 which says something different again using the "5" mark). So, I am just a little confused. Should I be setting TDC with the same method at each of these steps (step 7, 19 and 59)? And, if so, which method should I use? I had thought I would use the marking on the crank method but then assumed that perhaps I should be always using the "5" mark because I have 22RE? Most of the videos I have seen suggest using the "0" mark.

If someone can explain this to me I would be extremely grateful. Thank you in advance!

Also, I am not intending to replace head gasket as part of this repair. Maybe I should consider but I believe it is ok. I suppose I could replace later if needed. I will endeavour to replace oil pan gasket which I understand can be painful.

87-4runner

0 MARK on the timing cover is TDC
stabbing the dizzy back in place isn't hard, so don't stress.
When on TDC if, you remove the dizzy cap you'll find the rotor pointing to about 11o clockish... you can mark it if you'd like so you'll be close when you put it back.
They say to do the timing chain and guides you should remove the head.
(I didn't and others haven't as well)
but if you do be sure to get a good quality head gasket and new bolts.
the old head bolts can be a tough job
to get out... they're supposed to be a one time use only, but again others have reused them and had good sucess.
LCE has a good video for putting on the timing chain, guides, and tensioner.
they have a nice kit as well...
NO gasket on the oil pan use toyota FIPG get it from the stealership for about $20... you can drop the diff down to get the pan out.
There is a " hidden bolt" under the cam gear in that little pool of oil DON'T FORGET TO TAKE IT OUT!
the hardest part of this job is getting the crank bolt broke.... you can put a socket on it and an extension the right length to have it rest against the frame, then bump the starter ( with the coil wire off) to get it to break...
here's your torque specs


Watch "LCE 22R/RE Timing Chain and Cam Gear Installation Tips" on YouTube

jay4runner

Thanks for the tips! I think I have come across that LCE video - but will watch it again and also check their kits. I was looking at a kit (OSK - which I assume is good) from Yotashop. But that is just chain, guides and tensioner. Still need cover and the pumps. Glad to hear I'm not the only one that is doing this without doing head gasket. If I understand it correctly the overlapping work (ie. things I would have to redo from this repair in order to do the head gasket at a later date) is the valve cover which is no big deal. I did hear about that hidden bolt. And yesterday I did get that crank bolt loose - wrapped a belt around it and then strapped the belt to the frame. I'm assuming that i would do the oil pan drop and FIPG replacement after I get the new timing cover intstalled. Thanks again.

87-4runner

Nope... drop the oil pan when you do the timing cover, then put it on after you get the timing cover back on...
the key is CLEAN ... NO OIL RESIDUE
clean inside the block with carb cleaner so nothing is running down before you put on the pan.
Be VERY VERY careful to not munch your head gasket when your sliding the cover back in...
snug up the "hidden" bolt BEFORE you tighten the cover bolts or you'll crack the cover!!!
Put Ultra gray or black on the threads and shank of that bolt or it will leak.
also put some gasket sealant on the bolt that goes THRU the oil pump into the timing cover, put a dab on the inside of the cover over the end of that bolt hole.
Keep Track of where and what bolt you take out of the cover and put it back in the exact same hole.
take some gasket sealant and put on your thumb and finger, run the oil pump gasket thru your fingers coating the rubber oring type gasket with sealer, then put it in the groove so it will stay in place and help seal it up.
no need to load the pump it will pick up they oil in a couple of seconds.

87-4runner

FYI if you think your on TDC by the timing mark. But your rotor is pointing to 5oclock your180 degrees out and need to go around til the timing mark is on 0 and the rotor is at 11.

jay4runner

Thanks for the information - much appreciated! What I was wondering re the pan was - can i initially just remove the front two oil pan bolts so that I can do the timing cover removal and replacement and once that area is all done and covered back in then drop the pan and replace the gasket? You are giving me some other great info I was wondering about - in particular the head gasket that extends above timing cover. I saw one guy on a video actually cut that part of the head gasket out (saying it didn't do anything) - then he made a small 1" square gasket to go where that "hidden" bolt is. Didn't seem right to me - why not just leave/use that front part of the head gasket. So assuming I leave the piece of head gasket to go above the timing cover do you suggest putting FIGP on it (perhaps some on both sides)? Or is it true that the head gasket in that area is more for spacing than it is for sealing anything? I was planning to get that FIGP as you suggest and I assume is ok to use that on all the relevant areas - the "hidden" bolt, the oil pump bolt, the oil pan as well as oil pump o-ring as you suggest. A couple other questions - when you say clean inside the block with carb cleaner you mean to spray up from under the oil pan into the block area while you have the pan off? Also, can I ask why the cover would crack if you don't put that "hidden" bolt in first?

JJ'89

I did mine without removing the head or the pan. I used the link to 4Crawler you included above and another one I can't recall for info. Anyway, my cover was deeply grooved but not through to water. Pieces of old chain guide are down in the pan. Before I pulled the distributor out, I made some witness marks so the ignition timing would be "close" after re-assemby. It started right up and has been running fine 40,000 miles later, without putting a timing light on it.. You do have to be very careful not to damage the head gasket or pan gasket. I used Permatex Ultragrey. Don't overdo it. You don't want any little pieces of ultragrey getting loose and plugging oil passages. Be careful removing the harmonic damper. Use the right tool, I had to replace mine on account of a vibration after reassembled startup and test ride. I got some parts from rockauto, some from Engine Builder (no longer in business, I believe) and the dealer. If I was doing it again, I think I'd shell out for all genuine Toyota parts. Worst part of the job was disassembling and cleaning up. Scraping gaskets, etc.etc.
edit: I didn't cut any part of the head gasket off. About the front two screws..the cover I got from EngineBuilder had the holesslightly not aligned, so I couldn't get the screws back in. I guessed that it would still seal and not leak. I was right. I still have the screws to use next time or for any new owner if I pass it or have to do it again.

millball

Why would the cover crack??? Because if the cover is immobilised by tightening all the horizontal bolts first, the cover is not able to move upward any
to conform to the front portion of the headgasket/head/timing cover sealing surface.

The stress that might crack the cover is multiplied if the front portion of the headgasket has lost any material when the cover was separated from it on removal.

You have been given good advice about the cover tightening sequence.

Even better advice would be to remove the head and replace the headgasket while replacing the timing cover and timing components.

jay4runner

Thank you for the info. Yes, I can see my cover is deeply grooved when I look down after removing the valve cover (timing cover is still in place). I am assuming that is the root of the problem and why coolant all of a sudden and in great amounts got into the oil. did you do anything special with the head gasket piece above the timing cover - is this where you put permatex? Harmonic damper - hmmm... I don't recall seeing that in the instructions - I better have another look. Yes Rockauto is quite good and most reasonable when shipping to Canada. Unfortunately, Engine Builder (as you say) is no longer around. I was going to use that OSK brand for the chain, tensioner and gears (available from Yotashop). I saw that Rockauto has the Aisin oil and water pumps for a great price. Then for the cover I can't decide. OSK doesn't make one. Then there is Aisin which is like $150 or a bunch of likely chinese made ones for about $50 or so. I may splurge and get the Aisin - I assume it would be best. Thanks again.

87-4runner

The reason I said the case will CRACK
is because I tightened and torqued all the other bolts first...
Didn't even get to 9ft lbs on hidden bolt before I heard a pop...I knew instantly what it was.
removing the head is totally optional... there are pros and cons. I'm not suggesting you do it either way, that's your choice.
good luck with your project.

snippits

EngineTech TC22R from RockAuto will work fine. Used one on my 92 pickup 22RE, and it's been installed going on four years...no leaks. You will still need the cover gasket and seal.

Recommend you use Genuine Toyota 90311-45014 Type-T Timing Cover Oil Seal especially if your balancer has grooves in it. Drive the seal all the way home.



Harmonic balancer might come right off. If you do have to use a puller, make sure not to run the puller bolts too far in.

JJ'89

If an Aisin part is available and you don't want to spring for genuine Toyota, I'd prefer Aisin over some other brand X. Aside from the timing set, I have not had occasion to do much on my '89 besides change oil and a couple of batteries. I used an Aisin water pump and brake master cylinder. They seem like very high quality by the looks of them.

jay4runner

Yes, I have debated about the HG. I stress about taking all that stuff off the side of the head (and breaking those exhaust bolts!)

jay4runner

Oh, I didn't realize there was another seal I needed. Better add that to the list. Perhaps some of the covers come with gasket and seal (I see the Engine Tech and ITM brands specifically say they do not). I like the idea of getting genuine toyota for an important part.

snippits

FEL-PRO TCS45685 timing cover gasket kit at RockAuto for $1.56. Comes with timing cover gasket and seal plus extras.

jay4runner

Thanks! So inexpensive

JJ'89

I would stress about that too. I was reluctant to disturb the head gasket and pan gasket because I knew that the engine had never been overheated, thus the head was not warped. And I knew that the engine had never been disassembled. I reasoned that nobody is going to get a better Toyota cylinder head or oil pan installation than the Toyota factory in Japan. I'm also lazy. For me personally, the odds for or against leaving the head and pan in place, and the pieces of plastic in the pan, were in favor of leaving. Just my take on it, and my $0.02

87-4runner

For me, it was one of those jobs that the thought of it, was really worse than the actually doing it. It's not that bad once you've done it. It's just nerve wracking doing it for the first time.
take your time and you'll be fine.

anndel

I got Aisin Water pump and oil pump for my 93 Yota from RockAuto. 22RE performance sells them as well and I believe they're Japan-made vs. those from RockAuto which are US-Made Aisin. 22RE Performance also has a video tip on reinserting the distributor. The entire job took me 4 hours, just take it slow and organize parts, fasteners, etc., in order of removal so less confusing when reinstalling them.

snippits

This is how I kept the 22 RE timing cover bolts organized.

Had a box that was bigger than the new timing cover. Flipped the box over, and then traced the new timing cover pattern on the box plus marked the bolt holes too. Punched the marked holes. One by one as the timing cover bolts were uninstalled, I would put them in the matching spot on the cardboard box.