subarubie

I went with the PL20195 because I was afraid of using the PL30001 due to the bypass PSI being lower..........Does anyone know for sure if the PL30001 is ok to use. It has a bypass of 8-16PSI and the PL10241 & PL20195 have 12-15PSI.

I guess if it is ok to use the lower Bypass PSI I will just start using the PL30001 on my next oil change....

shepherd2111

Does anyone know the thread pitch on a 4.7 I Force v8 oil filter tube, or has anyone ever seen an oil filter relocation kit for one ? I'm just tired of dropping the skid pan every time i change oil.

sb5walker

The bypass valve is only there to serve as a safety backup in case of the filter media clogging. So if the media clogs, oil can still pass through the filter and lubricate the motor. Under normal conditions, the bypass valve doesn't open.

I think it's possible that if too-thick or mineral oil is used in very low winter temps, and the oil becomes very thick, it may squeeze past the bypass valve when the motor first starts up because the oil is too thick to go through the filter media. But aside from that, the bypass valve should never open. It only opens if the media clogs, and that would only happen with a poor choice of oil filter. As mentioned in several posts upthread, aftermarket filters in the standard size, which is tiny, have (in my opinion) WAY too little media surface area: 104-107 sq in vs the small size Toyota filter (D1) which has 160 sq in.

It wouldn't take much to clog a filter with so little media area. I would bet good money that many of the aftermarket filters in that small size are bypassing by the end of their service life, which of course is bad since bypassing oil not only isn't getting filtered, but it will wash many of the previously filtered particles right back into the engine.

A special case was the Amsoil EaO filters, which not only clogged, but also the bypass valve failed to work and therefore the filter totally blocked oil flow and the oil light came on in many Toyota engines:

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...l#post51265890

So long as you have a filter that has enough filter media area, it will never clog, so it doesn't matter if the bypass valve spec is a lower psi. The PL300001 has SO MUCH media area (400 sq in!), there is no way that thing will clog unless something VERY strange and bad is going on in the motor. So the lower bypass spec is irrelevant. The fact is, that filter will have higher flow than probably any other filter you could fit on the motor, and the PureONEs have terrific efficiency, filtering many more and smaller particles than anything else on the market. So long as you prefill it, and you have a 22RE (won't fit on the 3VZE), I'd say go for it.

If you don't want the hassle of prefilling, I've found the PL20195 to be a great filter on my veezy. I recently changed oil and filter without prefilling the filter, and watched my oil pressure gauge to see how long it took for oil pressure to come up after starting. It was only three seconds, which is almost exactly the same as for the Toyota compact size 90915-YZZD1 when empty. So, no need to prefill the 20195, imo. Oil pressure of course comes up almost immediately now that the filter is filled with oil.

cr@ves4wheelin

My trucks used Fram for years even after it was passed on to me, I've never heard anything bad about it til now. Read those links too. When I go home for spring break, I'll buy a toyota oil filter and see how that goes.

sb5walker

My oil is very noticeably cleaner with the PureONEs than it ever was with the Toyota filters. My current impression of those is that they flow great, but filter, not so much.

RustBucket

iTrader: (1)

Since the filter is at a downward incline on the 22re, I filled the filter completely with oil to soak the media, then dumped the excess back into the bottle. It soaked up about 3/4 qt.

8lugnuts

Man! I can't believe this thread is still living and breathing! Thanks for all of posts guys.

sb5walker, thank you for the posts, super informative, I appreciate the knowledge. I am using the M1-M209 currently on my T's 3.4L 5VZ-FE but if your information on the PureOnes is accurate I will switch to them. I use the PureOnes on my 22yr old Jeep, but that motor gets high-mileage conventional oil, my T gets only Mobil1 fully synthetic(also high mileage formula). Below are pics I took of the two Mobil1 filters for my T, the orig. one recommended (M1-102 small) and the M1-209(tall)




Diablo, I have no knowledge of different PSI ratings for the check valves in different oil filters but I did not think these made a difference. Based on other posts here and in other threads I am pretty sure this is true.

mongo161, your experience is the same as mine. Long ago I raced my little Shelby Dodge CSX and my Dodge Omni GLHS in the amateur divisions of SCCA (Solo 1 & 2). My friends and I all had Shelbys and we did little things to improve the performance, like using synthetic oil, *and* using larger oil filters used in V8 motors, like the 318, 360, and other V8 Mopars on our little turbo charged 2.2L and 2.5L motors. These were not taller filters, just wider, allowing us to add an extra 1/2-3/4 quart of oil as well as increase the surface area of the filter(which we believed allowed a litlte better cooling of the oil). We learned this and other cheap tricks from other, more experienced racers, plus ours were HIPO motors and we would redline the snot out of them, so oil pressure issues were not a consideration. I never thought of using a larger filter on my stock motors.

Besides moving the oil filter off the receiver with an extension kit and/or adding a 2nd filter and bolting it to fender well or firewall, this was the cheapest solution we could think of to help with the oil cooling.

RustBucket - I never thought about pre-filling a filter before installing, does this really make much of a difference? Anyone?

8lugnuts

RustBucket

iTrader: (1)

It's probably not a huge deal whether or not a filter is prefilled. You figure when it's put on dry, you have to wait for the oil pump to supply the volume of the filter before any oil actually circulates through the engine. Whether this takes 0.1 seconds or 10 seconds I don't know.

Many Toyotas

I ran only the Napa Gold 1515 Filters on all of my 20r,22r,22res, one thing i did not see mentioned is the anti drain back valve, keeps some oil in the filter for cold starts !!! If the filter is mounted straight up and down this does not matter, but it does for the Toys !!! Ever had one that rattled for a few moments on a cold start ???

8lugnuts

I have noticed that as my T is getting older it sounds a little more like a diesel on cold startups for the first few seconds, especially during the cold weather months. I suppose it would be a little worse if I was not running synthetic in it.

The oil filter on my engine looks to be at about a 45˚ angle.

8lugs

SR25JD

I Have Been Running a Fram Guard TG8A in my 85 For Years ,Just Wanted To Know If Anyone Has The Cross # For A Toyota Brand Filter ?

daved5150

iTrader: (1)

Hey, sb5walker, #1 thanks for the info on filters. I used to think the K&N's and Mobil 1's were the best filters and used them only on my 22re. I used to use the taller Mobil 1 m1-209 as 8lugnuts said and the k&n HP2009. I now have a change of heart after seeing this thread and the specs on the PureOne's.

#2 Have you seen the new PureOne synthetic media filters? They are purple instead of yellow. Here's the link:

http://www.purolatorautofilters.net/...ilFilters.aspx

I saw them at Advance Auto. They are 2 bucks more at $9.99 I believe. I'll have to double check that.

#3 Thanks for the info on the PL30001. When I was at Advance, I had the K&N hp1002 and the PL30001 end to end, and there is really no difference between them as far as the mounting surface and gasket. That thing is huge! THAT is the filter I am now going to be using from now on. I am going to get a remote mount for the oil filter so I can prefill the filter when I change the oil. I'll let you guys know how I make out and post pix when I do it. I've always been a fan of OVERKILL.

Great thread here.

Dingotech

And then there's always (if you own a 3vze) dual filter conversion:

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...talled-215913/

daved5150

iTrader: (1)

I just changed my oil in the 4Runner and I used the new synthetic media filter from Purolator, the longer PSL20195. I have been using the longer filters from K & N and Mobil for awhile now. I also bought a PL30001 and put it on to try it...like a glove. I use a Filtermag on my filters and since I didn't have one to fit the 30001, I went with the 20195. I took pictures but I'm having a hard time getting them off my card. As soon as I download them, I will post them...

daved5150

iTrader: (1)

Here is the pics of the PSL20195 and the PL30001 side by each. The gasket surface is just about dead on. The third pic is the 30001 installed loosely on the block for the picture before I took it off and put the 20195 on because I had the Filtermag for that size.

daved5150

iTrader: (1)

Today I was in Advance Auto visiting a friend of mine who works there. They have the Purolator PureOnes listed as a better option for filtering oil and then have the Bosch's as the best option for filters. We had a PureOne PL30001 and Bosch D3500 side by side as they are the same filter with 3/4 16 thread. We both thought the Bosch was the beefier filter...just felt heavier. They had diagrams of the Purolators and the Boschs apart and the Bosch looks like it is built better. Any thoughts and/or opinions? Any one have any information on the Bosch's?

BMcEL

Good read:

http://minimopar.knizefamily.net/oil...reference.html

daved5150

iTrader: (1)

Thanks for the link, brother...lot of info there. I would just love if someone would do a test like that on not only how well the filter works but also how well the oil flows through it....