quacker6

sounds like a classic clogged fuel filter to me.

rdharper

Have you checked your TPS, and AFM? Either can cause symptoms like that.
Symptoms are only at idle? Pull your TPS connector and see if it performs the same. If so, its not the TPS. You will throw a code, but if the TPS is not working, you should see the symptoms go away while disconnected.

To check the AFM takes a bit more work.

How is acceleration after the initial hesitation?

How is acceleration above 3k?

Lifelongtoy

fuel filter is pretty new.

It will only die at ide, but the stumbling/hesitating during acceleration is constant.
Acceleration really does not improve, its the same all the way up to 70, BAD.
So disconnect the TPS and check for change?

rdharper

Correct. If the symptoms are the same, problem is not the TPS. Ignore the code for the check. I've not seem a TPS fail that way, but its an easy check. For the AFM, follow the directions in the FSM. Its an expensive part, so hopefully that is not the problem. They do go bad, but apparently at fairly high mileage, based on my experience.

MudHippy

Check for vacuum line leaks, I got two hoses crossed once ,ran like your talkin'. To rule out EGR suck on the hose at the top while at idle, it should bog down,even more , but I'm tellin' ya if it's even a little open(sticking) it'll be difficult or IMPOSSIBLE to even keep it idling. Don't stress out man, we're here for ya

4runnerx3

The clicking at the ecu sounds like a low voltage problem.

Lifelongtoy

Low voltage where? Could that be related to the bad acceleration and dying at idle?

Lifelongtoy

Where is the AFM on the 22re? Is it also known as an air flow sensor?

rdharper

The black box with the connector on it, just after the air intake.

Silicon_70

Sounds like the problem I had not too long ago. Do you have an FSM? If not lemme look at mine and get back to you. Its late and I'm afraid of typing the wrong thing and cuase you more grief.

Lifelongtoy

yeah I have a factory service manual, and a Haynes, and a couple of friends willing to stand there and drink beer and watch me get pissed off.
Why, you know something good?

Silicon_70

How's the timing? How's the fuel filter? How's the TPS? ECT?
Is this only occuring once when it reaches operating temp.

Here was the thread I had not too long ago.

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116/stumbling-hesitating-when-reaches-operating-temp-egr-valve-103517/

Lifelongtoy

stumbling occurs right at start up and doesnt quit. Dont know condition of TPS, unplugged it but didnt feel any change.

Silicon_70

Do you know the last time you replaced the fuel filter? I've heard of numerous people having the same problem at idling shortly after startup.

Lifelongtoy

I probably changed it 5-10,000 mile ago. Would that cause an immediate change from perfect to crappy? Thats what happened, I was driving and all the sudden it started running like crap, split/second change.

MudHippy

EGR , I'll keep sayin' it, 'till you tell me ya checked it. Jus' tryin' ta help. Another thought on makin' sure it isn't that would be to by-pass the unit altogether. Disconnect at plenum and stick a cork in the hole, if this immediately solves your problem IT'S THE EGR! TRUST ME ON THIS!

Lifelongtoy

first thing in the mourning, ill check it. Curious though, how would the EGR cause my problem?

Silicon_70

But he says it occurs immediately on startup. It would be the EGR if the truck has already reached operating temp and then started to stumble. Ask me how I know this?

Its beginning to sound more and more like a fuel delivery problem. Which then you'd have to check fuel pump and fuel pressure regulator. The FPR test is easy, there's two ports in the diagnostic terminal you short and you should be able to hear a hissing sound coming from the FPR(all this is mentioned in the FSM)

Let us know what you find on testing the EGR.

thook

Hmmm....my 3.0 was doing the same thing. It ran fairly well while driving, but would die at an idle before or after reaching operating temp. I replaced the engine coolant temperature sensor and it stopped doing it. I even had more power after that. Oh, and the clicking noise went away, too.

LS1Steve

have you done the obvious? check cap/rotor/plugs?? Try some redline fuel system cleaner in a 1/4 tank of gas, maybe pull the air intake away from the throttle body and spray some cleaner in there.

I've done all of the above and its helped a bit, but when cold it will idle fine but for the first minute or so if I don't rev past 3500 to get going it will almost die, even when i put the clutch in it takes a sec to recover and get back to idle. I have never had a check engine light. Very interested in what you find!