Stuck at the shop, no start!!
#101
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It does, it's a Vantage graphing meter. I just didn't know what the noids really did. Seems like they give a definitive go or no-go when you plug them in which is nice too.
#102
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The wire colors I gave you were for a V6; that's the schematic I have. But it looks like you've figured out the colors.
If you've got any sort of Snap-On analysis meter, you've got, oh, 2-grand more equipment than the rest of us. So do whatever you need to do to figure out how to use it; it will make your job so much easier.
I know very little about actual Snap-On tools, but I'm guessing you have a scope that will display the voltage waveform across the injector. A little interpretation will tell you a whole lot about the injector (a 100 times what a noid light could). I suspect that it can not only tell you that voltage is there, but whether the injector has an open or short, and probably whether it is opening or stuck (by measuring inductive "kick").
And keep going; that tool will also analyze waveforms on each plug, telling you whether the plug is getting power, whether it is firing, and how well. (It will probably tell you if your points are worn out, but nobody has had points since the 70s).
#103
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It is a pretty nice tool but it won't do everything. I only just acquired it, it's on loan from my brother who is an ASE mechanic (so HE'S the one w/ 2k invested in stuff!). You are right though, I'm gonna dig into it and see what it can do. It found my faulty o2 sensor super quick.
As far as the colors go I just looked at the injector harness. ...and yeah, that schematic was for a v6. I must have said something to make people think 3vze. I'm a 22RE owner. I'll keep pluggin' Tuesday or so, gonna be busy tomorrow.
As far as the colors go I just looked at the injector harness. ...and yeah, that schematic was for a v6. I must have said something to make people think 3vze. I'm a 22RE owner. I'll keep pluggin' Tuesday or so, gonna be busy tomorrow.
#104
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Hey, in case anyone was following my embarrassing little saga, I fixed it! Loose ground on the intake was the issue. Runs better than ever now. I'm kicking myself, I checked my grounds over and over, must have missed this one every time
#107
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Dude, NEVER apologize... it's not like you missed it on purpose......EVEN THOUGH IT WAS MENTIONED!!!! hahaha, jk, jk... I mean it, and I'm STOKED for ya, man! Telling ya, Drew... for those of us who've had LONG lasting gremlins on these fairly problem free motors... It's AWESOME to see someone figure it out, and even more promising when it's something SO SIMPLE.....whether brought on by oversight or not
Enjoy!
Heck, I'ma recheck all my grounds for the heck of it now while I'm out there next time, too! Can't wait to find mine... But alas, as things have gone, looks as if I might have to for a lil longer! hahaha.
WOOT!
Enjoy!
Heck, I'ma recheck all my grounds for the heck of it now while I'm out there next time, too! Can't wait to find mine... But alas, as things have gone, looks as if I might have to for a lil longer! hahaha.
WOOT!
#109
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Thanks, here's the way I see it: this ground (pic taken during my engine build last winter) was never put back on correctly by me.
It WAS however grounding to something. It was obviously touching the intake or engine or something allowing the truck to run.
When I took it to the shop they put it on a lift and bumped it, hit it, did something to it to cause the loose wire to fall off. Hey, crap happens. So in the end it was my dumb ass fault for improper assembly even though the problem did occur due to their action (though it was no negligence on their part at all).
Happy ending indeed, finally!!
It WAS however grounding to something. It was obviously touching the intake or engine or something allowing the truck to run.
When I took it to the shop they put it on a lift and bumped it, hit it, did something to it to cause the loose wire to fall off. Hey, crap happens. So in the end it was my dumb ass fault for improper assembly even though the problem did occur due to their action (though it was no negligence on their part at all).
Happy ending indeed, finally!!
#110
Very helpful! So we ended up replacing the fuel pump, fuel filter and the fuel line that comes directly from the tank. But now it still wont start. the pump now works so we are fairly certain it is an electrical issue also now. So we are going to have to probably tow it into a shop. but i still have a question, would my truck have a low oil sensor or shut off? because when it shuts off it shows a/c and the oil light come on so we now are questioning if that could be shutting the truck off since we did lose a lot of fluids replacing other parts, though it has fluids now.
#111
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I don't remember off hand if my truck's oil light comes on when I shut the engine off but it does on my Honda. I think that's normal.
First off it's real easy to make sure your fluids are up so I would confirm that. I've never heard of these trucks having a shutoff if your oil gets too low (engines have a good way off shutting themselves off with no oil in them! ). If it is electrical there is a lot of good info here to track it down but in my case it was simpler than all that. Always remember to check the easy stuff like grounds! Making sure I did that correctly the first time would have saved me some time
First off it's real easy to make sure your fluids are up so I would confirm that. I've never heard of these trucks having a shutoff if your oil gets too low (engines have a good way off shutting themselves off with no oil in them! ). If it is electrical there is a lot of good info here to track it down but in my case it was simpler than all that. Always remember to check the easy stuff like grounds! Making sure I did that correctly the first time would have saved me some time
#112
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iTrader: (5)
Don't believe you have an Oil Sender/Shut off Sensor..... .My 2003 CRV does.... You get too low on oil, .... 'POW', no powa! lol.
I believe the Charge, Oil, Brake!(if e-brake is actually on, lol) and Check Engine light should be on with key in ON position(maybe a couple more, don't think so)... Once hitting the STA position, no mo CEL.... and the others should go off as well, very quickly.
I believe the Charge, Oil, Brake!(if e-brake is actually on, lol) and Check Engine light should be on with key in ON position(maybe a couple more, don't think so)... Once hitting the STA position, no mo CEL.... and the others should go off as well, very quickly.
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