Stuck at the shop, no start!!
07-10-2012, 02:59 PM
#21
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Thread Starter
The wiring harness should run along the frame to the top of the tank and plug into the fuel pump.
Considering all the late model vehicles with all the electronics that they have that have exhaust work done on them with no problems, I think that what has happened to your truck is just a coincidence.
Keep checking and let us know what you find.
Considering all the late model vehicles with all the electronics that they have that have exhaust work done on them with no problems, I think that what has happened to your truck is just a coincidence.
Keep checking and let us know what you find.
Which terminals do I check? I checked all three in every combination w/ the ign on and got 0 volts. I'm home alone now so I can try later w/ a helper to see what it says while it's cranking.
07-10-2012, 03:13 PM
#22
Registered User
I don`t know which wires to test. There are factory service manuals here that you can down load that will tell you how to test things.
I don`t know that your fuel pump is bad, but ive seen vehicles that were running perfectly and then just wouldn`t start because the fuel had died.
Try this - remove the intake hose from the throttle body, spray some carb cleaner or starting fluid into the intake, slip the intake hose back on and try and start it. If it try`s to start then you know its a fuel problem.
I don`t know that your fuel pump is bad, but ive seen vehicles that were running perfectly and then just wouldn`t start because the fuel had died.
Try this - remove the intake hose from the throttle body, spray some carb cleaner or starting fluid into the intake, slip the intake hose back on and try and start it. If it try`s to start then you know its a fuel problem.
07-10-2012, 03:39 PM
#24
http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTri...shtml#FuelPump
Maybe? Not SURE on yours.. But most of the fuel pump test jump procedures, COR related stuff's is there........ It's helped me one time....
Also, when my rig lost 'gogo' power.... It was due to the COR. Got leakage in the windshield dripping down into the COR and where it plugs in... and it COMPLETELY corroded the thing inside(there are pics on here of how jacked up they can get... and how common the 'h2O leaking into it' phenomenon is). It would turn off and then not start again when hot. Your situation sounds different... But between the MAF/AFM and COR, then the STA in the ignition kicking on the COR.... things can go awry. My fuel pump connector is at the rear/outside of the tank, easily visible from the rear passenger wheel well. Looks like you might have found it in that pic... But you'd need someone turning the key to start and then at least til it wants to turn over to read voltage there(Which you should be able to do right from the Diag. port, I believe?). With it bypassed, at the diagnostic port next to the fusible link box... FP-B+(???..whatever it is in that thread/tutorial of 4crawlers) you can jump that, then just listen for the pump going into action. From the STA kicking on the COR, I believe the AFM/MAF takes over from there. when the Vane opens the Fuel Pump kicks on(at least on mine, with the key on, I can open that vane in the Air Flow Meter and hear the pump kicking on.)
On my fuel pump connectors, above/back/toward passenger side of the fuel tank... I can see the connector, as mentioned.. But might be different on your PU..... Also, my plugs/connectors are bright yellow... Also probably different on yours. I'm not sure on the 94 22RE if the exhaust is on the driver side(routed that way), ...but mine is... Lil more difficult for the shop to YOINK or broil the thing working on that side... At least in my 4runner's case/pertaining to where all the wiring to the fuelpump is..... But HEY, ANYTHING is possible.
Maybe? Not SURE on yours.. But most of the fuel pump test jump procedures, COR related stuff's is there........ It's helped me one time....
Also, when my rig lost 'gogo' power.... It was due to the COR. Got leakage in the windshield dripping down into the COR and where it plugs in... and it COMPLETELY corroded the thing inside(there are pics on here of how jacked up they can get... and how common the 'h2O leaking into it' phenomenon is). It would turn off and then not start again when hot. Your situation sounds different... But between the MAF/AFM and COR, then the STA in the ignition kicking on the COR.... things can go awry. My fuel pump connector is at the rear/outside of the tank, easily visible from the rear passenger wheel well. Looks like you might have found it in that pic... But you'd need someone turning the key to start and then at least til it wants to turn over to read voltage there(Which you should be able to do right from the Diag. port, I believe?). With it bypassed, at the diagnostic port next to the fusible link box... FP-B+(???..whatever it is in that thread/tutorial of 4crawlers) you can jump that, then just listen for the pump going into action. From the STA kicking on the COR, I believe the AFM/MAF takes over from there. when the Vane opens the Fuel Pump kicks on(at least on mine, with the key on, I can open that vane in the Air Flow Meter and hear the pump kicking on.)
On my fuel pump connectors, above/back/toward passenger side of the fuel tank... I can see the connector, as mentioned.. But might be different on your PU..... Also, my plugs/connectors are bright yellow... Also probably different on yours. I'm not sure on the 94 22RE if the exhaust is on the driver side(routed that way), ...but mine is... Lil more difficult for the shop to YOINK or broil the thing working on that side... At least in my 4runner's case/pertaining to where all the wiring to the fuelpump is..... But HEY, ANYTHING is possible.
Last edited by ChefYota4x4; 07-11-2012 at 09:32 PM.
07-10-2012, 03:49 PM
#25
Registered User
Chef
On our 4Runners the connections for the fuel pump are easy to get to through the wheel well, or through the access panel under the rear seat if needed. On the pick ups the bed sits almost right on top of the gas tank making it harder to get to.
On our 4Runners the connections for the fuel pump are easy to get to through the wheel well, or through the access panel under the rear seat if needed. On the pick ups the bed sits almost right on top of the gas tank making it harder to get to.
07-10-2012, 04:02 PM
#27
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Thread Starter
Chef... let's "pretend" I'm an idiot 
and I don't know what a STA is. What is it? Also how would I go about testing my EFI relay? (or removing it as far as that goes... it won't come out!!) From the outside it looks good, no signs of water in the box.
and I don't know what a STA is. What is it? Also how would I go about testing my EFI relay? (or removing it as far as that goes... it won't come out!!) From the outside it looks good, no signs of water in the box.
07-10-2012, 04:33 PM
#29
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Thread Starter
Well, mine didn't have a 10mm bolt but I got it off w a screwdriver, just had to push the pin back. Besides continuity testing, how do I see if this is good? It looks new.
07-10-2012, 05:06 PM
#30
Registered User
I have more experiance with the earlier trucks/4Runner (84-88), and all the COR relays are held in place with a 10mm bolt, so I learned something today
As for testing the relay I would have to look through the FSM to see how its done.
Did you try spraying some carb cleaner into the intake to see if the truck tries to start ?.
As for testing the relay I would have to look through the FSM to see how its done.
Did you try spraying some carb cleaner into the intake to see if the truck tries to start ?.
07-10-2012, 05:18 PM
#31
Registered User
Thread Starter
The truck certainly tries to start but I ran the battery down so it's charging now. I'll try some starter fluid tomorrow. I found some relay testing methods, a little crazy for my simple RShack multimeter so I may spring for the $2 relay! Maybe that's it...
07-10-2012, 05:39 PM
#32
Registered User
Im just recapping things here. Did you checked the ignition and EFI fuses (with a meter) ?. Did you test the AFM ?, if its bad it will keep the fuel pump from coming on.
Try holding the AFM flapper door open and have someone try and start it.
Try holding the AFM flapper door open and have someone try and start it.
07-10-2012, 06:32 PM
#35
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It can be a pain to get starting fluid in these trucks with the afm door. I would loosen the intake from the throttle body and open the throttle body while spraying. Put the tube on and crank it up.
07-10-2012, 06:38 PM
#36
Registered User
It is not hard at all, you either remove the intake tube from the throttle body and spray it in there, or even easier is to remove a vacuum hose from the upper intake and spray it in there and put the hose back on.
07-10-2012, 06:50 PM
#37
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Ok, there seems to be a lot of check this check that going on when he hasn't even verified that the fuel pump even works yet.
Page EG1-163 of the FSM clearly shows that Fp is a DIRECT connection to the fuel pump. If you jumped B+ and Fp and the fuel pump didn't start, you first need to verify that B+ is even there. It should be there if the key is in the IG position. If not, that is the start of your problem. If you have B+ and jumping Fp to B+ doesn't work, then either your fuel pump is bad or there is an open circuit in the wiring harness.
Page EG1-163 of the FSM clearly shows that Fp is a DIRECT connection to the fuel pump. If you jumped B+ and Fp and the fuel pump didn't start, you first need to verify that B+ is even there. It should be there if the key is in the IG position. If not, that is the start of your problem. If you have B+ and jumping Fp to B+ doesn't work, then either your fuel pump is bad or there is an open circuit in the wiring harness.
07-10-2012, 09:21 PM
#38
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Ok, there seems to be a lot of check this check that going on when he hasn't even verified that the fuel pump even works yet.
Page EG1-163 of the FSM clearly shows that Fp is a DIRECT connection to the fuel pump. If you jumped B+ and Fp and the fuel pump didn't start, you first need to verify that B+ is even there. It should be there if the key is in the IG position. If not, that is the start of your problem. If you have B+ and jumping Fp to B+ doesn't work, then either your fuel pump is bad or there is an open circuit in the wiring harness.
Page EG1-163 of the FSM clearly shows that Fp is a DIRECT connection to the fuel pump. If you jumped B+ and Fp and the fuel pump didn't start, you first need to verify that B+ is even there. It should be there if the key is in the IG position. If not, that is the start of your problem. If you have B+ and jumping Fp to B+ doesn't work, then either your fuel pump is bad or there is an open circuit in the wiring harness.
07-11-2012, 06:26 AM
#39
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Thread Starter
I see, sounds like chasing the relay could be a waste. I think myyota had the right plan on page 1, when I get home tonight I'm going to crank over the starter and see if I have power at the fuel pump wiring harness. I would have last night but my batt. died.
I'm guessing replacing the FP is easiest done by pulling the bed off right? I don't feel like dropping the tank.
I'm guessing replacing the FP is easiest done by pulling the bed off right? I don't feel like dropping the tank.
07-11-2012, 06:54 AM
#40
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Yea it is a pain either way but the bed is a little easier. You just need a buddy or two to get it off. Be very careful with the fuel pump bracket. This is the part with all the metal fuel lines coming out of the tank. Every one that I have touched has broke. If it is crusty just call the guy at toyotapart.com and get one. Have your vin ready.
