Outsane

whats in the rest of the boxes?

strykersd

You can if you put them on your credit card! I didn't do that, but the 4runner sure isn't helping my savings!


You'll just have to wait and see! I'll update this thread when I install the rest of the parts! Plus I have more on the way!

strykersd

Since the big Colorado Toyota Jamboree is coming up fast, I decided to pull my engine head and swap the 22re head and check out if I could find out why my truck was overheating. When I pulled my head, I didn't find anything too conclusive, but it appeared as if one spark plug and cylinder was slightly cleaner than the other three. I'm thinking maybe it was a slight head gasket leak.

My engine now consists of
-22rte stock block that was in my truck
-22re head that was recently resurfaced that I bought on Craigslist for $150
-22re ARP head studs I got off ebay for $135
-Felpro head gasket. I've heard horror stories about these, but I'm risking it!

Although I haven't done the math myself, I've heard that the obviously smaller combustion chambers on the 22re head bump the compression up from the stock 7.5:1 to 8.5:1. That should help with spool and power when I up the boost in a few weeks! On one downside I did notice that the exhaust housing on my turbo is cracked. When buying these turbo trucks, you come to expect that though. It's still in one piece, so I'll get to that in a few weeks.

Here's a picture of the ARP head studs installed

My only gripe with the ARP head studs on a 22re is that you cannot drop the engine head onto the block in the engine bay, the head hits the firewall. Plus the studs were hard enough getting in the block, I can't imagine trying to take them out after the heat some of the ones between exhaust ports will see. This probably means if I ever have to do another head gasket, that I'll need to pull the motor.


Total cost thus far $3493

strykersd

One other thing on my mind and what will be my next purchase for my 4runner are rock sliders. I've decided that I want to run sliders with a kick out for this build. I've narrowed it down between Addicted Offroad's sliders ( http://www.addictedoffroad.com/index...roducts_id=319 ) or All-Pro's sliders ( https://www.allprooffroad.com/84894r...nnerrockguards ). I prefer the look and the narrow profile of the kickout on the Addicted Offroad sliders, but also think that the kickout on the All Pro sliders would be nice for when I end up putting a roof rack on this 4runner and having to get to gear up top. What do you think? Any input is appreciated!

Either way I need to put my order in before Monday morning if I want to get them on before the Colorado Toyota Jamboree! I might also need to go tool shopping to install them. All I have is a 4.5" angle grinder and a welder. I could probably benefit from a grinding wheel for tubing and possibly a disc sander!

BoostedRNR

I'm not sure what piston's I have in mine, but I hope you can run more boost than I can. I don't have a rte block or head and I can only push 7-8lbs max without pinging. That's with my timing turned below stock specs too. You do a compression test before pulling the head?

Mandy Tuning

stryker i ran your same combo with an 268c cam,have a lot of torque this engine,right now 15psi with methanol injection.

abecedarian

Pull the radiator shroud and hoses, lift the engine a little with a jack and block of wood, remove the motor mounts, let the engine down.

dsal_86Yota

Having fun at the jamboree. Wish I was going but truck not done and its my anniversary weekend. What part of Colorado you in? Im in Florence, by canon city

Mandy Tuning

You should clean the threads or retap and lube,i thread mines with fingers

strykersd

Yeah I'm hoping I can run more boost than that! What octane gas are you running? Nope I didn't do a compression test before pulling the head. I have a compression tester, but was just too lazy. I wanted more power!

Did you dyno it before and after the cam? I'm curious the benefits of the cam since there aren't any cams made with the 22rte in mind.

Yeah that's what I'll have to do from now on. The sacrifices you have to make for performance!

I'm not in Colorado, I'm in San Diego, California! I've been considering moving to Denver or Portland, but have never been to Denver so I'm heading out there for a few days and checking out the city before going to the Jamboree that weekend. I have a lot of work to do on the truck before it's ready!

I tried! I ran the stock head bolts through the holes numerous times, tried grinding grooves in one of the stock bolts to clean out the threads and ran that through the holes too, plus a ton of WD-40, nothing seemed to clean out those threads! I didn't have a tap on hand so I treated the ARPs like a tap and ran it half a turn in, a quarter turn out, probably hundreds of times until they finally seated fully! I had probably half a dozen blisters on my hands from this, it sucked! If I have to pull them again, I'll probably go buy a tap and re-tap the holes.

Mandy Tuning

I dynoed but with the cam it got a complete rebuilt and engbldr head so i its nota fair comparison, but new engine gain 35hp+ and 75tq bi

Mandy Tuning

You can borrow a tread cleaner kit on autozone

Yopar

iTrader: (2)

There's also these sliders, lots of people like them, I still have to install mine:
http://4xinnovations.com/p-RS01A.html

Outsane

I got the 4x Innovations... comes with mounting plates and gussets...shipping was ridiculously fast.. 5 days...

I installed mine with the same tools you mentioned...


also trying to get a referal to save me $50... ha ha
4X Innovations has a referral program, so if any one else is going to buy some awesome sliders or something else

use 4X2290

So I can order a rear bumper soon!

BoostedRNR

I only run premium. Like I said tho, I might be running stock re pistons, I'm too lazy to do a compression test too. It still runs pretty dang good at those boost levels and with the 5 speed dropped in.

Bingle

Don't know if they're RET specific, but Lcengineering has a couple turbo specific cam grinds.

strykersd

I'll have to look into those! Thanks!

About the sliders, crap, I already ordered sliders from All-Pro! If I knew that I probably would have ordered them from 4x Innovations! Luckily All-Pro is having a 10% off sale at the moment, so I won't lose too much money over the 4x Innovation sliders. I guess I'll just chalk the extra cost up to the 2" main tube over a 1.75" main tube. Oh well, you live and you learn!

wickedclownca858

I love my all pro sliders with the kick outs. You will be stoked with them

strykersd

I just picked mine up and I'm pretty stoked about them too! To tell the truth I was leaning towards getting the Addicted Offroad sliders because they were 63" compared to All-Pro's 60" sliders, but I found out that Scotty discontinued his normal sliders and only sells the HD (and more expensive) version. I love that the All-Pro sliders come with legs welded on that are cut to the right size and angle to weld right onto my frame. The trail gear sliders I had on my last 4runner don't come with the legs attached to the sliders themselves. Which I guess is nice because you can pick the angle the slider sits at, but it was a ton more work! I had a shop install that set and the money I saved from buying Trail Gear's sliders was negated by the expensive installation cost.

strykersd

The last few days for me have been just eat, sleep, work, work on the 4runner. I'm trying to get as much done as possible before the Colorado TTORA Takeover!

I finally got around to wiring up my elocker and I'm loving the thing! I used the switch and wiring diagrams JWaldz posted ( https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f2/h...wiring-235219/ ). I installed my switch in the empty switch pocket to the left of my steering wheel.

One problem I encountered was that when you install the switch in that position, the switch pocket has a slight lip which didn't allow the switch to be activated. So after looking around my house for a while I came up with a solution, using tooth picks. I trimmed some toothpicks to fit and glued them to the sides of the switch and it worked!


After taking the 4runner out a few times on shakedown runs I realized that I needed a actual battery tie down. My 4runner came with a battery a few sizes too small that was just sitting in the engine bay. Every time I've taken the 4runner offloading my battery would slide into my AC condenser! On both of the first generation 4runner's I've owned, neither had their factory battery tie downs. Not sure why, maybe they rot away because of battery acid or something. Either way, I just decided to bite the bullet and buy a new battery from Autozone and a battery tie down and a J hook from the dealership for $31. Here's a shot of the engine bay with the new setup.


While I was at the dealership picking up the battery stuff, I also decided to buy a factory whip antenna for my 4runner. It came with a broken power antenna, which I could have replaced the mast for $50, but I just know I'll be offroading one day and forget to put it down and I'll snap it like I've done before. The whole kit from my local dealership cost me $60. $10 more expensive, but hopefully I'll never have to worry about it again!


I also picked up an All-Pro Offroad elocker guard. Although it sounds like it's next to impossible to hit the elocker's motor while offroading, the replacement cost of $600 for a new motor swayed me towards buying the guard. Plus All Pro is currently have a 10% off sale on them!


Before I'll go I'll leave you with a shot of my 4runner on one of the local shakedown runs I've taken it on in the last few days!




The cost of the 4runner is growing fast! Once I get back from Colorado, I'll probably take a break on buying parts for the 4runner for a while. Things adding to my parts list
-Elocker switch $19
-New battery and tie downs $152
-Factory whip antenna $60
-All-Pro Offroad elocker guard $63
Total cost thus far $3787