Strykersd's first gen 4runner build
10-12-2010, 08:48 PM
#21
Ever since I've installed my front locker I've had steering issues on tight trails. Since I'm normally in 4LO on the trail, I'd always have to go from 4LO, to 4HI, then over to 2WD. After seeing Trail Gear's summer sale for twin sticks for $100, I decided to bite the bullet and buy one along with there $20 rubber boot for it. When the package came in, I was stoked to find out that not only did they send me a 2.28 shift knob, they also included a 4.7 shift knob for if I ever re-gear my transfer case. Trail gear rocks!
To keep road noise and heat out of my cab, I had to make a few modifications to get the twin sticks to work. Firstly I had to cut the springy, raised part of the stock transfer case shifter boot off and also trim a little bit off the passenger side of the flat part of the boot/gasket. Here's a pic of what I had to trim
Then I mounted the trail gear boot and gasket to my stock boot's metal trim. It actually made me think a little. I couldn't just bolt it, since the bottom of the trim is flat against my transmission tunnel. Ideally I would like to use rivets, but since I didn't feel like spending the money on a rivet gun and rivets, I just used zip ties. I'll see how this holds up and if I have issues with it, I'll go out and get rivets.
And finally I installed the dual sticks in the truck only to find out that they sit further back then my stock shifter. Since I'm running a 2nd generation 4runner's center console, I had to trim out the rear window, rear wiper and window lock buttons off the center console.
I can't wait to get out to the trails and try them out!
To keep road noise and heat out of my cab, I had to make a few modifications to get the twin sticks to work. Firstly I had to cut the springy, raised part of the stock transfer case shifter boot off and also trim a little bit off the passenger side of the flat part of the boot/gasket. Here's a pic of what I had to trim
Then I mounted the trail gear boot and gasket to my stock boot's metal trim. It actually made me think a little. I couldn't just bolt it, since the bottom of the trim is flat against my transmission tunnel. Ideally I would like to use rivets, but since I didn't feel like spending the money on a rivet gun and rivets, I just used zip ties. I'll see how this holds up and if I have issues with it, I'll go out and get rivets.
And finally I installed the dual sticks in the truck only to find out that they sit further back then my stock shifter. Since I'm running a 2nd generation 4runner's center console, I had to trim out the rear window, rear wiper and window lock buttons off the center console.
I can't wait to get out to the trails and try them out!
Last edited by strykersd; 02-02-2011 at 07:50 PM.
10-17-2010, 10:22 PM
#26
Thanks! Eh you don't have much catching up to do, having your solid axle would surely help!
Thanks guys!
No I don't, but I'll try to snap some soon
No I don't, but I'll try to snap some soon
10-17-2010, 10:42 PM
#27
For the last few weeks I've been thinking about how to take my 4runner to the next level. The solution I came up with was to bump to up running 35s! The only problem was that lately I've been trying to start building a savings, so I had to do it on the cheap! While searching craigslist for a cheap set of 35s, I found a set of 35X12.5X15's on five lug aluminum wheels for $125. Two of which are BFG ATs and two of which are BFG MTs, but all have 50-60% tread. A few months back I picked up a free set of 15X8 steel wheels off craigslist with the motive to one day turn them into beadlocks. The only problem was that they were Chevy wheels, so the hub hole in the center of the wheel was too small for toyota hubs. Nothing a grinder and a sawzall can't fix!
Lucky for me I have a friend who owns a tire shop, so he mounted and balanced them for me for free! So after opening up the hub holes on the wheels and removing my 2" wheel spacers, I finally got the 35's on my 4runner!
Although I forgot to check the backspacing on my new wheels, the outside of the 12.5" tire gives my 4runner the exact width of my old 10.5" wheels with 2" wheel spacers.
Lucky for me I have a friend who owns a tire shop, so he mounted and balanced them for me for free! So after opening up the hub holes on the wheels and removing my 2" wheel spacers, I finally got the 35's on my 4runner!
Although I forgot to check the backspacing on my new wheels, the outside of the 12.5" tire gives my 4runner the exact width of my old 10.5" wheels with 2" wheel spacers.
Last edited by strykersd; 10-28-2010 at 12:17 AM.
10-28-2010, 12:51 AM
#28
For the longest time I've been putting off getting an IFS frame brace, but after a friend of mine bent his frame at the lower A-arm mounts while wheeling in Big Bear I knew I needed one soon. That and I'm always worried about my frame when I jump my 4runner 
In the last few weeks I've been going back and forth on whether to make my own IFS frame brace or to just buy one. The only company that currently makes them is SDORI and they're $130+shipping. I just couldn't justify spending that much on a pretty simple piece of steel. But then, while searching the forums I found a brand new SDORI brace so cheap that I couldn't turn it down!
After buying the brace I examined a few things about it. From seeing pictures of Sonoran Steel's old IFS braces, it appears that SDORI uses smaller tubing, but with the same wall thickness of 1/4". After playing with it for a while, I came to the realization that I would have been hard pressed to fit that much steel between my frame rails if I made my own brace. The SDORI brace weighs in at a hefty 12lbs.
The installation instructions on SDORI's website made the install seem pretty simple, but it was a different story for me. Remember when I said I've been putting off buying a IFS frame brace for the longest time? In that time I've BEAT on my lower A-arm mounts. To get the brace to fit I had to break out the torch and the BFH! After straightening a few things out, I then went back and flatten out a few of the welds from the factory so that the brace would fit over them. This only took a few seconds of hitting them with an angle grinder. Then came the hard part, getting the brace into place. After using my floor jack and a BFH, I was finally able to get the brace in. I'm just curious if I could ever get it out. Here's a picture of it in place
I haven't bolted or welded it in place yet because I haven't decide which I'm planning on going with. I'm not sure if I trust the 5/16 diameter bolts or thin steel of the lower A-arm mounts and I surely don't trust my welds alone (but they are getting better). I'm leaning towards both, since I doubt I'll ever be able to get it out if I wanted to. I also haven't welded it in place because I want to make sure I can still remove the bolt on my front differential mount (the one in the top right corner of the picture) while the brace is in place.
My only real complaint with the brace is that my differential sits on the brace itself. I guess I assumed that there would be a small gap. Oh well, I just hope it doesn't rattle.
In the last few weeks I've been going back and forth on whether to make my own IFS frame brace or to just buy one. The only company that currently makes them is SDORI and they're $130+shipping. I just couldn't justify spending that much on a pretty simple piece of steel. But then, while searching the forums I found a brand new SDORI brace so cheap that I couldn't turn it down!
After buying the brace I examined a few things about it. From seeing pictures of Sonoran Steel's old IFS braces, it appears that SDORI uses smaller tubing, but with the same wall thickness of 1/4". After playing with it for a while, I came to the realization that I would have been hard pressed to fit that much steel between my frame rails if I made my own brace. The SDORI brace weighs in at a hefty 12lbs.
The installation instructions on SDORI's website made the install seem pretty simple, but it was a different story for me. Remember when I said I've been putting off buying a IFS frame brace for the longest time? In that time I've BEAT on my lower A-arm mounts. To get the brace to fit I had to break out the torch and the BFH! After straightening a few things out, I then went back and flatten out a few of the welds from the factory so that the brace would fit over them. This only took a few seconds of hitting them with an angle grinder. Then came the hard part, getting the brace into place. After using my floor jack and a BFH, I was finally able to get the brace in. I'm just curious if I could ever get it out. Here's a picture of it in place
I haven't bolted or welded it in place yet because I haven't decide which I'm planning on going with. I'm not sure if I trust the 5/16 diameter bolts or thin steel of the lower A-arm mounts and I surely don't trust my welds alone (but they are getting better). I'm leaning towards both, since I doubt I'll ever be able to get it out if I wanted to. I also haven't welded it in place because I want to make sure I can still remove the bolt on my front differential mount (the one in the top right corner of the picture) while the brace is in place.
My only real complaint with the brace is that my differential sits on the brace itself. I guess I assumed that there would be a small gap. Oh well, I just hope it doesn't rattle.
10-28-2010, 12:59 AM
#29
Oh and one more thing. After doing a little wheeling by my house, I learned that the weight of my 35s overpower my stock droop bump stops at full droop. They droop to the point where my CVs bind. I'll either have to add some washers, or replace my stock bump stops with something else.
Another issue I have is that my 35" tires rub against my PS box when it's cranked full passenger. Since there's not much I can do about that, I'll probably just limit my steering
Another issue I have is that my 35" tires rub against my PS box when it's cranked full passenger. Since there's not much I can do about that, I'll probably just limit my steering
Last edited by strykersd; 10-28-2010 at 04:23 PM.
10-29-2010, 06:24 AM
#32
Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Acapulco, Gro. Mexico.
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_Congrats man...!
One question:
Are your upper ball joints Original parts or did you find them at autozone?
_See, I'm in the process of changing them, along with the arms bushings (all the 8), maybe you can give me some advise about OEM or aftermarket parts?
Thanks in advance and good luck.!
One question:
Are your upper ball joints Original parts or did you find them at autozone?
_See, I'm in the process of changing them, along with the arms bushings (all the 8), maybe you can give me some advise about OEM or aftermarket parts?
Thanks in advance and good luck.!
02-02-2011, 08:19 PM
#33
I hated the look of the white rusty steel wheels on my 4runner. Two $3 cans of spray paint later and I ended up with this! I love the look of black steel wheels on my 4runner!
In the words of Ricky Bobby in Talladega Nights, "I want to go fast!" Living in Southern California, I like doing some relatively high speed runs though the desert. My hybrid Downey/stock leaf spring pack has been kinked for some time now and I've always hated my stock bump stops.
For the rear I went with a set of Old Man Emu leaf springs. With my longer than stock shackles and 35" tires, when my suspension flexed my leaf springs would go into negative arch, putting my tire into my quarter panel, in turn damaging my leaf springs. Instead of just extending my stock bump stop strike pads, I decided to add another bump stop and run dual bump stops. I used a set of Energy Suspension bump stops (Part# 9-9109G) that a ton of my desert friends run. They're super soft, just what I was looking for.
A few months ago when I switched back to my stock torsion bars, I switched two of my four front bump stops over Energy Suspension bump stops. Although they were an improvement over stock, they weren't what I was looking for. They were barely softer than the stock rubber bump stops. While cruising the internet the other day I came across a nice set of Daystar foam bump stops that would be perfect for my IFS. They measure 2.5" tall and 1.75" diameter, part# KU09042BK. Here's a link to where I bought them from, a pair for just $20 shipped. Oh and FYI if anyone else wants to buy a pair from them, they have pictured a different bump stop.
I installed them in the rear bump stop position of my IFS since it's 3/8" higher than the front bump stop position. Here's a picture of the setup. Keep in mind that I have BJ spacers and a slight torsion bar crank.
All in all, I love the new suspension! I almost completely eliminated harsh bottoming out!
In the words of Ricky Bobby in Talladega Nights, "I want to go fast!" Living in Southern California, I like doing some relatively high speed runs though the desert. My hybrid Downey/stock leaf spring pack has been kinked for some time now and I've always hated my stock bump stops.
For the rear I went with a set of Old Man Emu leaf springs. With my longer than stock shackles and 35" tires, when my suspension flexed my leaf springs would go into negative arch, putting my tire into my quarter panel, in turn damaging my leaf springs. Instead of just extending my stock bump stop strike pads, I decided to add another bump stop and run dual bump stops. I used a set of Energy Suspension bump stops (Part# 9-9109G) that a ton of my desert friends run. They're super soft, just what I was looking for.
A few months ago when I switched back to my stock torsion bars, I switched two of my four front bump stops over Energy Suspension bump stops. Although they were an improvement over stock, they weren't what I was looking for. They were barely softer than the stock rubber bump stops. While cruising the internet the other day I came across a nice set of Daystar foam bump stops that would be perfect for my IFS. They measure 2.5" tall and 1.75" diameter, part# KU09042BK. Here's a link to where I bought them from, a pair for just $20 shipped. Oh and FYI if anyone else wants to buy a pair from them, they have pictured a different bump stop.
I installed them in the rear bump stop position of my IFS since it's 3/8" higher than the front bump stop position. Here's a picture of the setup. Keep in mind that I have BJ spacers and a slight torsion bar crank.
All in all, I love the new suspension! I almost completely eliminated harsh bottoming out!
Last edited by strykersd; 02-03-2011 at 05:27 PM.
02-03-2011, 05:09 PM
#35
Small update, for the longest time I've just had my maglite float around my 4runner. It's always hard to find when I needed it and I've always thought it could be dangerous in a crash. I was first going to buy those cheap plastic maglite mounts, until I heard how when the plastic gets old they get brittle and break. I then discovered Quick Fist clamps. Two of those and I was all set!
02-03-2011, 05:50 PM
#36
03-17-2011, 02:31 PM
#37
Sadly, as much as I love my 4runner, I had to sell it. Things just kept breaking on it and with school and working part time I just don't have the money and time to keep fixing it. For example, in the last two weeks I owned it the door control relay broke (power windows stopped working), my cruise control died and my battery died.
Over the last few years, I've dumped my heart and soul into it and I believe it showed. I always loved when people would give me the "Toyota thumbs up" or someone driving by would scream "Nice 4runner," you never really hear stuff like that when you're driving a modified Honda, don't know why.
I've had some good times and some bad with it. As much as I loved the thing, I just couldn't keep it together. Maybe it was the age or the mileage on it, or maybe it was just a lemon, but either way it was taking up way too much time and money.
Selling the 4runner feels like I'm closing a chapter in my life. I've had some good times and some bad, but I'm glad I bought it. I've made memories I'll cherish forever in it. Maybe I'll pick up another 4WD vehicle in a few years, but with school and work I just don't see it happening anytime soon.
Here's a few pics of the 4runner the day before I sold it
Over the last few years, I've dumped my heart and soul into it and I believe it showed. I always loved when people would give me the "Toyota thumbs up" or someone driving by would scream "Nice 4runner," you never really hear stuff like that when you're driving a modified Honda, don't know why.
I've had some good times and some bad with it. As much as I loved the thing, I just couldn't keep it together. Maybe it was the age or the mileage on it, or maybe it was just a lemon, but either way it was taking up way too much time and money.
Selling the 4runner feels like I'm closing a chapter in my life. I've had some good times and some bad, but I'm glad I bought it. I've made memories I'll cherish forever in it. Maybe I'll pick up another 4WD vehicle in a few years, but with school and work I just don't see it happening anytime soon.
Here's a few pics of the 4runner the day before I sold it
03-18-2011, 10:00 AM
#40
Registered User
Lol those aren't really bad "breakdowns".... a battery is maintenance, don't NEED cruise, and door control relay... helllo junkyard...
Now, if you said a HG blew or something bad... diff story.
Anyways, i know your pain, it was a cool truck, looks like you beat on it too LOL...
Now, if you said a HG blew or something bad... diff story.
Anyways, i know your pain, it was a cool truck, looks like you beat on it too LOL...
