Replacing green coolant with Toyota red.
10-16-2013, 07:41 PM
#21
Note: This is how I do a flush and have good results. However, your results may vary and I accept no liability for you reliance on my 0.02 here.
I've run one gallon of Toyota red (this is the amount of coolant the dealer uses here for fills) topped off with distilled water (DW) in my rig. This is a 40% coolant mix good to about -15f or so (50/50 mix good to -34F). Our stock OEM radiators typically hold about 10-11 quarts.
Supplies:
1 gallon Toyota Red coolant
10 gallons distilled water (set two gallons aside for final fill). DW is about a buck or so a gallon at Wal-greens, etc.
Do not use tap or well water for flushing or filling as it contains nasty minerals.
1 bottle of Prestone cooling system cleaner..optional
Process:
1. Drain the system of the used coolant, retighten drain plug. Here we discard used coolant and all that is generated by the flushes at our local recyling centers free hazardous waste recycling day.
2. Remove overflow tank and give it a good rinsing out. You may have to stuff a rag in there and move it around with a stick to clean it out if it is real dirty.
3. Reinstall overflow tank.
4. Pour bottle of radiator flush into radiator.
5. Pour two gallons of DW into radiator. I also fill block through upper radiator hose.
6. Start vehicle and allow it run following instructions on the bottle. Generally, 10-15 minutes with the heat on hot and fan on high.
7. Shut off vehicle, drain flush and DW out, retighten drain plug.
8. Refill empty radiator with 2 gallons of DW and run engine 10-15 minutes...you want the thermostat to open so water circulates.
9. Repeat steps 7 and 8. We have now used 6 gallons of DW.
10. Repeat steps 7 and 8. We have now used 8 gallons of DW.
11. Shut off engine, drain DW, retighten drain plug
12. Pour 1 gallon of Toyota Red into radiator and slowly add 1 gallon of DW. I pull off the upper radiator hose from where it attaches to the radiator and pour the DW down it to fill the block.
13. Reinstall upper radiator hose. Start truck, turn on heat/fan and allow to run up to temperature adding DW to the radiator as needed.
14. Fill overflow tank with DW so the level is 1/2 way between the Cold/Low and Hot/Full marks.
I then drive a few miles, let everything cool down and add more DW to the radiator as needed. Check several times over the next several day....enjoy a clean cooling system!
Remember, you should be able to get 10-11 quarts of coolant + DW in there assuming your radiator holds near the OEM amount. You can always keep track of how much you drop out as a reference amount.
I've run one gallon of Toyota red (this is the amount of coolant the dealer uses here for fills) topped off with distilled water (DW) in my rig. This is a 40% coolant mix good to about -15f or so (50/50 mix good to -34F). Our stock OEM radiators typically hold about 10-11 quarts.
Supplies:
1 gallon Toyota Red coolant
10 gallons distilled water (set two gallons aside for final fill). DW is about a buck or so a gallon at Wal-greens, etc.
Do not use tap or well water for flushing or filling as it contains nasty minerals.
1 bottle of Prestone cooling system cleaner..optional
Process:
1. Drain the system of the used coolant, retighten drain plug. Here we discard used coolant and all that is generated by the flushes at our local recyling centers free hazardous waste recycling day.
2. Remove overflow tank and give it a good rinsing out. You may have to stuff a rag in there and move it around with a stick to clean it out if it is real dirty.
3. Reinstall overflow tank.
4. Pour bottle of radiator flush into radiator.
5. Pour two gallons of DW into radiator. I also fill block through upper radiator hose.
6. Start vehicle and allow it run following instructions on the bottle. Generally, 10-15 minutes with the heat on hot and fan on high.
7. Shut off vehicle, drain flush and DW out, retighten drain plug.
8. Refill empty radiator with 2 gallons of DW and run engine 10-15 minutes...you want the thermostat to open so water circulates.
9. Repeat steps 7 and 8. We have now used 6 gallons of DW.
10. Repeat steps 7 and 8. We have now used 8 gallons of DW.
11. Shut off engine, drain DW, retighten drain plug
12. Pour 1 gallon of Toyota Red into radiator and slowly add 1 gallon of DW. I pull off the upper radiator hose from where it attaches to the radiator and pour the DW down it to fill the block.
13. Reinstall upper radiator hose. Start truck, turn on heat/fan and allow to run up to temperature adding DW to the radiator as needed.
14. Fill overflow tank with DW so the level is 1/2 way between the Cold/Low and Hot/Full marks.
I then drive a few miles, let everything cool down and add more DW to the radiator as needed. Check several times over the next several day....enjoy a clean cooling system!
Remember, you should be able to get 10-11 quarts of coolant + DW in there assuming your radiator holds near the OEM amount. You can always keep track of how much you drop out as a reference amount.
10-16-2013, 08:12 PM
#22
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Now just a minute, hold the phone...everything I've read on Yotatech regarding coolant says go with Toyota red. And my longtime Indy Toyota mech told me the same thing 20 years ago. So what gives? Any evidence the Toyota red does damage? What's your experience? Anyone? Provided the old green stuff is thoroughly flushed out first, I'm finding it hard to believe the Toyota red will hurt your engine.
The red stuff is awesome. But it has to be done right. It doesn't like contamination. I've used it in rigs I've had in the past, but now just go with the green. Easy to find, can use the yellow stuff if needed, and very forgiving.
I'll say it again: the red stuff will not hurt your engine.
10-17-2013, 05:30 AM
#24
Now just a minute, hold the phone...everything I've read on Yotatech regarding coolant says go with Toyota red. And my longtime Indy Toyota mech told me the same thing 20 years ago. So what gives? Any evidence the Toyota red does damage? What's your experience? Anyone? Provided the old green stuff is thoroughly flushed out first, I'm finding it hard to believe the Toyota red will hurt your engine.
#2 Friend had an 86 4runner. He put red coolant in it. The head gasket started leaking coolant externally. Put green back in and the leak slowed significantly. Ended up replacing the head gasket.
#3 I work on toyotas for a living. They have had some major issues with water pump leaks for the last 15 years at least. So much so that they now have a TSB claiming that water pump leaks are normal. I have fixed leaking water pumps by installing green coolant in place of the red.
I'm not the only Toyota tech that will tell you these things. I used to get the red stuff for free and still didn't use it.
But go ahead and put red coolant in your old truck.
Last edited by j2the-e; 10-17-2013 at 06:18 AM.
10-17-2013, 06:12 AM
#25
#1 Here's my experience. My 87 4runner. Complete engine rebuild, all new Factory hoses, new water pump, tstat, radiator, basically a whole new cooling system. Filled it up and 3 hoses were leaking coolant past the clamps within a week. Clamps were tight. I drained the red and put green in. I never had another leak for 75k miles.
#2 Friend had an 86 4runner. He put red coolant in it. The head gasket started coolant leaking externally. Put green back in and the leak slowed significantly. Ended up replacing the head gasket.
#3 I work on toyotas for a living. They have had some major issues with water pump leaks for the last 15 years at least. So much so that they now have a TSB claiming that water pump leaks are normal. I have fixed leaking water pumps by installing green coolant in place of the red.
I'm not the only Toyota tech that will tell you these things. I used to get the red stuff for free and still didn't use it.
But go ahead and put red coolant in your old truck.
#2 Friend had an 86 4runner. He put red coolant in it. The head gasket started coolant leaking externally. Put green back in and the leak slowed significantly. Ended up replacing the head gasket.
#3 I work on toyotas for a living. They have had some major issues with water pump leaks for the last 15 years at least. So much so that they now have a TSB claiming that water pump leaks are normal. I have fixed leaking water pumps by installing green coolant in place of the red.
I'm not the only Toyota tech that will tell you these things. I used to get the red stuff for free and still didn't use it.
But go ahead and put red coolant in your old truck.
10-17-2013, 06:22 AM
#27
Any high quality green coolant is fine. I think I put prestone in my truck.
If a vehicle already has red in it, I will typically keep it that way. But if it has been changed to green previously, I always put green back in.
If a vehicle already has red in it, I will typically keep it that way. But if it has been changed to green previously, I always put green back in.
10-17-2013, 08:01 AM
#30
Just when did distilled water become popular??I have never used it or really seen a place that carried it but never really looked.I have mixed red and green other then the ugly brown cooler I have seen no bad effects.
I like the Toyota red but seem to change it about once a year for one reason or another . about 2 cases a year only 12 gallons so I guess it is not as bad as I thought.
10-17-2013, 08:23 AM
#31
Registered User
I used to use green coolant in my '94 22re. As manufactures went to "universal" coolants, and tradiational green became harder to find, I went to Zerex G05 after a good distilled water flush.
Last edited by rustypigeon; 10-17-2013 at 08:27 AM.
10-17-2013, 08:52 AM
#32
Registered User
Just to add to what j2the-e said. I did a BUNCH of research trying to find out if I should use red or green coolant in my 88 with a 99 3.4 swapped in. Everybody said use red and I almost did.
However, I found that red is designed for aluminum systems. Iron block ok. My 88 has a brass radiator and brass heater core and from what I read in numerous tech info out there is that Toyota Red will not protect brass or copper components.
Many posted up they have used it in brass/copper systems and have not seen any problems. I opted to play it safe and stay with the new universal green or yellow or whatever color it is.
About the leaking.........I don't know if Caterpillar Red is the same as Toyota Red (Looks the same) but, it also seems to leak. It builds a crust up around hose clamps, fittings and water pump weep holes. It also seems to smell like you have a slight coolant leak. It stops when you put the old type green in. This is my experience after 15 years at a Cat dealership.
My 06 Tacoma and my wife's 08 FJ came with Red so I run red in them. Even though they do smell like they have a leak and they have the crusties around the hose clamps.
I'm running green in my old stuff. Sorry to get off your original flush question. That at least got answered. I just think this issue needed more discussion.
However, I found that red is designed for aluminum systems. Iron block ok. My 88 has a brass radiator and brass heater core and from what I read in numerous tech info out there is that Toyota Red will not protect brass or copper components.
Many posted up they have used it in brass/copper systems and have not seen any problems. I opted to play it safe and stay with the new universal green or yellow or whatever color it is.
About the leaking.........I don't know if Caterpillar Red is the same as Toyota Red (Looks the same) but, it also seems to leak. It builds a crust up around hose clamps, fittings and water pump weep holes. It also seems to smell like you have a slight coolant leak. It stops when you put the old type green in. This is my experience after 15 years at a Cat dealership.
My 06 Tacoma and my wife's 08 FJ came with Red so I run red in them. Even though they do smell like they have a leak and they have the crusties around the hose clamps.
I'm running green in my old stuff. Sorry to get off your original flush question. That at least got answered. I just think this issue needed more discussion.
10-17-2013, 08:56 AM
#33
When you say "green", what brand are you talking about? Many of the "green" coolants today such as Prestone all makes at Walmart are basically DexCool, not the old fashion silicate green coolants we used 15+ years ago.
I used to use green coolant in my '94 22re. As manufactures went to "universal" coolants, and tradiational green became harder to find, I went to Zerex G05 after a good distilled water flush.
I used to use green coolant in my '94 22re. As manufactures went to "universal" coolants, and tradiational green became harder to find, I went to Zerex G05 after a good distilled water flush.
10-17-2013, 09:03 AM
#34
Just to add to what j2the-e said. I did a BUNCH of research trying to find out if I should use red or green coolant in my 88 with a 99 3.4 swapped in. Everybody said use red and I almost did.
However, I found that red is designed for aluminum systems. Iron block ok. My 88 has a brass radiator and brass heater core and from what I read in numerous tech info out there is that Toyota Red will not protect brass or copper components.
Many posted up they have used it in brass/copper systems and have not seen any problems. I opted to play it safe and stay with the new universal green or yellow or whatever color it is.
About the leaking.........I don't know if Caterpillar Red is the same as Toyota Red (Looks the same) but, it also seems to leak. It builds a crust up around hose clamps, fittings and water pump weep holes. It also seems to smell like you have a slight coolant leak. It stops when you put the old type green in. This is my experience after 15 years at a Cat dealership.
My 06 Tacoma and my wife's 08 FJ came with Red so I run red in them. Even though they do smell like they have a leak and they have the crusties around the hose clamps.
I'm running green in my old stuff. Sorry to get off your original flush question. That at least got answered. I just think this issue needed more discussion.
However, I found that red is designed for aluminum systems. Iron block ok. My 88 has a brass radiator and brass heater core and from what I read in numerous tech info out there is that Toyota Red will not protect brass or copper components.
Many posted up they have used it in brass/copper systems and have not seen any problems. I opted to play it safe and stay with the new universal green or yellow or whatever color it is.
About the leaking.........I don't know if Caterpillar Red is the same as Toyota Red (Looks the same) but, it also seems to leak. It builds a crust up around hose clamps, fittings and water pump weep holes. It also seems to smell like you have a slight coolant leak. It stops when you put the old type green in. This is my experience after 15 years at a Cat dealership.
My 06 Tacoma and my wife's 08 FJ came with Red so I run red in them. Even though they do smell like they have a leak and they have the crusties around the hose clamps.
I'm running green in my old stuff. Sorry to get off your original flush question. That at least got answered. I just think this issue needed more discussion.
10-17-2013, 01:12 PM
#35
Registered User
I'll probably get flamed for this but I used Wal-Mart universal coolant. I originally picked up Prestone. I compared labels and ingredients were EXACTLY the same. The wally world stuff is even made in USA.
If you change out the stuff like you should you shouldn't have any problems. Some of the guys that swear by the long life Toyota red even admit they change out their coolant every year or two instead of the 100k miles or 5 years.
Run what you feel comfortable with. Whatever you decide will be fine IF you do proper maintenance. That includes the radiator being professionally serviced (not just back flushed on the car) as needed.
No matter how good your cooling system is maintained by flushing, your block and system parts will shed debris and over time WILL plug your rad. I start getting nervous over 5 years.
When I did my 3.4 swap I had my 3 row brass/copper rad serviced. It looked spotless when looking in the top tank and was 3 years old.
The shop said it was a good quality rad and it definitely had a bunch of tubes plugging up near the bottom but was worth keeping it. Cost me $75.
My 4 cylinder rad is cooling my V6 just fine here in Az.
If you change out the stuff like you should you shouldn't have any problems. Some of the guys that swear by the long life Toyota red even admit they change out their coolant every year or two instead of the 100k miles or 5 years.
Run what you feel comfortable with. Whatever you decide will be fine IF you do proper maintenance. That includes the radiator being professionally serviced (not just back flushed on the car) as needed.
No matter how good your cooling system is maintained by flushing, your block and system parts will shed debris and over time WILL plug your rad. I start getting nervous over 5 years.
When I did my 3.4 swap I had my 3 row brass/copper rad serviced. It looked spotless when looking in the top tank and was 3 years old.
The shop said it was a good quality rad and it definitely had a bunch of tubes plugging up near the bottom but was worth keeping it. Cost me $75.
My 4 cylinder rad is cooling my V6 just fine here in Az.
10-17-2013, 02:24 PM
#36
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#1 Here's my experience. My 87 4runner. Complete engine rebuild, all new Factory hoses, new water pump, tstat, radiator, basically a whole new cooling system. Filled it up and 3 hoses were leaking coolant past the clamps within a week. Clamps were tight. I drained the red and put green in. I never had another leak for 75k miles.
#2 Friend had an 86 4runner. He put red coolant in it. The head gasket started leaking coolant externally. Put green back in and the leak slowed significantly. Ended up replacing the head gasket.
#3 I work on toyotas for a living. They have had some major issues with water pump leaks for the last 15 years at least. So much so that they now have a TSB claiming that water pump leaks are normal. I have fixed leaking water pumps by installing green coolant in place of the red.
I'm not the only Toyota tech that will tell you these things. I used to get the red stuff for free and still didn't use it.
But go ahead and put red coolant in your old truck.
#2 Friend had an 86 4runner. He put red coolant in it. The head gasket started leaking coolant externally. Put green back in and the leak slowed significantly. Ended up replacing the head gasket.
#3 I work on toyotas for a living. They have had some major issues with water pump leaks for the last 15 years at least. So much so that they now have a TSB claiming that water pump leaks are normal. I have fixed leaking water pumps by installing green coolant in place of the red.
I'm not the only Toyota tech that will tell you these things. I used to get the red stuff for free and still didn't use it.
But go ahead and put red coolant in your old truck.
Man that tsb cracks me up. The pictures they show of what is an "acceptable" amount of leakage is ridiculous. Thats just toyota not wanting to pay for warranty repairs. i would stick with green just because of the cost.
10-17-2013, 02:31 PM
#37
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Ok, so maybe I turned the "should" into "shall". Any grocery store has gallons of distilled water for cheap.
Last edited by rworegon; 10-17-2013 at 02:32 PM.
10-17-2013, 02:36 PM
#38
Registered User
rworegon has it spot on. You only need water, a drain pan and 2 quarts (or 1 if you are not worried about freezing). If you water is good, tap works fine. I live near the Sierras and our tap water is basically all snow melt, very little added. If you live in an urban area, buy distilled. The rest is optional.
I recommend not removing the engine drain plug. This will introduce air into the engine coolant and you'll be "burping" the radiator until it all cleans out.
I switched from green to red because for whatever reason, I put in green and it corroded my radiator. Toyota Red does not do that for me. I was advised by a Toyota tech to switch to red. And don't worry if you are stuck having to add coolant on the side of the road, water works just fine! Antifreeze only keeps from freezing, doesn't really affect boiling point all that much.
Oh and BTW, the Toyota Red bottle has all the instructions on how to do a flush printed on the back
Read second page, lots of opinions here! aztoyman has got it right, whether you put in red or green, if you keep up on maintenance neither color will give you any grief. It's just coolant.
I recommend not removing the engine drain plug. This will introduce air into the engine coolant and you'll be "burping" the radiator until it all cleans out.
I switched from green to red because for whatever reason, I put in green and it corroded my radiator. Toyota Red does not do that for me. I was advised by a Toyota tech to switch to red. And don't worry if you are stuck having to add coolant on the side of the road, water works just fine! Antifreeze only keeps from freezing, doesn't really affect boiling point all that much.
Oh and BTW, the Toyota Red bottle has all the instructions on how to do a flush printed on the back
Read second page, lots of opinions here! aztoyman has got it right, whether you put in red or green, if you keep up on maintenance neither color will give you any grief. It's just coolant.
Last edited by Gamefreakgc; 10-17-2013 at 02:43 PM.
10-17-2013, 02:40 PM
#39
To add to what others have said about Toyota's 100k mile change interval:
It only applies to the pink (sllc- super long life coolant)
And after the first 100k they recommend every 30k. It's just a ploy to keep the calculated cost of ownership low and to a lesser extend, have less impact on the environment. Its all about cost of ownership these days. Lower cost of ownership = more car sales.
Think 100k mile iridium plugs, lifetime auto trans fluid, timing chain, and now 10,000 mile oil change intervals.
The red (llc- long life coolant) I believe was recommended every 30k. But don't quote me on that one. I've always changed my green coolant every 2-3 years.
It only applies to the pink (sllc- super long life coolant)
And after the first 100k they recommend every 30k. It's just a ploy to keep the calculated cost of ownership low and to a lesser extend, have less impact on the environment. Its all about cost of ownership these days. Lower cost of ownership = more car sales.
Think 100k mile iridium plugs, lifetime auto trans fluid, timing chain, and now 10,000 mile oil change intervals.
The red (llc- long life coolant) I believe was recommended every 30k. But don't quote me on that one. I've always changed my green coolant every 2-3 years.
