Crymson

If you reside in California your car will never pass the visual smog inspection with a homemade turbo setup, no matter how clean it runs.

shoes138

so that mean i would hafta PnP the heads, O/S vavles, and prolly cams that should hopefully broading the torque range! now how would i get the whole oil line to work? and also like you said "that would mean a ecu might need to figured into your project" that i would most likely need a piggyback? thanks for your help guys!

dcg9381

You should talk to someone who has already done it and had some success with it.
Better head bolts, stainless valves, and MLS head gasklets are added insurance, certainly.

The oil feed can be a "T" off an oil pressure sender - or a drill and tap of the right place. The oil return, as Rick mentioned, is usually a gravity feed. If your turbo is mounted too low, you have to pump it back to the pan...

The stock ECU is capable of absorbing some "mild" injector change and still tuning you to 14.7:1 in closed loop. That's probably lean for a turbo application. A piggy back would be best, something that can run you a bit more rich and keep you there. As I mentioned earlier - the other 3.0 owner had a 7th injector fired only under boost... In this config, megasquirt only needs to know RPM input, boost pressure, intake temp.. Timing is the hard part and that's removed if you're running it as piggy back.

For tuning advise - talk to Rick (fullboogie) - he knows his stuff.

tc

If you're really interested, do a search on 3VZE turbo - there have been MANY threads by some people who know WAY too much about turboing Toyota engines, and all the ins and outs of what injector pulse cycles will be, what flashing/piggybacking is required, etc. I think if someone was motivated, they could take all that info and make a helluva setup. There was even a guy who had a protoype manifold done and all the plumbing figured out. (Thread was in the 3rd gen folder)

The trick is making the cost/benefit ratio higher than a 5VZFE swap. If a turbo is going to cost $2k-3k, and you're going to get performance similar to a 5VZFE, but still have a 3VZE with no aftermarket support, it would be hard to justify over a swap (especially with the potential to supercharge the 5VZFE...)?

I don't really care about lag - I always have plenty of time to spool up the turbo before I need the power.

On a side note, do wastegates work by pressure differential (say 5 psi over ambient) or a certain pressure (say 20 psi)? The reason I ask, is because I would LOVE to have a turbo that just brought my engine back to sea level, or very slightly more - no risk to the motor, but a tremendous performance increase over the high passes here in CO.

dcg9381

Basically they're a spring that keeps the wastegate (turbo by-pass) shut. The springs can have different pressures required to open them.. They can be 5 psi or 25 psi.

dcg9381

More links:
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showt...ighlight=turbo


(non-remote mount)

tc

OK - so it's always against/over ambient... bummer

dcg9381

It's intake pressure vs spring constant * displacement of the spring.
You can bleed intake pressure (at the wastegate).

What is it's you're trying to accomplish?

Bumpin' Yota

No. FI has a huge advantage over NA at high elevations. The pressure in the intake is fed through a vacuum tube to the WG solenoid. This pressure transmitted to the solenoid counteracts the pressure a strong spring is applying to the WG itself. At X boost level, the WG will open. So even at elevation a FI setup would be close to its output at sealevel.

the only thing i can think of is that at a higher elevation it would take longer for the turbo to spool since the actual compressor has to spin quite a bit faster to achieve X boost. Whether or not the delayed boost is noticable, I have NO idea....

turbo/SC gurus am i on or way off?

tc

Altitude compensation - low boost at low altitude, high boost at high altitude, so the engine always performs the same regardless of altitude and you're never out of the designed operating range.

Kutter

I am planning a turbo install on my 3.4. Expect to order the parts in early March. The goal is a $1000 dollar complete install and 225-250 RWHP target. If it works out I have a 3.0 2wd that I thought I would try it on just to see. Also planning to do remote install on 3.4

I've read reports for 3.4 of 225 RHP from remote turbo at boost as low as 4 psi. Fuel management is accomplished with simple FMU.

If I in fact get to the 3.0 I have thought it would be good to put oversize valves in first. Knocking can be addressed with intercooler and FMU air/fuel ratio adjustments.

My 3.4 4runner 4x4 is mainly a street vehicle with limited trail use.

Bumpin' Yota

thus far with my 3.0 ive had NO knocking issues whatsoever post rebuild. I think after a good topend rebuild that cleans out hte carbon deposits you should be good to go for NA, now FI, yeah definatly need an intercooler/wmi or both.

Schralper

You can do some searching here on remote mounts
http://www.turbomustangs.com/smf/
there's also a REAL good book on turbo basics Street turbocharging
http://www.amazon.com/Street-Turboch...e=UTF8&s=books
one of the advantages of remotes in the lack of need for an i/c becuz the length of plumbing offers enuff cooling.
Also your boost shouldn't be more the 5-7psi, which is noticable.
Headgaskets blowing on 3vze is a design/overheating/Chitty gasket issue.

302Toyota

Im doin a remote mount turbo on a 3vz right now i will keep you updated[YOUTUBE]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DQTH059lRlM[/YOUTUBE]