rworegon

If you have suggested filling the block through the upper radiator hose, good for you. This is my preferred method.

However, it seems a lot of folks just fill the radiator to the top (some coolant will trickle back through the upper hose maybe) leaving a relatively dry block until the t-stat opens which it nearly cannot do since there is no coolant on the backside.

BTW, the FSM just says slowly fill the engine with coolant and says nothing about filling through the upper hose. But, we know that filling the block is the way to go.

7m4x4dude

Go to the parts store and get a block check tester. Its a tube you put a colored chemicle into and it sucks the air from the open rad cap. And if any of that air in your coolant system has high levels of co2 it will change the color from blue to yellow of the chemicle. Thus resulting in a bhg. Or a cracked block/ head allowing combustion gasses into the cooling system.

Before banging your head over what part to replace next ill do this test.

Dirt Driver

The jiggle valve lets that air pocket behind the t-stat pass through. That is its purpose.

How?

SPARKS89

iTrader: (1)

Please keep in mind that most of us are not 'real' mechanics and possess neither the knowledge or equipment that 'real' mechanics have. We're trying to do the best we can with what we have and offer as much help as we can to someone that has asked for it. I also went back on this thread and checked...you have not offered any suggestions on this problem. If you have posted a solution to the problem somewhere else on the forum please be kind enough to attach a link to the appropriate thread so he can get his truck fixed. If all you are willing to offer is sarcastic comments and criticism please feel free to not comment at all. We're busy enough working on fixing problems so that we can get to family for the holidays or to be able to get back and forth to our jobs (since we're not 'real' mechanics we have to do something else to provide for our families) and have neither the time nor the patience to tolerate unneeded/unuseful comments. Thank you.

Pat8942

Fill it thru the upper hose, put the hose back on, top off radiator, put cap ON, fill overflow past full, run engine until it reaches operating temp, after cool down check level in overflow, at this point there is no need to remove the cap to double check.

rworegon

Thanks for sharing your process.

The filling through the upper radiator hose is key, it semes, as it eliminates dry spots/air pockets in the block. I've always used similar steps with excellent results.

7m4x4dude

If the cooling system doesnt pressurize. The coolant boils at 212-220. With 11-15psi pressure it allows coolant not to boil till 265-290. Greater psi and higher boiling point. That is also a reason a.soft hose is bad.
A boiling system can create super heated steam pockets and blow hoses due to excessive pressure build up

Huckm80

"If the cooling system doesnt pressurize. The coolant boils at 212-220. With 11-15psi pressure it allows coolant not to boil till 265-290. Greater psi and higher boiling point. That is also a reason a.soft hose is bad.
A boiling system can create super heated steam pockets and blow hoses due to excessive pressure build up"

Exactly. I am also thinking that a bad cap could suck air into the system when the engine cools, exacerbating the steam pockets/overheating issues, but I am just theorizing.

Pat8942

The radiator cap won't suck air if it's bad, if the cap isn't sealing the pressure will be released and the pressure inside and outside the radiator will be equal. Air is lighter than water and will always rise, it can't sink to the bottom, the only reason the overflow gets drawn back into the radiator is because it's sealed and no air can get in and as it cools and contracts it creates a vacuum inside the radiator, any air introduced would break the vacuum and the pressure would equalize. . I think this is something they teach in grade school. So bad cap unlikely

7m4x4dude

Squeeze your upper rad hose and if you see coolant swish in and out of your overflow bottle you have a bad cap.

But please do a block test and test for co2 in the cooling system. It is pointless to argue over air bubbles and how to bleed them if your head gasket is leaking compression into the cooling system.

ThatGuy1295

Not in total agreement with the first sentence. Some of the people on here are better then your typical full of themselves auto shop mechanics who spend all day doing oil changes and replacing sensors after using a code reader. If theres one thing ive noticed its that most, not all, real mechanics are limited to a small range of knowledge because of their access to special equipment and small range of problems they have to deal with. Agian not insulting all mechanics here just the ones that are way to full of themselves becuase it says mechanic on their name tag.

Pat8942

Sounds like somebody has an envy thing goin on, all mechanics aren't just parts changers as you suggest, and if that's been your experience, than try another shop, better yet learn something and you won't have to take your vehicle to them, you'll be able to fix it yourself, and do it right the first time.
By learning something I mean, real knowledge, not things you picked up from other people who know less than you.

ThatGuy1295

BlahBlahBlah.... you got me all wrong. "I siad not all mechanics" Read my post again. Dont be a typical mechanic and over look the obvious.


And ive never takin any of my vehicles to any mechanics ever. Im speaking for others. And dont try putting words in peoples mouths on here, you'll just look stupid.

waskillywabbit

iTrader: (-1)

The wise man always surrounds himself with wiser friends. The fool is the wisest among them.

:wabbit2:

SPARKS89

iTrader: (1)

Sorry cheez. We got a little side tracked. Do you have any more updates on your issue?

ThatGuy1295

Sure did.

narab123

please can any body help me!

i had also a problem in the coolant system!
i have a 4runner 1994.

after a gasket problem causing overheating!,
after get new gasket, new rad, new fan clutch , new rad cap, and new thermostat
from about 4 months! every thing working fine .
but i notice little leak in the rad i get it to the shop And fixed it!
now i face a strange problem! when drive in the town every thing going well!
if i drive it for 10 min! in the road to the mountain! when turn the car off

i noticed a pressure in the plastic tank when coolant come back from rad to the tank
causing some noise no overheating the temp stay normal

any body can advice on this problem

rworegon

Narab123, I'll give a bit of advice: start your own thread instead of hijacking this thread with your issue.

We can help you in your own thread.

94Yo-toe

This is a common issue with the 22re and the 3vze, and for me there has been a simple solution. Fill the radiator and overflow up the best you can, then drive the truck onto a STEEP angle, for me its the hill off my driveway. I simply drive the front tires up a 4' hill and let the truck run until it warms up. This method has worked for me on both my 22re AND my 3vze. This angle forces the air gap between the thermostat and the antifreeze upward so that the antifreeze sits against the thermostat and allows it to open. After the temp levels, pull the truck down and with the heater on full blast slowly relieve the pressure on the cap by backing it up a half turn. I am usually able to remove the cap completely but there is a chance the pressure can be to great and the antifreeze could blow up in your face, so use EXTREME CAUTION. But essentially you should be able to top the radiator off with antifreeze and be done with it.

narab123

thanks for u reply!
but do u think it is an air poket Problem! cause i have this car from about 6 years
i remove the rad. may times during those years! every time i just fill coolant and no need
to remove air cause on the top of the plastic tank there is a valve to remove air poket.

what do u think!