OrRunner

iTrader: (1)

Those 6 holes for the fly wheel are on the end of the crank, your sleeve will slide right over it (check out the diameter of your micro sleeve, should be the same size as the piece with the 6 holes in it)

and your steps look correct to me! Good luck my friend, also if I can give any advice for you, would be to take the other guys help, you can get your tranny pretty close to lined up with that jack, however someone needs to be on the tail end of the tranny to lift up and down to help line things up, it will make your life easier and will be well worth the extra 12 pk when you get to enjoy 6 of them!

Philbert

iTrader: (2)

Kind of a side question that I'll need to address sooner than later. When I took off the crossmember, one of the 8 bolts that mounts to the frame would turn in place but not go in or out. I ended up hacksawing it off to remove the crossmember.

Any idea what could have caused it to "suspend"? Like I said, it wasn't frozen - it rotated fine.

I have a thread chasing kit so I plan to do that regardless...but want to know how best to get this sucker out and clear the way?

Thanks!

Philbert

iTrader: (2)

LOL, you're right, and I DO plan to get a buddy to help me out for this step - no way in hell I'm trying it solo with a floor jack, after my experience getting it out!!

Will keep you posted - thanks!

OrRunner

iTrader: (1)

sounds like it overtightend and then stripped at that point, maybe on the bolt threads themselves? So to say, that the bolt threads are crap and just spin since there is no start to the thread on the bolt. I normally would try and use a punch and then just use a tap and rethread the hole and get a new bolt. But its goes in your frame, kind of a wierd one, maybe tack weld another bolt head to it, put two nuts on that bolt and try and get it to unscrew? This is one I would almost have to tinker with for a bit before I would come up with something, I will keep my thought process open for you though!

Just looked at your pic, I would just drill it out with small bit, than go larger and larger til your almost ehh 3/4 if the way through, you should be able to take some vice grips at that point and grab the protruding end and pull it out (should collapse on itself and come out in pieces) dont use to big of a bit or you will mess up your threads, then use a tap and give that hole some new threads and get a new bolt

Philbert

iTrader: (2)

Thanks - I like the drilling out idea - will try that I think.

Phil

abecedarian

Sorry to be conflicting but....

The marks on your flywheel: the concentric, evenly spaced semi-circular marks, are from fly-cut machining of the flywheel. As the clutch was done ~20K ago, it would hopefully still show those marks.

Chatter marks will look like this:

See the dark spots around the pressure plate disc? Chatter marks on the flywheel will look the same. Oil builds up little pockets, attracts clutch disc dust and the dust builds up.

This flywheel came off my truck just a week or so ago:

You can see the machining marks on the left as well as the heat check and chatter marks and cracking caused by a broken clutch disc on the right. My truck was near impossible to get going from a stop "smoothly".

Your clutch disc shows what I would expect from a non-asbestos disc: reddish dust around the springs. Your flywheel shows what I would expect from a recent clutch repair: machine marks and reddish dust around the inside of the flywheel. I see no evidence of oil or grease on the flywheel.

You're pressure plate, however.... I did mention earlier that the wear on the release springs (fingers) doesn't quite look right. That may be an illusion, still, caused by grease on the tips, as there should be some but maybe if you clean it up it'll look different.

Your pilot bearing? I'd probably skip out changing. If you want to pull it and not make a mess with grease or damage your sockets and stuff, Autozone rents a bearing puller (part # 27059) for $15.00, and a slide-hammer (part #27033) for $30. The puller may not fit inside the pilot bearing but it's easy enough to break the bearing cage and get balls and center race out leaving the outer race to hook on to- that was my problem and after breaking the bearing, leaving the outer race stuck, it took me two slides on the hammer and my pilot popped out. When you get done and return them you get your $45 back; keep them and they're yours.

Your oil leak? Arround the crank, a sleeve could reduce or elliminate oil seepage, and a new seal may do so too. If you do sleeve it, make sure you get a new seal to accomodate the sleeve's larger diameter otherwise you'll be tearing up seals. Then again it looks like it's just the rear of the oil pan and oil's been caught up and slung to the side by the engine side of the flywheel.

On second thought, there's a lot of maybe's in there. Comes down to what you want to do, what you can afford and what "really" needs replaced.

Philbert

iTrader: (2)

Thanks Abe for the photos and additional feedback. The flywheel appears just like you mention - even machining marks with no "chatter" marks. I think I may get it resurfaced anyway, since I'm in there and spending money on this lol. The pilot bearing I'm going to try - and use the socket method (craftsman will replace if I break it anyway).

I'm feeling prett confident on the next steps, so I'll let you guys know how it goes in the next couple days....stay tuned!

Phil

abecedarian

Good luck!

Philbert

iTrader: (2)

Just ordered the input seal from my local auto store.

They also ordered a SACHS new flywheel ($53). Local machine shop wants $75 to resurface mine so....

Then again, maybe I can get away with mine - it really DOES look/feel smooth as glass to be honest. On the fence about that one but will decide soon.

Philbert

iTrader: (2)

Didn't get to it yesterday but hope to tomorrow. Will take lots of photos....

abecedarian

Imagine... a new flywheel costs less than machining an old one?

I mulled over machining mine but thought: machining takes metal off the flywheel, metal off makes it thinner, thinner flywheel means the pressure plate doesn't put it's full clamping force on the clutch disc. So I replaced it.

If you're worried about glaze, and you have a right-angle grinder, get a flap type or composite wheel (like you'd use for body work) of 800-1000 grit and very lightly rough up the flywheel and pressure plate. Not too much, just light pressure: you don't want deep grooves, and if you can make the pattern uniform, even better.


Waiting....

Philbert

iTrader: (2)

Picked up the flywheel and input shaft seal tonight, and a replacement bolt for the crossmember. They didn't have flywheel bolts so I may need to source the extra one I want to get from the dealer.

Not sure I'll have time tonight - out to dinner with the missus in a bit. I'm itching to get back to it and make some progress!

Philbert

iTrader: (2)

Trailgear tranny brace and Marlin shifter bits finally came today too!

c0ugar69

I would just reuse the old flywheel, it still looks good from the pics. also if it is too smooth you can scuff the surface with some emery cloth and clean it up. Resurfacing the flywheel does not reduce the clamping force on the clutch because they resurface the entire face so every thing is still the same. What were the symptoms you had with the old tranny? doesnt look to be clutch related. grease on the splines and throw out bearing are normal as the bearing slides back and forth on the spline shaft. might as well go dual cases while your in there . on the mount issue i think the gap is normal to allow the mount to flex. you may need new engine mounts if its moving too much under load, mine was doing that and now with new engine mounts it barely moves. good luck with the swap.

morena67

Subscribed...
- I have an oil leak coming out from my trans fork... guess is my rear main seal...

GOOD LUCK.!

Philbert

iTrader: (2)

Thanks Cougar.

We stayed in tonight so I had some time to wrench on it (heading back out now).

The symptoms are described in the link at the begining of this post. Pretty sure it's not clutch, but the transmission itself (20,000 miles on the remann unit). The mechanic did transmission, clutch, motor mounts when we did it, so who knows if it's just the transmission taking a crap on its own. Cougar - check out the videos in the other thread of mine and see the flex I'm referring to and let me know your thoughts?

I spent about 20 minutes before dinner getting the pilot bearing out with a 5/16" 1/4" drive socket, extension, and rubber mallet (plus a couple sheets of paper and cup of water - worked like a charm! I'll post photos later with the step by step, since it appears that cool youtube video I posted above has been taken down by the author - WTF??

I'm heading out now to attack the rear main seal - wish me luck!

PS - no dual cases for me....though, could I just save the "old" transfer case from my broken tranny and attach it later while leaving the transmission in the truck? If so, I may do that for later

c0ugar69

yea I think you can use the transfer case off your old tranny later. also if the rear main is leaking use the sleeve and a new seal. i put one on mine when i rebuilt it. worked great. I bought the sleeve at NAPA auto parts. looks like fun. I will check out the vid and let you know what I think. you can fill the hole with grease instead of paper and get the same result, works well did it on mine too.

c0ugar69

do you have a link to the thread with the video??

Buck87

Are you getting a new cross member from trail gear? The reason that I ask is if you go to a duel case in the future I think that you will need a different cross member.

Philbert

iTrader: (2)

Cougar - here's the link to the first thread I started with video:

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...nt-now-241763/

I have a sleeve and new rear main seal and plan to use them both.

Buck87 - No I don't have the TG dual case crossmember - just stock. I won't go dual cases right now....just wondering if saving one of my cases (from the old transmission) would be worth it if I added it later (if that can be done while the transmission is still on the truck....since i don't want to do this job again anytime soon!).

Rear mian is off now, and I'm heading out to hopefully get the new one in, and the sleeve on, etc....

pics coming