Philbert

iTrader: (2)

Welcome to YT!

I bought an OEM 22RE gasket from www.toyotapartszone.com. Just go there, enter your VIN, and they will present you with the parts that fit. It was $35 I think.

Here is the part number from my invoice:

11115-35030 GASKET,CYLINDER HEAD
JT4RN62S7H0106676 [4-RUNNER TRUCK | 1987 | USA]
Replaced by: 11115-35060

gottadog

iTrader: (3)

Hey Phil. Dunno if you have taken your parts to be tanked yet. I used Main Machine in Concord. He is one of the cheaper guys around. My grandfather and I have use him in the past for other engines.

Anyway I have a head bolt tap if you need to borrow one. Currently my truck is down. sent my injectors out for cleaning and the CSI came back leaking bad.

Anyway if you need anything I'm close by.

Philbert

iTrader: (2)

Thanks Dario for the offer! I sent blknblue a pm last night about him sending me his but if he hasn't already I would love to borrow yours since you're local

I fly in to oakland at 530 tonight...any chance I can swing by your work to get it? Or maybe Saturday...I will be in the dublin area Sunday morning and could swing by? Text me?

Fish456

Thanks a lot! I just bought a gasket kit from NAPA auto parts. will keep everyone updated, because I have no idea what I am doing...

BLKNBLU

iTrader: (1)

I haven't sent it yet, so if you can go local that would certainly be the easiest way to go. Just let me know if anything changes.

gottadog

iTrader: (3)

I found my tap. 12mm x 1.25 I'll bring it to work tomorrow. Up to you to remind me juuuusssst in case I forget. I leave at 4pm so gimme a head's up before then.

Philbert

iTrader: (2)

Thanks Dario.

I will be out of town tomorrow and Friday so i can't pick up the tap till Saturdaymorning.

Phil

HighLux

You do not want to use a "tap" you want to use a "thread chaser".

Using a tap to clean head bolt holes is not good. Use the thread chaser as it
less damaging to threads.

Terrys87

iTrader: (1)

On cleaning your Plenum, I spray some oven cleaner inside while at the car wash and let it set a few minutes and then spray out the interior of it. Then get home and use one of them long handled wood brushes to finish cleaning the rest of it out. It takes alot of scrubbing to get that carbon out.

Since you got a good reference pic,pulling the connections isnt anything to be worried about and some of them are going to be plugged as well. The throttle body, I just clean it seperate and pay close attention to not and bump the TPS sensor.

I have fixed several EGR valves without ever replacing one and got them working but since you have to deal with emissions that might could be one reason you might would need to replace with a new one, but the little metal tube usually will need to come off to get clean as that carbon in there can get clogged with carbon and is rock solid I just use a small drill bits and twist them with my fingers. You didnt mention EGR, just giving you a heads up. Also make sure that the metal vacuum line assembly is not plugged.

I just started my 85 Crusher build and tried to show some tips to help on this stage that you are at if you want to see other tips. Cyberhorn posted a link for injector seals. Usually you only get just the rubber seals with a kit. The ebay one has the screens with this kit and is just a dollar or so more then what I get from the parts store. I just ordered it and it wont be here til the 5th of March. I cant remeber if you were going to send your injectors off to witch hunter or not.

What is the gold sensor just infront of your oil filter. Not the oil sending unit but the next one in front of it if you dont mind?
[/QUOTE]

Terrys87

iTrader: (1)

The water pump hose can be a pain to get to when everything is back together and would suggest changing it while you have it out along with the oil seal on the distributor.

Copied...
Parts store will tell you this is a dealer item or they dont stock it. This hose likes to leak coming off of the water pump when it pops a hole. Gates PN#20801, just cut off where my finger is at. Alot cheaper then the dealer.


Here it is cut to length and on. I need to get some new hose clamps to finish the job.


Seal is dry and hardened. Reason for leak. I have a seal for the dizzy cap as well on order for Toyota.


Replaced with a seal from Orielly for .96 cents. The old one will most likely break when you go to remove it. One less oil leak now.


When doing regular maintainace, change the PVC and I change the PVC Grommet as well as it will harden up and wont let the PVC come out or break and fall into the head. I change both out at the same time.

Philbert

iTrader: (2)

Thanks everyone, especially terry for the tips. I have a PCV valve from Toyotapartszone on the way but hadn't thought of the dizzy seal. I think I also ordered the lower hose you mention.

The gold sender is my autometer oil pressure sender. It fits through a sandwich adapter.

So, regarding the tap versus chaser....maybe I should just find a chaser locally instead.

What's the difference in the two kinds that makes it so dangerous to use? I have a tap and die set, and I have used it to "Chase" threads on my truck before - removable hard top bolt holes, seat bolt mount holes, etc - no issues, as long as I'm slow, use oil, etc.

92 TOY

I had a tap, tried using it, didn't like the feel. cleaned the holes really well and then just kept running a bolt in and out a million times until it was coming out clean. I think the most important thing is that there is little or no crud in there so that it doesn't bottom out prematurely. so meticulous small bottle-brush type scrubbing etc etc etc will probably do just fine.

stanprophet

Here is a tip, you can use a cutting wheel and cut a couple of grooves down the length of the old head bolts. You want to try and keep it strait. This will allow you to use one of the old head bolts to chase the threads. Make sure to get out all of the oil and coolant like others have said, but if there is a little left the groove will allow a place for the oil to escape the bottom of the hole. This will tell you if there is any more fluid in the hole that needs to be cleaned out. It will help to avoid cracking the block when the new bolts are installed.

Using a standard auto parts store tap, you are actually cutting more metal from the hole. They are larger than machinist taps.

If you have access to a thread chaser in the proper size and length that is the way to go.

Terrys87

iTrader: (1)

No suggestions on the chaser, I have a friend that has all of special tools and he will loan them when I need one.

On the head bolt holes, I take a air hose and with a shop rag, cover the hole and air gun to catch the splatter. Then I spray brake cleaner and repeat until it is clean, then use a head bolt to chase it real well. If I have a problem, then I borrow from a friend.

The FSM and Haynes both have the head bolts torque to 58 foot punds. It has been updated to 60 something. I take a magic marker and mark each bolt for the torque sequence. It will keep you from getting lost and speeds things up nicely without cutting corners.

First round I go 20, second round I got 40, third round I go 60 and a fourth round I go to 65 foot pounds. Use the clicker type torque wrench. It is alot more accurate and does a better job in my opinion.

The brake cleaner will evaporate and make sure all liquid is out of bottom of hole as mentioned.I have used Qtips in the past. I wipe the surface of the block and head down before installling. Engbldr has some good break in steps. Once or twice a year I retorque the heads just as basic maintaince.

85longbedDave

I"m doing the same thing on my 85 long bed 4x4! I had to have my head welded, because of osmosses. (How ever you spell it.) Now I need it shaved. Hard to do when I"m walking! Should have it done by next week. Mine looked worse than yours. I did use a new oil, and water pump. Also new METAL guide and cover. Bought all off ebay. Hard to do it right on unenjoyment. Make sure your adjustment screws are good on your rocker arms. I'm ordering new ones after I'm done here. $25+free shipping. Of course EBAY!!! 280,000 on my truck! Should of rebuilt the whole thing, but can't afford it. Anyway, thanks for the pictures. (HOPE I REMEMBER HOW TO PUT IT BACK TOGETHER LOL).

Co_94_PU

iTrader: (-1)

failed me was really expecting "site:practicalmachinist.com thread chaser" to turn up some better pictures

A Chaser is fully threaded, compared to the tapered end of a Tap. They will have a half moon or straight edge, compared to a hemi(?) spherical cutting edge of a Tap.

Here is a picture of some lathe "rake type" chasers.

Philbert

iTrader: (2)

Thanks Terry - the air compressor and rag trick was what I was going to try anyway. Will see if I can get a thread chaser this weekend and may even try the old bolt and groove technique.

Dario, not sure if I should borrow your tap at this point??

Co_94_PU

iTrader: (-1)

Tap would be less prone to manufacturer error. eg use a triangle file not a disk grinder if you go with a home made bolt mode, you want it to just flick stuff out of the threads you could wind up with a sharp edge using a grinder.

If you have lots of stuff in the threads or at the bottom you might still want the tap or chaser. My experience, if they're not trashed, just spin the block up side down on the stand and spray with gunk remover and air hose.

gottadog

iTrader: (3)

Well let me know if you want me to leave the tap outside.

Philbert

iTrader: (2)

Thanks Dario, please do leave it still and I'll grab tomorrow. I'm going to go slow on this and if it's not comfortable I'll stop and find the chaser instead. I think the tap could work if I prep everything right first (air compression, etc).

Thanks!