Philbert

iTrader: (2)

Thanks for the nudge!

500 miles after the head install this weekend so I changed the oil, adjusted valves and re torqued the head bolts.

I also took off the tb and re adjusted the throttle stop screw and tps. Idea was to adjust the throttle so that it was a little more open at idle than what 4crawlers site says (adjust till it makes contact with throttle cam, then a quarter turn more.). So, i adjusted it a FULL turn instead of a quarter to see if that would help the cold start stumbling. Long story short, it fired up and sounded great cold. However, when warm, the idle is a tad high, around 1000 rpm. I adjusted the bypass screw as much as possible to lower the idle when warm but it's as low as it will go now. I think my next step would be to readjust the throttle stop screw to one half turn instead if the full turn I have it at now....


In other news, realized the u joint I replaced less than a year ago went kaput....took my driveshaft to the local store where I bought it and the pointed out my yoke is bad, which led to my u joint going out early. So I need to find a local driveshaft place to get it done and balanced...any ideas what this costs and what to look out for when shopping?

I've been driving around in 4wd high since yesterday, essentially in front wheel drive...feels funny

Philbert

iTrader: (2)

950 mile update:

(replaced the main driveshaft with a rebalanced one with new yoke, and 2 new u Joints - sounds great and the "chirping" under load is gone....$229 out the door)

Getting ready to change the oil once more (the second of my 500 mile intervals as part of the cam break in process).

Still haven't revved over 4,000 RPM...waiting till fully broken in.

Still runing the stock AFM as the Supra one I used was getting the door stuck open and throwing codes and running crazy rich (!).

Tightened belts some more - now I don't get squeals over 2500 RPM \

BEEN RUNNING GREAT....but

The idle issue:
As mentioned above, I thought I had adjusted the idle screw too much so that, when warm, the idle was at 1,100 RPM, even with the bypass screw fully closed. So, I adjusted the idle screw another quarter turn or so down (while still in the truck - didn't take it out this time), and I also backed off the dashpot 100% so that it's not affecting the throttle (this is how it was the last 11 years so maybe it helps...). I fired it up, and it starts rough, around 500 RPMs at COLD idle, stumbling. When it warms up, it's dialed in at 750 RPMs and smooth.

So, I'm kind of resigned to this now: Rough, stumbling cold idle, no codes, about same 17 MPG as before, runs great when warm, I get some backfires here and there when I let off throttle after WOT.

I'm kind of at the point where I want to just stop messing with it and enjoy that it runs. I have smog coming up in a couple months so we'll see how that goes.....

mikesta

Forgive me for hijacking your thread... but my ignorance has the best of me. I read through the first 2 pages, but did not find what my brain lacks.

Can you tell me what this pipe is called? I believe it to be a heater pipe and think it attaches to the intake and I need to read up on what to use (gasket/fpig?). I called toyota parts dept here and there diagram shows nothing going there... I'm finding that hard to believe so reaching out to you for expertise!

Thanks in advance

junk4u

iTrader: (1)

I hope you don't mind me trying to help you out here, but I think that is what they call at toyota a Water Heater Inlet Pipe Part #87208-14280, and the FPIG Federal Poverty Income Guidelines...Haha just joking... I believe its an O-ring 96711-24017, I used an o-ring there, but add just a little RTV to make sure it doesn't leak. i hope i'm right, but here's what I am talking about hope its the same that you are thinking about.

Philbert

iTrader: (2)

That's correct!

It's a dealer part and cost like $3 - but you want to get it! I smeared FIPG (also dealer part - totally worth it) on the flange mating surfaces.
It's a real PITA to get that pipe separated, gasket installed, then mated up again, when you have the head on.....doable but patience is a must. I ended up replacing the 2 bolts with studs, threaded them into the bottom of the intake, and used them as guides to slip the pipe flange back on once the o ring was installed. Studs also reduce risk of stripping I believe.

Other thing I learned: if you're replacing the head, make sure you install the EGR cooling plate on the back of the head BEFORE you install the head - that was awful - I snapped a bolt, and replaced the 5 bolts back there with about 2" of space between the head and my firewall.....

mikesta

Wow, you guys really helped an old man out! I spent 2 hours this morning trying to find the name of that pipe in the fsm, message boards etc. I'm going to take your advice on studs too. See what toyota has when I make a trip down there with the part number you gave!!!! I learned the same lesson about that plate in the back. Pulled the engine back out and did it before putting it back in~

junk4u

iTrader: (1)

If you are getting the Toyota FIPG I only know of 2 of them that I read about: here are the Part # for the FIPG that I am aware of:

00295-00103 (seems to to be the most common one)
and
00295-01281

mikesta

Thanks Junk.... I have a tube of that stuff left over from my 1FZ-FE rebuild. Can I ask one more absolutely humiliating question. (stupid question). Where does this fuel(?) line go? I cannot find the male end anywhere (fail).

junk4u

iTrader: (1)

Okay the image you show really doesn't tell me to much. The upper hose that you have lined up there seems to be the AC line, but the one right next to it coming right up along side the firewall is a fuel line that I believe attaches to the regulator on the fuel rail.

junk4u

iTrader: (1)

Okay mikesta, I see you correct the photo. I believe that gets hooked up to the regulator on the fuel rail,

junk4u

iTrader: (1)

Here's a image of the location of the regulator, there's only on port it can connect to size wise.


Hope it helps

mikesta

K guys, thanks so so much, I see that it hooks up to the back of the fuel rail on the engine, the hose loops back to it. ID10T moment over. I'll give you guys credit in my next video... Fail moment over!!

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

Phil! Sup bruva? Hehe. ....

Great to hear she's still rolling strong!

It is not totally unusual for throttle plate in the 27-year-old throttle body to get problems that are hard to diagnose. I'm not saying it's likely but on 22 re: it's one of the easiest things to remove. I'm not sure if you've tried just going back to the factory service recommendations on the throttle linkage stop screw and such... Having a high I like this can sometimes be the idle air control valve. If it gets completely stuck while slightly open, you have a persistent and perpetual problem really, because the end idle air control valve is pulling there from before the throttle plate directly into the plenum near the cold start injector. Just for the heck of it, since those vacuum lines are fairly easy to get to, you could plug both ends on the plenum and throttle body and then try adjusting back to stock but add just a little bit of air at the adjustment screw. The reason you would at a little bit is because even if the idle air control valve is closed it still has a little pin hole in the main plate that allows a tiny bit of constant air through. Factory service manual calls for pitching that front hose off,.... But I highly recommend against this to anyone that has the original vacuum hose on there. They can become very brittle and then pieces inside come loose and then fly where? Yeah, they would wind up in the metallic arm of the idle air control valve, or worse, they would make it through and one that flying into your plenum. You can also pull both ends of and then blow through the front and see when it is fully warm if its allowing a lot of air through.

I still have that stupid warm restart crap going on... Really tired of it. I have resigned to not let it bother me too much since I can't get it to come out of that stumble by just giving it some throttle... But I am NOT resigned to let it go completely. There has to be a cause within the electronic fuel injection system, one of its sensors somewhere or something. I really doubt my problem is the throttle body as it seems to only happened during hot restarts after it's at for like 20 minutes. 5 minutes? Nope. Lol. Has to sit for long enough to do its rumble in the jungle. Whatever it is it's happened through two motors, and now that I think about it, I believe two throttle bodies as well. Slightly different gremlin but pretty much the same feel to the problem.

Sorry, I don't mean to go on regarding my own troubleshooting issues. It's just that some of them are similar. It's odd, Phil. It seems as though by doing the adjustments that you made your problems simply changed a little bit?

I know most people on here don't want to hear this but remember there is always a Toyota guru within some reasonable amount of miles of most of us... And I would guess especially in your neck of the woods being somewhat near Fresno! Lol . Most everyone I've met seems to love the challenge and two of three of them wouldn't even charge me. But they did tell me to leave it for the day so that they could tinker with it on their own time. Now, this time, I had Eric Hansen & Jay King , both fairly respected Toyota technicians, and both fairly baffled by my symptoms. At least this time, for once, it actually acted up in front of someone that I needed to see first hand. But still, they pretty much wind up saying what every other guru I know says: "drive it till it breaks. Then fix it and drive it some more." more than one of them is equally as OCD As I am... and yet they still said that at some point you just have to except for with her personality traits. Hahahahaha. I guess I'm a little more OCD than they are! Something is wrong and I can't stand it. I know its not supposed to run this way, and I absolutely know that there has to be a fix.

I wish you the best, Phil!

Philbert

iTrader: (2)

Thanks Mark! It's running great still...when warm lol.

I am due for my 1,000 mile-post-head-replacement oil change, so I think I'll take care of that, and drain my coolant to remove the TB again, as well as the IACV and check out the innards.

Been snooping around and found some good info with photos on the IACV getting broken internally:
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...oblems-190304/

Hopefully this is it - and it's just "stuck" and needs coaxing to free up - will report back on what I find.

Here are the factors/variables I've identified:
1) Throttle stop screw/actual throttle plate position
2) IACV (letting too much or not enough air in at given times of motor temperature)
3) Throttle adjustment screw (letting too much air in/not enough air in)
4) Vacuum lines (leaks - pretty sure I don't have any as I've done the tests, pinched things off, etc)

Right after I did the head this is what was set up:
- Throttle stop screw adjusted to Roger Brown's specs
- Throttle adjustment screw (the big, flathead screw on TB) was in the middle, and I adjusted it to idle 850 RPM when warm

In this scenario, it stumbled like crazy cold, then idled up to normal when warm

In an attempt to make it idle higher when cold, this is the set up I next tried:
- Throttle stop screw adjusted 1/2 turn MORE OPEN than Roger Brown's guidance - Idea was to let *just a little more* air into the plenum at cold start, to avoid the rough low idle.
- Throttle adjustment screw adjusted down (lowering throttle)

In this scenario, it started great cold, immediately going to 850 RPM....problem was, when warmed up, the idle would creep up to 1100 RPM and stay there - too high

Most recently:
So, with the TB on the truck, I adjusted the throttle stop screw BACK DOWN another 1/4 turn, so it's still about 1/4 turn MORE OPEN than Roger Brown's recommendations. The throttle adjustment screw is adjusted now so that when I start COLD, I idle low, around 500 RPM, and then settle around 850 RPM when warm.


So, here's where I am still confused, logically:
Isn't the COLD engine supposed to idle HIGH, then the idle DROPS once it's warm?! Mine seems to do the opposite. Even if my IACV were not working (read: letting more air in when cold and less when warm), wouldn't my idle stay LOW once the motor is warm, versus rising when warm, like is happening now?

Philbert

iTrader: (2)

Hi guys - just an update:

1) I did my second oil change recently and am now cruising around ~1200 miles later with no apparent issues with the head - no leaks, no codes, and better power...about same fuel economy as before with 32" tires and 4.10 gears - 17 MPG.

The big issue I had was the rough idle at cold start. I jumped in on an existing thread while searching, and found my answer: the Idle Air Control Valve was dead, and not doing its job. The IACV is supposed to let extra air into the manifold when starting cold and at idle. This creates a fast idle until the motor is warmed up, and as the coolant warms up the valve, it closes, letting less air in, and settling the idle down to normal. Mine was not working, and stuck closed, so I was getting little air into the chamber when cold, causing a rough idle. Idled great when warm, but not at cold, since the air going into the system was always the same amount, regardless of temperature.

Here is the thread - Matthew (Thook) helped out a LOT:
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...l#post52102634


The one remaining question mark right now is that, under load (in or out of gear), the motor tends to make a noise that sounds a little like squealing/vibrating. I tightened the belts and checked them again yesterday, along with the pulleys - all seems tight. I'm really not sure what it is. Not sure how to better diagnose or describe it - it's like a fluttering sound tied to RPM.

Ah well, seems to be that all is better now - I have a small leak coming from what I think is the output shaft of the front diff that I need to address next so I don't muck up my driveway any more....

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

Right on man! Thook is a great yota-brother!

How trippy that you have a cold start rumble in the jungle and I have a hot one! Toyo drop me a couple links that I'm going to try and get through a couple more times and see if I can get more info to verify. Apparently on the 87 there were a couple of recalls or swaps or upgrades regarding the cold start injector time switch and coolant temperature sensor. I already have a new coolant temperature sensor from Toyota and yet I'm not sure if they gave me the upgraded version... I would think that that would come up on the computer but I want to make sure just for the heck of it. It's funny because it never gave me any problems before. Now with the new idle air control valve if I don't have great in the morning but as you already know when I restarted warm after sitting for about 20 minutes it runs like it's on 2 cyld & hops all over the place in the engine bay! Lol. One day I'll find out if I have to tear the entire harness apart while doing 3 RZ supercharged swap or something like that! hahaha....

Glad you are getting that result.... Awesome news!

Philbert

iTrader: (2)

Thanks Mark!

That's right, if your motor isn't working right, just swap in a more powerful one lol

Your SAS turned out great - haven't had a chance to follow along as much as I wanted to but will try to in the coming days. Now that I have mine runinng well again, hopefully I can get my act together on my Chevy Spring swap finally!

Thanks again for your help with the coolant temp sensor -that was a key component I needed and made a huge difference!

I also have that 82 Supra AFM on my workbench that I need to diagnose...once I pass smog first though!

Phil