Over heating issues
02-10-2012, 09:42 PM
#21
Registered User
Thread Starter
I am doing the swap because of cost issues. Clutch and fan would run me $180, the v6 rad is going to run me $40. I already have an electric fan and planned to buy a v6 rad, so if I put 100 in a controller and extra wire. Then the efan saves me money
02-11-2012, 07:08 AM
#22
Contributing Member
The E fan works for me because I converted my AC from r12 to r132 by simply replacing the refrigerant fill adapters. Now the system is not as efficient in traffic so I installed the electric fan and wired it to the AC relay so that it is always on when the AC is running. The system has been dependable except for the time a "mechanic" forgot to plug it in when he was done working on the motor. Drove it home with no problem but was not too happy when I saw that and some other bone head things that he forgot.
As far as cooling goes I like being able to accurately control the engine temp. and it is very easy to know if there is a fan problem because I can observe the fan coming on or not. My experience with the stock radiator is that they do a great job of cooling the engine. The only time that my fan comes on is when the truck is hardly moving.
As far as cooling goes I like being able to accurately control the engine temp. and it is very easy to know if there is a fan problem because I can observe the fan coming on or not. My experience with the stock radiator is that they do a great job of cooling the engine. The only time that my fan comes on is when the truck is hardly moving.
02-11-2012, 07:20 AM
#23
Registered User
I just checked on Summit. Lots of different brands of fan control kits -- Painless, Derale, Hayden (the cheapest) so that's a good route to go. Your truck's a manual? Then it should work okay.
02-11-2012, 08:09 AM
#24
Contributing Member
No, not a chance. The main problem is the steering gear box is in the way, the 3.4 rad is much wider. The only way would be to locate the rad somewhere besides the front of the engine. Some desert racers relocate behind the rear window.
Last edited by mt_goat; 02-11-2012 at 08:36 AM.
02-11-2012, 08:17 AM
#25
Contributing Member
I followed the instuctions here (I have a similar dccontroller): http://www.dccontrol.com/fk55.pdf
The advantage to the cool side of the radiator is it allows the natural air flow to do the work first, then if that isn't enough your fan will finsh the job. The air flow at higher speeds is (or should be) considerable and in cooler or moderate climates may be all that is needed.
You could have problems with that location if your controller doesn't have enough range of temp adjustment to adjust to the cool side so ultimately you might have to follow the directions for the controller you use.
The advantage to the cool side of the radiator is it allows the natural air flow to do the work first, then if that isn't enough your fan will finsh the job. The air flow at higher speeds is (or should be) considerable and in cooler or moderate climates may be all that is needed.
You could have problems with that location if your controller doesn't have enough range of temp adjustment to adjust to the cool side so ultimately you might have to follow the directions for the controller you use.
Last edited by mt_goat; 02-11-2012 at 08:35 AM.
02-11-2012, 09:01 AM
#26
Registered User
Thread Starter
02-11-2012, 09:06 AM
#27
Registered User
Thread Starter
I followed the instuctions here (I have a similar dccontroller): http://www.dccontrol.com/fk55.pdf
The advantage to the cool side of the radiator is it allows the natural air flow to do the work first, then if that isn't enough your fan will finsh the job. The air flow at higher speeds is (or should be) considerable and in cooler or moderate climates may be all that is needed.
You could have problems with that location if your controller doesn't have enough range of temp adjustment to adjust to the cool side so ultimately you might have to follow the directions for the controller you use.
The advantage to the cool side of the radiator is it allows the natural air flow to do the work first, then if that isn't enough your fan will finsh the job. The air flow at higher speeds is (or should be) considerable and in cooler or moderate climates may be all that is needed.
You could have problems with that location if your controller doesn't have enough range of temp adjustment to adjust to the cool side so ultimately you might have to follow the directions for the controller you use.
02-11-2012, 09:38 AM
#28
Contributing Member
The advantage to the cool side of the radiator is it allows the natural air flow to do the work first, then if that isn't enough your fan will finish the job. The air flow at higher speeds is (or should be) considerable and in cooler or moderate climates may be all that is needed.
The stock radiator is sufficient and will fit everything you have and save you some money and time. I have an aluminum radiator that works fine, but someone else may have an opinion on brass. I think that the aluminum is cheaper because my priorities when I bought it were that i wanted it fast and cheap.
Last edited by Buck87; 02-11-2012 at 09:42 AM.
02-11-2012, 09:44 AM
#29
Contributing Member
Isnt the DC variable speed? The only reason I dont have one of theirs is that in my experience their customer service sucks.
Top of the radiator is the cool side.
Top of the radiator is the cool side.
Last edited by Buck87; 02-11-2012 at 09:47 AM.
02-11-2012, 09:56 AM
#30
Registered User
http://www.google.com/products/catal...ed=0CDsQ8wIwAg
This is what I use. You don't want one that goes into the fins of the radiator. Sure they work,but they can't be that accurate,and we've had a few people bring they're radiator in to have a tube repaired because the probe eventually rubbed a hole in the side of the tubes.
This is what I use. You don't want one that goes into the fins of the radiator. Sure they work,but they can't be that accurate,and we've had a few people bring they're radiator in to have a tube repaired because the probe eventually rubbed a hole in the side of the tubes.
02-11-2012, 11:26 AM
#31
Registered User
Thread Starter
http://www.google.com/products/catal...ed=0CDsQ8wIwAg
This is what I use. You don't want one that goes into the fins of the radiator. Sure they work,but they can't be that accurate,and we've had a few people bring they're radiator in to have a tube repaired because the probe eventually rubbed a hole in the side of the tubes.
This is what I use. You don't want one that goes into the fins of the radiator. Sure they work,but they can't be that accurate,and we've had a few people bring they're radiator in to have a tube repaired because the probe eventually rubbed a hole in the side of the tubes.
02-11-2012, 11:31 AM
#32
Registered User
Thread Starter
Agreed,
The stock radiator is sufficient and will fit everything you have and save you some money and time. I have an aluminum radiator that works fine, but someone else may have an opinion on brass. I think that the aluminum is cheaper because my priorities when I bought it were that i wanted it fast and cheap.
The stock radiator is sufficient and will fit everything you have and save you some money and time. I have an aluminum radiator that works fine, but someone else may have an opinion on brass. I think that the aluminum is cheaper because my priorities when I bought it were that i wanted it fast and cheap.
. But it's mine now and why not go with the slightly larger 3.0 rad
02-11-2012, 11:32 AM
#33
Registered User
Thread Starter
they might be but the only one I could find on their site was $144, and I could buy a Flex-a-lite for a little under $100
02-11-2012, 11:43 AM
#34
Contributing Member
I found DC to be very helpful with my questions and service was great, but I know there have been times that he has been so swamped he actually had to stop taking orders and almost shut down to catch up. So I'm sure customer service seemed bad during those times. Its bound to happen when you have a quality product, hand made and in high demand. The alternative is mass production in China
02-11-2012, 11:47 AM
#35
Contributing Member
02-11-2012, 11:54 AM
#36
Registered User
Thread Starter
02-12-2012, 09:11 AM
#37
Registered User
Just get the spal,trust me. High quality,good price,and all the ones me and my friends have been using still work flawlessly. As far as where to put the sender......You need to to find a spot on the motor to adapt in to,or do what I do. The kit comes with a stainless steel threaded adapter bung (hehe,bung). I took that to the parts store and matched it up with a brass one so I could silver solder it into the tank on my radiator,so that means you need a copper/brass radiator to do that,none of that plastic/aluminum crap. I work at a radiator shop and do this stuff every day so I know what I'm doing so if you go this route take it to a good radiator repair shop to have it done. It could also be soft soldered (lead solder) in ,but silver soldered is much stronger and you don't have to worry about the solder deteriorating over time and leaking (or failing all the way and come out).
02-12-2012, 04:06 PM
#39
Registered User
Or petcock 
Working at a radiator shop the past 12 years you'd think it would be easy to get over those words by now. Every time a customer explains " I need a new bung with a new petcock in it" It's still hard for me to keep a straight face.
Working at a radiator shop the past 12 years you'd think it would be easy to get over those words by now. Every time a customer explains " I need a new bung with a new petcock in it" It's still hard for me to keep a straight face.
02-12-2012, 07:28 PM
#40
Registered User
Thread Starter
Just get the spal,trust me. High quality,good price,and all the ones me and my friends have been using still work flawlessly. As far as where to put the sender......You need to to find a spot on the motor to adapt in to,or do what I do. The kit comes with a stainless steel threaded adapter bung (hehe,bung). I took that to the parts store and matched it up with a brass one so I could silver solder it into the tank on my radiator,so that means you need a copper/brass radiator to do that,none of that plastic/aluminum crap. I work at a radiator shop and do this stuff every day so I know what I'm doing so if you go this route take it to a good radiator repair shop to have it done. It could also be soft soldered (lead solder) in ,but silver soldered is much stronger and you don't have to worry about the solder deteriorating over time and leaking (or failing all the way and come out).
