Ongoing 22RE issue, Only the Greatest of mind should enter here!! :)
02-02-2012, 07:32 AM
#21
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I have the same problem, new motor 11K on it, I've checked, re-checked, and quadruple checked the timing, egr, vacuum lines, leaks, etc. I also replaced every sensor and every ignition component on the engine, including a brand new distributor.
If I don't get it fixed soon I'm going to drive this truck off a cliff.
If I don't get it fixed soon I'm going to drive this truck off a cliff.
02-02-2012, 07:32 AM
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The ECU is adjusting timing because of the data the Knock Sensor is providing. Knock sensors are typically tuned to the frequency range of 7khz. Since the behavior is greatly diminished or gone altogether when the KS is unplugged, I'd start hunting for a short in that wiring. All it would take is for the KS wire to short to ground or similar and viola! 6-8khz is introduced and timing alterations begin...
And yes. Codes can be present even though the CEL is not on.
And yes. Codes can be present even though the CEL is not on.
02-02-2012, 11:13 AM
#23
I have the same problem, new motor 11K on it, I've checked, re-checked, and quadruple checked the timing, egr, vacuum lines, leaks, etc. I also replaced every sensor and every ignition component on the engine, including a brand new distributor.
If I don't get it fixed soon I'm going to drive this truck off a cliff.
If I don't get it fixed soon I'm going to drive this truck off a cliff.
02-02-2012, 12:09 PM
#25
Good point, I have tried two Toyota distributors and I am now currently running a Rich Porter that I purchased from LCE. No change no matter what distributor I run.
Last edited by xylicon; 02-02-2012 at 12:11 PM.
02-02-2012, 01:05 PM
#26
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I can only give you my experiance- My chevy 4x4 runs a TPI modded 350 with Mahle forged pistons, roller cam and Crower full roller rockers- all high quality brands. It gives the computer fits and I even put in the 'best' esc filter for noisier engines. It retards like crazy and I had to get another knock sensor mount it away from the block and ground it so the ecu doesn't 'hear' anything but thinks the sensor is working- the performance came back until I can further tune the ecm or look into the problem, I've been told the computer may also pick up failing bearings before the knock is audible. Each knock sensor in very specific to the engine configuration and at least the GM ones seem to get more sensitve as they age- which is not a good thing.
02-02-2012, 07:52 PM
#27
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How is your o2 sensor? The o2 sensor takes a reading from the exhaust and corrects the fuel trim to make it run not to rich and not too lean. I have seen non OEM (bosch) o2 sensors that don't heat up enough or do not stick into the exhaust far enough to provide accurate data back to the ecu.
I know you said there is not a check engine light, but a lot of the times the light won't light up, but there are codes in there.
I would also check your fuel pressure at the fuel rail. Just put a guage in the port for the fuel pressure regulator and see what your getting.
I know you said there is not a check engine light, but a lot of the times the light won't light up, but there are codes in there.
I would also check your fuel pressure at the fuel rail. Just put a guage in the port for the fuel pressure regulator and see what your getting.
02-02-2012, 07:54 PM
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As in you've checked the EGR valve, or the PO told you it's working fine?
When you apply vacuum at idle, it should kill or nearly kill the engine. It's possible for the valve to work fine, but the passages to get gummed up. I know on the 22Rs, the sharp downturn in the pipe into the intake likes to carbon shut, even thought the valve itself is fine. I seem to recall the -REs have a fairly sharp turn into the back of the intake?
When you apply vacuum at idle, it should kill or nearly kill the engine. It's possible for the valve to work fine, but the passages to get gummed up. I know on the 22Rs, the sharp downturn in the pipe into the intake likes to carbon shut, even thought the valve itself is fine. I seem to recall the -REs have a fairly sharp turn into the back of the intake?
02-02-2012, 07:58 PM
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02-02-2012, 08:01 PM
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I have the same problem, new motor 11K on it, I've checked, re-checked, and quadruple checked the timing, egr, vacuum lines, leaks, etc. I also replaced every sensor and every ignition component on the engine, including a brand new distributor.
If I don't get it fixed soon I'm going to drive this truck off a cliff.
If I don't get it fixed soon I'm going to drive this truck off a cliff.
02-02-2012, 08:04 PM
#32
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The ECU is adjusting timing because of the data the Knock Sensor is providing. Knock sensors are typically tuned to the frequency range of 7khz. Since the behavior is greatly diminished or gone altogether when the KS is unplugged, I'd start hunting for a short in that wiring. All it would take is for the KS wire to short to ground or similar and viola! 6-8khz is introduced and timing alterations begin...
And yes. Codes can be present even though the CEL is not on.
And yes. Codes can be present even though the CEL is not on.
02-02-2012, 08:05 PM
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02-02-2012, 08:10 PM
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02-02-2012, 08:13 PM
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I will be testing fuel pressure or just replacing the fuel pressure regulator. If anyone has a fuel tester built for this I would love to borrow or rent it.
Thanks for all the suggestions I will keep you posted.
Thanks for all the suggestions I will keep you posted.
02-03-2012, 05:56 AM
#37
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Unplugging the NS works because the ECU is now seeing a fault with NS and going into limp mode by retarding the timing to what it thinks is a safe value to prevent pinging.
BTW, are you sure you're running the right heat range for the plugs? Having too hot a plug will cause problems also.
02-03-2012, 07:03 AM
#38
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...I'm No expert, But Since I've been having the same problem with my 93' with 134K, AND I'd recently adjusted the Valves... I think the EGR is a valid explanation.
I started running higher Octane fuel to see if i could rectify the problem, and wouldn't you know it, it decreased So, I hate to add to the group of similar insistence, but that's why I'd go with, mon.
I started running higher Octane fuel to see if i could rectify the problem, and wouldn't you know it, it decreased So, I hate to add to the group of similar insistence, but that's why I'd go with, mon.
02-03-2012, 07:57 AM
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It's likely because the EGR is blocked that it's pinging. There's an obstruction in the EGR system or the EGR valve is not opening when it should. The EGR valve is there to increase the apparent octane of the fuel and to reduce the combustion temperatures.
Unplugging the NS works because the ECU is now seeing a fault with NS and going into limp mode by retarding the timing to what it thinks is a safe value to prevent pinging.
BTW, are you sure you're running the right heat range for the plugs? Having too hot a plug will cause problems also.
Unplugging the NS works because the ECU is now seeing a fault with NS and going into limp mode by retarding the timing to what it thinks is a safe value to prevent pinging.
BTW, are you sure you're running the right heat range for the plugs? Having too hot a plug will cause problems also.
